2007 RXv won't go FWD or REV

[Engine_head]

My 2007 RXV will not move in either direction. Battery's are fully charged. No motion what so ever. No noise at the solidnoid either. Here is what I have done so far based on what I read here. Brake SW shows closed and open when depressed. The brake plug at the motor reades 0.61vdc in FWD & REV. There's no fuse mounted on top of controller. Under the pannel where the run/tow SW is I have AUX plug 1&2, 3&4. directions state to plug AUX #3 into #1. This allows the brake to release. I measure 48vdc at this plug when I do this. Any ideas on what is causing my brake to enguage and not allow the cart to move? Many thanks in advance for any help here.

[usgicollector]

Check this list out.

[Engine_head]

Thanks for the response! How and where do I check for the Charge Receptacle for connection? I can say I do not have any motor movement. The reverse alarm does sound when REV. I'll check the TPS tonight.

[usgicollector]

Does the controller try to rotate the motor a 1/4 turn in both directions?

[Engine_head]

No I do not see any motor movement at all. I will be going throu the "Power-UP" test today. Let me give some back ground on how this all started. The Charger failed and the batteries ran down. The Charger is currently out for repair. Should have it back next week. I disconnected all 4 12v batteries and used a car battery charger to charge each one individually. This gave me a full 48vdc when all 4 were reconnected for the whole package. Based on what I see today I suspect something in the charge port,maybe? Seems that there is a circuit board molded inside of it. I can say that the green light is on at the charge port.

[cgtech]

Green light on while charger not plugged in equals bad charge port.

[Engine_head]

That's Kind of where I was headed. I found the original owners manual and the cart is a 2009 if that makes any difference. I went through all the Power-Up sequence test last night. The Charge inhibit check is the one that just makes the best sense of failure. The RED Positive wire ohms out good. The Black Ground wire ohms out good. The blue wire ohms out good back to the controller plug. The Gray wire is confusing. It will measure 2K ohms on the small 3rd connector and the Ground connector as well. Is this right? It looks like it has what I'll call a fusable link at the end of the wire where it connects to the Battery. In any event Im gonna order a new "charge port" for it. Any suggestions on where I can get the best deal on one? Many thanks to all who helped me on this. You guys are AWSOM!!!! Happy Turkey Day

[cgtech]

The grey wire isn't really a "wire" at all. It has 2 wires inside, and the black box is a temp sensor.

[Engine_head]

Thats[COLOR="Black"[/COLOR] good info to know about the grey wire. As I am waiting on the new parts to arrive next week I'll let you guys know the final fix. One thing I am seeing while I am trying to keep the 4 12 vdc batteries charged is that 2 of them never seem to come to a full charge. My charger goes from yellow "Charging" to Green FULL charge "Maintenance" and starts a trickle charge. The batteries are only 2 years old. . Could 2 of these batteries be bad and this was the root cause of my power port failure?

[EZHO]

Originally Posted by Engine_head

. One thing I am seeing while I am trying to keep the 4 12 vdc batteries charged is that 2 of them never seem to come to a full charge. .... The batteries are only 2 years old.
. Could 2 of these batteries be bad and this was the root cause

I'm Assuming you have a 48v system ?
you said above your pack has 48v , thats under 50% charge . see chart below . So under load its probably at 40v or worse
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if you wondering at all about batteries...., i have been working on a battery info folder from all the info here on the forum for myself and to use on the forum . . its not done but heres what i have so far
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There are a number of things that make you think "the batteries are good", only to find the batteries are bad when tested properly .
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Always the first part of testing a battery and battery pack is Charging and Checking
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You will definitely need a volt meter to test them properly and tell whats going on ...
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But the First thing you need to do is check to make sure all your battery cable connections are good. Connections and cables that are severely corroded, burnt, brittle or stiff are pretty much toast and need to be replaced. Give them a good pull and twist to make sure they are not loose or better yet take them off ONE AT A TIME,. clean the connection and the battery terminal post and put it right back on. Taking them off and cleaning them ensures 2 things....You will know the cable ends and connection is good . Place the highest amp draw cable on the post first, so that it has the most intimate contact with the battery post terminal. There is also an abundance of forum cart questions that can be tracked back to a cart that is miss-wired so review the cable routing and that the main positive and negitves cables are hooked up at the right place
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If you decide to skip the above section , you could very well be wasting your time testing anything . and end up buying some very expensive parts you didn't need because the real problem was something as simple as above
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Charge batteries to full with charger, then do not drive it and let batteries sit without a charger hooked up for 12 hrs.

The " Whole Battery Pack" reading in good condition should read 2.122 volts per "cell" with the formula below / regardless off batteries types ( 6v/8v/12v )
Example for a 36 volt system : 36 volt systems have 3 cells per battery times 6 batteries / so 3 x 6 x 2.122 = 38.2 volts
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Or use the state of charge (SoC) chart below in the thumbnails
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compare your actual voltage readings to determine the health of your battery pack
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And just becouse you may have a good reading at this point , doesnt mean you have a healthy battery pack , keep testing with all of the next steps.
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Check the voltage of each battery ... since they are in series, you will not have to disconnect them ... they can easily be checked individually while cabled up in your cart
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Voltage on a fully charged "Single Battery" in good condition will read 2.122 volts per "cell" (same as above) / regardless of battery type, ( 6v/8v/12v )
Example for a 36 volt system : 6 volt battery has 3 "cells" / so 3 cells times 2.122 = 6.37 volts per battery
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Or use the SoC chart below in the thumbnails
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You will also need to keep track and record your individual battery voltage readings to compare to each other . Individual battery voltages in a battery pack should not range greater "FROM EACH OTHER" (highest reading to lowest reading) more than 0.15 volts for 6 volt batteries or 0.22 volts for 12 volt batteries."

Most people dont have or want a hydrometer , but if you buy one / Get the ones with the needle type (not floating balls)
In both voltage and specific gravity readings, consistency among cells and among batteries is important.
A lead acid battery cell is fully charged with a specific gravity of 1.277 or higher at 80° F. For temperature adjustments, get a specific gravity reading and adjust to temperature by adding .004 for every 10° F above 80° F and subtracting .004 for every 10° F below 80°
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But by Far the LOAD TESTING is the most important test. Batteries can have a good surface charge reading, but fail under load.
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Use a Volt meter to show the" Whole pack voltage" reduced reading under load. This is an important feature to monitor. These lower readings are actually a load test reading of the whole pack. The meter should go right back up when the load is removed
A healthy battery pack under full load (full pedal) should never read lower than 1 battery removed from the pack.
Examples: 30v for a 36v.pack../ . and... 40v for a 48v pack.... ect'
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If you have a handheld load tester for your battery type, then you can use that on each battery separately.
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Rule the thumb for batteries is ..... If the cart is starting to move, but has very poor performance, or quits . It's probably (Again Probably) not a Motor, controller or solenoid issue. More often it is the forward & reverse switch or the batteries are falling off due to one or more of the above conditions . Even just "One battery" that is failing under load could be the problem, that's all it takes
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So when "YOU" decide to replace batteries due to performance or inconvenience is up to you .