New Piston/Rings seem tight, what does PVC hose connect to?

[Cartmaster]

Originally Posted by Tfastle@aol.com

After I sent my last reply I gave it a little thought. I would have to guess that oil pressure must open a switch in the sensor so really any 12 volt light would likely work, is that correct? If so, then I should be able to use a meter to confirm I have oil pressure - when running and with the positive lead on sensor connector, negative lead to ground, 12 volts means no/low pressure, 0 volts means good oil pressure. Am I correct on this?

Actually, you need the positive probe on battery+ and negative probe on the sender. The sender switches ground to fire the lamp. Your way would not work with volts, but would show continuity or open when reading ohms. Otherwise you are correct, it's just a pressure switch.

[trig123]

Originally Posted by Cartmaster

Actually, you need the positive probe on battery+ and negative probe on the sender. The sender switches ground to fire the lamp. Your way would not work with volts, but would show continuity or open when reading ohms. Otherwise you are correct, it's just a pressure switch.

Good call cartmaster. I overlooked his reply . Glad you caught it. I had the diagram on my phone and just forgot to upload it here.
Here is the wiring diagram for gas gauge and fuel. Thanks for watching over old Tom

[Cartmaster]

No worries. I apologise for not being around much but being as UK is looking like being in a full long term lockdown, my priorities have altered a bit. As I am in Kent I'm in the highest level of covid infection. I still pop in, but not everyday at the moment.

[Tfastle@aol.com]

Ah, makes perfect sense, thanks Cartmaster! Sorry to hear about the difficulties COVID is causing you. It's certainly been a crazy year or so!

I did get the pressure switch out. I wasn't able to spin it with the impact wrench (the bolt would screw out - I assume because of the impact action) but after priming via the pressure switch hole and turning it by hand I did get oil to pump through the head and onto the cam so that is good. I also picked up a pressure gauge and I plan to drop the engine in today and spin it using the starter and see what kind of pressure I have. Then check the compression and, if all is good there, see if it will fire up.

[Cartmaster]

You may be good to go if you have oil reaching the head and cam. Those MCI engines need a good supply of oil up top to prevent damage to the head by a bound camshaft. Regular oil changes with a good quality oil will see you good. Others will tell you the same. If you fail here it will cost at least a grand to put right.

[trig123]

Because it is an MCI engine I would always want to know if I had oil pressure.

Cartmaster knows about the oiling system on these engines.

I think you are ready to smell some smoke as we used to put it after installing an engine but we don't want to see any lol

Let us know how that thing runs. I am betting good.

[Tfastle@aol.com]

So, a quick update and, of course, some questions for you keepers of knowledge.

I got the engine in, connected an oil pressure gauge to it and cranked it over (plugs out) and the oil pressure built up quickly and seemed good (25lbs - 45lbs). I then checked the compression in both cylinders and they were both about 147. So, it's a good sign that they are basically the same. We are at fairly high altitude, about 5200', so 147 is pretty good. About equivalent to 175lbs at sea level (I think). Of course, the next step was to actually fire it up (yep, the moment of truth).

I did suck some fuel through the fuel line to prime the fuel pump and made sure it was pumping fuel. Connected it to the carb (no air filter), gave it a little choke and, low and behold, it started right up. I wouldn't say it ran great but it did run. When I would throttle it down it would sometimes backfire out of the carb. I did some reading and I gather that is probably related to the carb butterfly not closing all the way. I played with the linkage for the throttle cable from the governor to the carb and got it to where it closed better and, while it still backfires a little on start up when cold, it's much better. I ran it some more in my shop (neutral, no drive belt) and was just not sure if it was running well or not. It does puke some black carbon like smoke out of the exhaust (was actually thick almost chunks at first) which I think is carbon build up that was in the exhaust pipe from before. It does seem to shut down rather quickly. I think it's mostly related to it being a four cycle and a golf cart set up (as opposed to a motorcycle or lawn mower that kind of spin down at shut off). When I would back out of the throttle it would idle down and stop fairly quickly - almost like something was tight in the engine. But, obviously carts aren't designed to idle and I am guessing these do that, let off the throttle and they stop pretty promptly . Is that correct and fairly normal for one of these engines?

This morning I installed the drive belt and I decided to take it for a drive around my driveway and it ran pretty good. Still backfires a tiny bit on cold start (one small pop) and did backfire a small bit a time or two on stopping. The oil pressure was about 25lbs at low RPM and would go up to 50-60lbs at higher RPM although I didn't run it hard at all - max of 1/2 to 3/4 throttle and only ran it a total of about 10 minutes. I then checked the plugs and compression. The plugs were surprisingly dark (black) but not wet. Compression was still 147 in both cylinders. I think that all is good news and it is where I'm currently at. A couple questions.

Any input on the backfire? I am guessing it is indeed related to the carb butterfly adjustment and I will read on that a bit more and play with it. The plugs may be dark because of the oil and assembly lube that were in the engine from the rebuild but I don't know for sure. I cleaned them and will check them again after running it some more. I would think dark plugs would mean it's running rich. Are there different main jets available for these carbs or what do you do to adjust jetting? I didn't notice any air adjustment screws or anything. On the exhaust puking some dark particles under a load I am guessing that, in it's prior life (this thing has sat outside completely torn apart for over 7 years) it ran very rich and there is some carbon build up in the exhaust pipe/muffler and it is just burning out. Or, might it be something else? I should add that the original air filter set up is missing some parts so I just stuck on a Spectre Conical filter (like a K&N) and plan to address a more permanent filter setup in the future. Do most owners stick with the stock filter setup or is there a better way to address it?

Lastly I have a question on how hot it should run. If I run it for 4-5 minutes I can briefly touch the fins on the cylinders but they are hot enough that you can't hold your hand on it. Does that sound about right or might something actually be "tight" and that is hotter than it should be (it's about 55F degrees outside today)? Yes, I know I am being a major league wimp with this. I am nervous that if I run it hard at all or long it's going to get hot and stick something (like a piston in a cyl). And yes, I am still a bit nervous that something is "a bit tight." I'm guessing not and all this is normal for these engines and set ups and hope someone says "it is".

Thanks!

PS - Last night my wife and oldest daughter wanted me to start it for them so I did. After listening a few seconds my daughter glanced at me with a concerned look and said in a stern voice, "hummm, ... something sounds a little tight Dad." I thought "oh my GOD, even she notices it!!" I didn't realize until my wife started laughing that she was just giving me a hard time. Yes, apparently even my wife and daughters have caught wind that I am a little "up tight" about this thing being "a bit tight". :)

[JPonLKN]

I will tell you that you need the intake and filter installed, or they will backfire and run weird. Not sure that K&N filter would provide enough restriction to mimic the stock setup. I had similar issues without the intake installed and couldn't figure out why it was running funny...After shared wisdom on here, put the intake/filter on, and problems went away. Running a little rich isn't going to hurt much of anything for now...I would run it a bit and see how it cleans up...you might be right that it is just assembly lube on initial fire up. Should clear up pretty quick though if that is all it is.

[trig123]

I really think you are good to go. Does this cart have the original carburetor or you think someone install the cheaper aftermarket one ?

Some people here have changed the air filter to something other than OEM but I never have so I really can't say for sure.

As far as adjusting the carb there is really none.


Just make sure the throttle plate is closing all the way when you let off it. The idle adjustment screw can be just backed all the way off.

There is steps in the repair manual showing how to adjust the throttle linkage.

If not set correct when you first push gas pedal it could cause this backfire you mention. It should be steps on how to do this in the manual.

The later model carts like yours are not as bad but still might want to read the repair manual in case someone before you has tampered with it.

For higher altitudes you could change the main jet to one suited for that. I believe smaller jet is what you would need.

They do make them but they are very hard to remove most of the time.

The only difference in the 295 and 350 engines is the jet size. I ordered a new OEM for my workhorse with the 350 cc engine and it runs perfect.

These engines do stop when you left off them and they get sort of warm. I would have to run mine and shoot it with my infrared thermometer to say exactly what its showing. I might have time to do that tomorrow.

[Tfastle@aol.com]

Thanks JPon, I wondered if the Conical Filter I put on would be less restrictive than the factory one and it might run lean. As dark as the plugs were and if that persists I would think it's not lean but won't know for sure until I get more time on it. One nice thing about the stock setup is that it take air from the cab area rather than the more dusty air under the cart. But, boy does it seem like a restrictive set up - through the vent below the seat, then that long hose, air filter and then another hose to the carb. Maybe it needs to be to run right. Does anyone know what the piece of flat metal riveted in side the Inlet Adapter (72416-G01) that covers most of the opening is for (the piece that attaches to the body panel below the seat where the heels of your feet would be - it has a piece of flat metal that covers about 80% of the opening)? Maybe to reduce air flow? Seems crazy.