2006 precedent light install 4x12v batteries

[NoleFan4Ever]

Originally Posted by Scott888204

Look right?
The blue line is the fuse wire assembly.

That looks PERFECT!!

[Scott888204]

Thanks for your help!!!

[Sergio]

For future reference, on a Precedent the battery #4 (pack negative) is the only battery that can be tapped for 12v if you use the factory harness.

Also make sure the negative is on Controller B- and not the battery post.

As mentioned, a converter is better for the pack long term.

[Scott888204]

So can someone guide me on what 48v to 12v reducer to get and how to install? I’m sure it has been talked about before on here. Lol. Thanks for all the help!


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[NoleFan4Ever]

Here are several, including OEM. https://www.revolutiongolfcars.com/voltage-reducers And if you will call David, he will guide you with which is best for you and exactly the best install as he is our resident Club Car guru....

[yawood]

Originally Posted by Scott888204

So can someone guide me on what 48v to 12v reducer to get and how to install? I’m sure it has been talked about before on here. Lol. Thanks for all the help!

Rather than me do a step-by-step install description when I don't know exactly what reducer you will get, let me just give you some basics...

1. think of the reducer as just being a separate 12V battery to run your accessories
2. the input to the reducer will come from 48V +ve (with a fuse) and 48V -ve
3. the 48V negative will connect to the B- of the controller (a precedent has a black cable with a yellow connector behind the battery pack for this purpose). This ensures that any power drawn by the reducer is replaced when the batteries are charged.
4. the 48V positive will connect directly to the +ve post of Battery No 1. Attach an online fuse as close as posible to the battery
5. if the reducer has a fifth wire this will connect to the "cold side" of the key switch (the side that has power only when the key is on). That means that the reducer will be on only when the key is on
6. if the reducer only has four wires then it will be permanently on unless you install a relay or separate (heavy duty) switch
7. the 12V output of the reducer has +12V and -12V and acts exactly like the +ve and -ve terminals of a separate 12V battery
8. connect the positives of the accessories through a fuse box to the positive 12V of the reducer
9. connect the negatives of the accessories through a bus bar to the negative 12V of the reducer
10. always run separate negative leads back from the accessories to the bus bar - DO NOT use the cart chassis as the negative return

When you buy a reducer it is better (and easiest) to get one with a "trigger" wire (i.e. a fifth wire). This saves you having to worry about installing a relay or separate switch. It is also best to get a 30A reducer (about the biggest you can get) as this means that you'll have the power to add additional accessories at a later date.

If you keep these points in mind when you buy or install, you can't go wrong.

[scrannel]

If you're just doing headlights I just finished an install with 48v bulbs that required, of course, nothing more than a switch. (48v DS). Looking at tail lights now.