DCX 600 amp to 400 amp

Williamcj1992 · 08-22-2016, 08:52 PM

Hey everyone. I recently bought a 1996 EZGO that was completely redone by bad boy buggee in 2002. Shortly after purchasing, I started having problems with the batteries and the DCX 600 AMP controller that was in it. After a long talk with the guys at Gold Cart Kings, I was informed that it was okay to go back with a DCX 400 AMP controller and high performance solenoid. I got the new controller in the mail the other day and installed it and the solenoid and everything seemed to be working fine. My wife and I got on it today and rode it around the yard a few times, about half throttle when suddenly I lost almost all battery power. Then I parked the cart and went to flip the kill switch so i could charge it, when I noticed a burning smell and the controller was too hot to touch. Thr light on thr controller is still solid green, so it is not throwing any codes. Just wondering if anyone has had any experience or knowledge of this problem. If so, any info would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

scottyb · 08-23-2016, 07:14 AM

Welcome to BGW
My first thought is the DCX control has been phased out and out of production. A much better choice would have been the newer XCT48400 control.
It sounds like this new DCX has failed. The big question is why. Was it simply over heated & over taxed? Or is the motor shorted out and now killed it's second control?
You can remove the 4 cables from the motor (after tagging them) and check for unwanted continuity (a short). When testing you should have continuity between F1 and F2 (give us the reading here) and you should have continuity between A1 and A2 but no continuity between any F and any A terminal.

I don't know much about these carts as they never were popular on the west coast and the manufacture never was forthcoming with wire diagrams etc.

Williamcj1992 · 08-23-2016, 08:59 AM

Thank you for your input, i will test the motor when i get off work.

cgtech · 08-23-2016, 09:08 AM

i always suggest removing and inspecting any motor involved in a controller failure. that way you can catch it, if its bad, before it can kill another controller. since we are on dead controller #2, i feel now might be a great time to inspect that motor.

scottyb · 08-23-2016, 09:15 AM

Good advice. Also note the XCT control has reverse polarity protection on the input and output which means with a more up to date control this didn't have to happen.

Williamcj1992 · 08-23-2016, 11:49 AM

Is it possible i caught it before it burned the controller, since the LED is still solid green?

scottyb · 08-23-2016, 01:39 PM

Does (the controller LED aka) the light turn off when the key is off?
Does the light blink 4 times green and go solid green when you turn on the key and try to go?

Williamcj1992 · 08-23-2016, 01:59 PM

When the key is off, the LED is off. When i cut the key on the LED blinks then goes solid green, im not sure how many times it bblinks.

scottyb · 08-23-2016, 04:49 PM

It seems it's indicating it survived.... especially if the cart will more. But.... Somethings wrong.

Williamcj1992 · 08-23-2016, 06:54 PM

In just checked for continuity, i have continuity from F1 to F2 and from A1 to A2. When i go across F to A i do not have continuity. But it does seem like i have a bad connection its not a solid deep from F1 to F2, it cuts in nd out!

08-22-2016, 08:52 PM	#1
Williamcj1992 Not Yet Wild Join Date: Aug 2016 Location: SC Posts: 7	DCX 600 amp to 400 amp Hey everyone. I recently bought a 1996 EZGO that was completely redone by bad boy buggee in 2002. Shortly after purchasing, I started having problems with the batteries and the DCX 600 AMP controller that was in it. After a long talk with the guys at Gold Cart Kings, I was informed that it was okay to go back with a DCX 400 AMP controller and high performance solenoid. I got the new controller in the mail the other day and installed it and the solenoid and everything seemed to be working fine. My wife and I got on it today and rode it around the yard a few times, about half throttle when suddenly I lost almost all battery power. Then I parked the cart and went to flip the kill switch so i could charge it, when I noticed a burning smell and the controller was too hot to touch. Thr light on thr controller is still solid green, so it is not throwing any codes. Just wondering if anyone has had any experience or knowledge of this problem. If so, any info would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

08-23-2016, 08:59 AM	#3
Williamcj1992 Not Yet Wild Join Date: Aug 2016 Location: SC Posts: 7	Re: DCX 600 amp to 400 amp Thank you for your input, i will test the motor when i get off work.

08-23-2016, 09:08 AM	#4
cgtech Over This Interview Is... Join Date: Jun 2012 Location: AZ Posts: 17,449	Re: DCX 600 amp to 400 amp i always suggest removing and inspecting any motor involved in a controller failure. that way you can catch it, if its bad, before it can kill another controller. since we are on dead controller #2, i feel now might be a great time to inspect that motor.

08-23-2016, 09:15 AM	#5
scottyb Happy Carting Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Southern California Posts: 73,417	Re: DCX 600 amp to 400 amp Good advice. Also note the XCT control has reverse polarity protection on the input and output which means with a more up to date control this didn't have to happen.

08-23-2016, 11:49 AM	#6
Williamcj1992 Not Yet Wild Join Date: Aug 2016 Location: SC Posts: 7	Re: DCX 600 amp to 400 amp Is it possible i caught it before it burned the controller, since the LED is still solid green?

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08-23-2016, 07:14 AM	#2
scottyb Happy Carting Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Southern California Posts: 73,417	Re: DCX 600 amp to 400 amp Welcome to BGW My first thought is the DCX control has been phased out and out of production. A much better choice would have been the newer XCT48400 control. It sounds like this new DCX has failed. The big question is why. Was it simply over heated & over taxed? Or is the motor shorted out and now killed it's second control? You can remove the 4 cables from the motor (after tagging them) and check for unwanted continuity (a short). When testing you should have continuity between F1 and F2 (give us the reading here) and you should have continuity between A1 and A2 but no continuity between any F and any A terminal. I don't know much about these carts as they never were popular on the west coast and the manufacture never was forthcoming with wire diagrams etc.

08-23-2016, 01:39 PM	#7
scottyb Happy Carting Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Southern California Posts: 73,417	Re: DCX 600 amp to 400 amp Does (the controller LED aka) the light turn off when the key is off? Does the light blink 4 times green and go solid green when you turn on the key and try to go?

08-23-2016, 01:59 PM	#8
Williamcj1992 Not Yet Wild Join Date: Aug 2016 Location: SC Posts: 7	Re: DCX 600 amp to 400 amp When the key is off, the LED is off. When i cut the key on the LED blinks then goes solid green, im not sure how many times it bblinks.

08-23-2016, 04:49 PM	#9
scottyb Happy Carting Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Southern California Posts: 73,417	Re: DCX 600 amp to 400 amp It seems it's indicating it survived.... especially if the cart will more. But.... Somethings wrong.

08-23-2016, 06:54 PM	#10
Williamcj1992 Not Yet Wild Join Date: Aug 2016 Location: SC Posts: 7	Re: DCX 600 amp to 400 amp In just checked for continuity, i have continuity from F1 to F2 and from A1 to A2. When i go across F to A i do not have continuity. But it does seem like i have a bad connection its not a solid deep from F1 to F2, it cuts in nd out!