rxv problems, side question: are they the worst cart ever made?

[CustomGolfCartGuy]

we have 3 rxvs here at the shop and they are just constantly having problems. we work on 6-7 carts a week along with customization and the only ones we consistanly have problems with are the rxv's. we just ordered a 700 dollar diagnostic tool specficly for this model of cart, which just seems ridiculous, but ive read that the diagnostic tool doesnt always figure the problem so while im waiting for it to get here i figured i would run my problems through this fourmn. ive done lots of searching on here but havent got my answer yet so here it goes.

cart 1.
brake locks up at random, sometimes at full speed sometimes 10 feet after you move from a stop. it has had 2 new electric brakes in and is in now because the 2nd replacement it bad. obviously this cant be a brake problem if it is going out that often, it has had the solinoid replaced and has newer batterys/cables.

cart 2.
brake locks instanly when the pedal is hit. never moves just clicks and locks up, wont even unlock when its in tow. you have to disconnect power to have the brake release. new solinoid and new brake didnt fix it.

cart 3.
the brake chatters at speed. like someone pushing the brake pedal 10 times quickly while driving. we havent replaced anyhting on this cart

any help or thoughts from rxv experts would be great. thanks

[BobBoyce]

Originally Posted by caseyscustoms

we have 3 rxvs here at the shop and they are just constantly having problems. we work on 6-7 carts a week along with customization and the only ones we consistanly have problems with are the rxv's. we just ordered a 700 dollar diagnostic tool specficly for this model of cart, which just seems ridiculous, but ive read that the diagnostic tool doesnt always figure the problem so while im waiting for it to get here i figured i would run my problems through this fourmn. ive done lots of searching on here but havent got my answer yet so here it goes.

cart 1.
brake locks up at random, sometimes at full speed sometimes 10 feet after you move from a stop. it has had 2 new electric brakes in and is in now because the 2nd replacement it bad. obviously this cant be a brake problem if it is going out that often, it has had the solinoid replaced and has newer batterys/cables.

cart 2.
brake locks instanly when the pedal is hit. never moves just clicks and locks up, wont even unlock when its in tow. you have to disconnect power to have the brake release. new solinoid and new brake didnt fix it.

cart 3.
the brake chatters at speed. like someone pushing the brake pedal 10 times quickly while driving. we havent replaced anyhting on this cart

any help or thoughts from rxv experts would be great. thanks

What years are the vehicles? Things are a bit different between the Danaher controller and the Curtis controller versions of the RXV.

RXVs are known for corrosion issues in the wiring harness. The brake circuit is most problematic in that it's not just a few wires involved. The negative from the controller is routed to the cupholder area, through the CANBus socket under the cupholder, through the Run Plug, through Harness connectors #1 and #2, then on to the motor brake connector. The positive from the fused circuit is routed to the cupholder area, through the CANBus socket, through the Run Plug, through Harness connectors #1 and #2, through the normally closed contacts of the brake switch, then to the motor brake connector.

The controller Brake FET is limited to 3 amps, beyond that will indicate EM Brake OC (overcurrent) and shut it down. An open circuit condition within the brake loop will indicate EM Brake Missing and shut it down. Brake coil resistance much out of range will cause a variety of errors, depending upon which direction it is from acceptable range. Too low of a resistance will sometimes pass if it's right on the edge of the range, then as coil current heats up the coil it shifts to out of range and intermittent brake lockup occurs. The Curtis controller also monitors the brake loop on the positive side, so double the chances or an error being detected.

As if this is not enough, the controller is extremely sensitive to electrical noise and glitches. The memory within the controller is known to corrupt, requiring the controller to be reset back to factory specs. Any time power is to be removed or reconnected to the controller or the cart in general, it is recommended to switch the run/tow switch to tow first.

I have had to reflash controllers to factory stock several times, and I have sent files to others with the right programmers to allow them to do the same. E-Z-GOs out-of-warranty solution is to have customers send their corrupted controllers to FSIP.

I am an OEM for a different class of vehicles and have had to deal with Curtis controller issues for years.

Bob

[CustomGolfCartGuy]

these are all danaher controllers, because i have a curtis diagnostic tool. ill get the years for you in a bit. sounds like lots of corrosion spots to check.

[CustomGolfCartGuy]

waiting another week before the tool will get here, bobboyce how many controllers have you had to replace? is it common is what im asking?

[rabbitreborn]

I can't speak for Bob, but I have done a few of the Danaher in the past. Mostly in the 2008 and early 2009 models when they were extremely buggy......

20010 to 2012 seemed to have most of the buggyness worked out.

Since they went to the Curtis controller in 2012, I have only changed out maybe 2 controllers. They seem to hold up a lot better overall.

[BobBoyce]

Originally Posted by caseyscustoms

waiting another week before the tool will get here, bobboyce how many controllers have you had to replace? is it common is what im asking?

I've only had to replace one controller, and that was a brand new Curtis controller that was defective from the start. E-Z-GO had sent it to a dealer to install in a 2Five that was having a few issues, and they still had issues after that. I have partial reflashed or totally cloned literally dozens of Curtis controllers that had the memory corrupted by not safing the controller before disconnecting or connecting battery power. It is not a common occurance, but if you figure out just how many Curtis controllers are in use, even a small percentage can add up in numbers. My only issue with Curtis is with their tendency to keep too much information proprietary, not with the quality or performance of their controllers. I understand the reasons for this proprietary treatment. However, it tends to tick off customers that own EVs with Curtis controllers when they have to spend so much on hardware and software to be able to tweak their own settings. Curtis is trying to protect the interests of OEMs that use their controllers in products sold. I get that, but I feel that position hurts their market position to not have a line of pin-compatible open source supported controllers for the EV market.

Bob

[cgtech]

Danaher controller has been very reliable, only a few over the years. The harness, sensors, & brake have been a different story.

[CustomGolfCartGuy]

i ran the numebrs and they are 2010 and 2011's.

[CustomGolfCartGuy]

Originally Posted by cgtech

Danaher controller has been very reliable, only a few over the years. The harness, sensors, & brake have been a different story.

thats surprising ive heard the opposite. danahers are garbage i was told

[rabbitreborn]

I think people are calling them garbage because of the failure rate compared to the Curtis. What they aren't considering is that most of them fail because of outside influences like corroded harness or motor issues. I don't think I have replaced a single one that didn't also have either a harness or a motor replaced at the same time.