txt series no power

[boatn]

The other night I turned it off ,it had run fine. it Had 36.2 volts , it has a meter on the dash. The next morning when I turned it on it read 15-16 volts and started dropping,it seemed to stabilize at 8v. I checked the batteries at the +,- terminlas with a dvm 36.2v . The next day the meter did not light up,checked the+,- 36.2v. Thought the key switch ,has low resitance.
I dont know where to go I am hopping you will know what the problem is or direct me to diagnostic flow chart.
I have chased shorts and broken cables in the past but this has me stumped

[bird6246]

what is your voltage at the key switch? start there. if you have 36 going in do you have it coming out. Does the state of charge meter use ignition source to turn on, or does it stay on all the time?

[boatn]

the meter is wired at the key switch with a ground wire to the battery. there is a green and blue wire to the switch. the blue wire goes to the speed controller, twirly thing with the copper contacts right? and the green wire goes to the big black box with a cover. I checked continuity on both wires,ok. If the batteries read 36v at the post they are not dead? the dropping voltage on the dash meter is what I dont understand. I am going away for the weekend and wont be able to check v at the switch till monday

[Sir Nuke]

well for starters.....if your batteries are registering 36.2v they are at 50% charge and considered DEAD. and when you can in the night before you should have plugged in the cart for charging. Here is a chart for golf cart charge voltages.....at a full charge (100%) your pack should be reading 38.3v

JohnnieB's SoC Chart.JPG

[boatn]

I know the batteries are low. the state of charge meter is wired to the ignition switch an does not light up at all. I am getting 36.2 volts at the key switch if I put the meter probe on the +post of the battery. The twirly thing I referd to earlier was the f/r switch.

[Sir Nuke]

have you charged yup your pack since you when away fro the weekend? hopefully so.....

have you checked the actual ign. switch? to see if you have high resistance there, or even continuity? your problem may be the switch. with the pack charged up, you could "hot wire" (take the ing. switch out of the loop) the cart to see if everything will run and function as of they switch was here and ON.

[boatn]

Got it running. Had a local guy come look at it he showed me how to load test the batteries,fine. and jumped from the battery + to the solenoid and i had life. I printed out the service manual in the sticky section and went through the diagnosing flow chart. Turned out he + wire to the charger socket was fully shorted. I have to say the service manual flow chart is great it goes through the systems systematically and is easy to follow. If not for that I never would have found the short.