Motor heat

[Volt_Ampere]

Heat generated inside the motor is almost all from Armature Amps * Armature resistance. Bad brushes increase the Armature Resistance and therefor you get more heat. Better motors have larger brushes with more contact area to reduce the heating.

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by Clemsoncartguy

Why don't they make fins into the case?

PQ will add cooling fins for about $100.
http://www.plumquick.com/motors-and-...-cooling-fins/

I have no info about how effective they are.

[skipsmith521]

EMP can put a temperature sensor inside the motor to alert you to overheat.

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk

[scottyb]

D&D can do these things too, Thermostat and vented street motors that dissipate heat.
It costs extra but you guys might benefit.

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by Helirich

I've wondered about rough brushes/commutator making heat. But I would think the cart would not preform well if they were all grooved up.

I've always heard 140 is as hot as you can hold your hand on. I agree that is subjective. But mine was way hotter than that.

Poor brush/commutator contact causes arcing and arcing generates heat as well as pitting and grooving.

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The threshold of perception of temperature varies greatly among individuals, as does the temperature required to produce first degree burns (Reddening of the skin) with a 0.5 second contact. When I was a practicing Clinical Engineer, I read the ANSI/ISO standards on the subject and they read like prenuptial contracts between politicians with law degrees in opposing political parties.

[Helirich]

Originally Posted by JohnnieB

PQ will add cooling fins for about $100.
http://www.plumquick.com/motors-and-...-cooling-fins/

I have no info about how effective they are.

That's interesting. Looking at the pic, it would be eazy to do myself. (If that outside case comes off eazy) I was thinking they need fins cast into the aluminum end where the rpm sensor is. That aluminum gets really hot.

Originally Posted by scottyb

D&D can do these things too, Thermostat and vented street motors that dissipate heat.
It costs extra but you guys might benefit.

Vented is probably really effective, but I'm guessing they call it "street" because they don't want you splashing in the mud with it. LOL What would work the best is a vent with a fan on the end of the motor.

I just ordered some temp tape. I'm hoping that it's not that hot and I'm worried for nothing.

[Clemsoncartguy]

Wouldn't it be easier to hit it with an infrared gun after a long ride to see temp as it will be hottest then

[Volt_Ampere]

I added a temperature probe to my monitoring system after I installed my new D&D motor and I was very happy to see that the new motor isn't running hot at all. My stock Hitachi motor was running much hotter and it eventually cooked. I have an ambient temperature probe too so my readout includes both temps.

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by Volt_Ampere

I added a temperature probe to my monitoring system after I installed my new D&D motor and I was very happy to see that the new motor isn't running hot at all. My stock Hitachi motor was running much hotter and it eventually cooked. I have an ambient temperature probe too so my readout includes both temps.

Are you running a Series or a SepEx drive?

What gadget(s) are you using for temperature monitoring?

I'm using a thermocouple plugged into a DMM and the lead-wire is relatively short, so I have to leave the DMM in the sweater basket. I want to install a readout so I can see it without twisting my head around.

I have a panel that fits in the ball holder that is blank except for a lighter outlet and will probably surface mount the readout on it so it can be easily removed to change batteries.

[Volt_Ampere]

SepEx - Yamaha YDRE, Lithium batteries, D&D motor, Alltrax XCT 500A controller.

I built my own Audrino based monitoring system with a 20 char by 4 line display. I use temperature probes that transmit digital signals to the Audrino. My monitor also displays date and time, Speed in MPH, Battery Volts and Current and SOC%. I have another screen that displays the individual battery voltages (14 of them)

The temperature probes use a solid state sensor. (DS18B20) These things are nice and accurate and they have their own A/D converter. They talk on a "one wire" interface.