best place for controllers for rxvs?

[CustomGolfCartGuy]

Originally Posted by scottyb

Is the OP looking for Curtis or Danher

danaher is what is in it. i want to convert to curtis but i dont know if the customer is going to want to pay the extra labor ect ect.

[scottyb]

The Curtis control is considerably less expensive which could pay for labor.

[rabbitreborn]

Originally Posted by scottyb

The Curtis control is considerably less expensive which could pay for labor.

not to mention much more readily available.......

[usgicollector]

Originally Posted by BobBoyce

I have a supplier for brand new 2016 date code Curtis 1206AC-5211 controller packages for just under $500 shipped. You would need to convert the existing 23 pin Danaher harness to the 35 pin Curtis connector to use them though. I've done it and it's not too hard. most of the wires will move over directly to the new connector, and you have to unbond 2 wires (a +5V and a gnd) and extend them to the Curtis connector. These were from the E-Z-GO assembly line so they include the mounts, resistor, and resistor mount already attached to the controller/heat sink assy.

Bob

Here is a price drop on the controller Bob is talking about. If the bad Danaher controllers can be switched over to these new Curtis 1206AC 5211 controller that would be the way to go. Maybe Bob can teach us exactly what has to be done in order to do this. I would be very interested in learning this...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Brand-new-ez...0AAOSwqfNXj3FS

[BobBoyce]

Originally Posted by usgicollector

Here is a price drop on the controller Bob is talking about. If the bad Danaher controllers can be switched over to these new Curtis 1206AC 5211 controller that would be the way to go. Maybe Bob can teach us exactly what has to be done in order to do this. I would be very interested in learning this...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Brand-new-ez...0AAOSwqfNXj3FS

Wow, he dropped the price even further! I posted what was required to do the conversion a few weeks ago in another thread. Like I mentioned, it's not difficult.

Bob

[CustomGolfCartGuy]

fsip has them for 481 with core but i can buy it from fsip on their ebay page for 525 and i can keep the core. is a bad danaher controller worth anyhting? i know the core is 350 bucks but that doesnt mean its worth that

[rabbitreborn]

FSIP is currently paying $25 for Danher cores...... total rip off if you ask me.

[CustomGolfCartGuy]

Originally Posted by rabbitreborn

FSIP is currently paying $25 for Danher cores...... total rip off if you ask me.

i was curious, i figured it wouldnt be much. i will just get the 481 through the company and not mess with ebay. thanks man

[BobBoyce]

Originally Posted by usgicollector

Here is a price drop on the controller Bob is talking about. If the bad Danaher controllers can be switched over to these new Curtis 1206AC 5211 controller that would be the way to go. Maybe Bob can teach us exactly what has to be done in order to do this. I would be very interested in learning this...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Brand-new-ez...0AAOSwqfNXj3FS

I looked back and found my post on this, recopying it here just in case anyone needs the information...

If you want to do this, you need to follow the orange and black wires back into the harness, from the motor speed encoder connector, to where each of them is spliced to other orange and black wires in the harness. The green/black wire from the temperature sensor stays bonded to the black wire from the motor speed encoder. Once you follow the wires until they end where they bond to other orange and black wires, you would cut them loose, and tape up those cut ends where the wires were connected. You may need to extend these two wires a little to reach the controller connector.

The orange wire connects to the Curtis connector, pin 26.
The black wire with the green/black wire bonded connects to the Curtis connector, pin 7.
The rest of the wires will be moved over from the 23 pin Danaher connector to the 35 pin Curtis connector, in the following order.

Danaher pin, move to, Curtis pin, wire color, Function
pin 1, pin 1, red, switched +48V
pin 2, pin 5, black, CAN Bus, pin 4
pin 3, pin 15, orange, throttle/brake encoder +5V
pin 4, pin 18, black, throttle/brake encoder ground
pin 5, pin 31, blue/white, motor speed encoder
pin 6, pin 32, white, motor speed encoder
pin 7, pin 17, light green, brake encoder output
pin 8, pin 20, black/white, CAN Bus, pin 9
pin 9, pin 16, yellow, throttle encoder output
pin 10, pin 2, black, reverse buzzer -
pin 11, pin 30, grey, SOC meter +0-5V out
pin 12, pin 22, green, key switch, reverse
pin 13, pin 10, black, tow switch
pin 14, not used, grey, resistor lead, not used
pin 15, pin 35, orange/red, Can Bus, pin 5
pin 16, pin 8, pink, temp sensor output
pin 17, pin 11, light blue, charger receptacle
pin 18, pin 6, black, solenoid coil -
pin 19, pin 9, light blue, throttle switch
pin 20, pin 33, white, key switch, forward
pin 21, not used, purple/white, resistor control, not used
pin 22, pin 4, purple, brake lights
pin 23, pin 23, red/white, CAN Bus, pin 3

One circuit left to move. The white wire from the EM brake connector runs to the brake switch. The other brake switch wire is red. Attach a wire to the white wire, and run it to the Curtis connector, pin 12. This applies the EM brake when the brake pedal is pressed beyond a set point.

Bob

[usgicollector]

Thanks Bob copied this down and put it in a file for future reference.