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02-24-2021, 08:46 PM | #1 |
Gone Wild
Join Date: Jul 2020
Location: NC
Posts: 769
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Anyone ever remove a Pre-MCI flywheel from a Robbin 295/350 while still in the cart?
I'm trying to finish up the 5th of a series of workhorse rebuilds...the last of them. I have it all together except for an accelerator cable, the one I have is from an TXT or 800 series machine apparently and is too short, and the fuel lines and pump. Before I set up the fuel system, I want to make sure I have spark. Well...Not so lucky. Pulser coil Ohms out correctly, Ignition Coil Ohms out correctly at both primary and secondary contacts, Starter/Generator turns over properly on pedal micro switch operation. The problem is that i can't get 1/2 volt...or any voltage out of the pulsar coil when turning over. Since it ohms correctly, I'm guessing it is good, just not picking up signal off the flywheel, so I was going to install another flywheel that I have. I realize it could be the ignitor, but I'm hoping it is something else. Grounds all ohm out fine with continuity. My problem is that I don't have a puller that would work on the flywheel...Since it is on a taper, there is no way to pry it off, and the quick pop of a hammer on the nut won't work either as there is no room for swing.
Any ideas? |
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02-24-2021, 09:54 PM | #2 |
Vintage tech
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: South
Posts: 3,210
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Re: Anyone ever remove a Pre-MCI flywheel from a Robbin 295/350 while still in the ca
I really don't think there is anything that could go bad on the flywheel. Its been a long day so I could be wrong
If the pulser Ohms between 19 and 21 Ohms you should be good. Set it closer to flywheel and see if you get any AC voltage. You don't have to see the 1/2 volt but it should generate some. Nothing in the manual suggests checking AC voltage . Just Ohms be correct and setting with feeler gauge. Maybe .020 I know in the past I said it had to show 1/2 volt when spinning over but I have found that is not always the case. I was wrong as I have checked five pre mci running carts and only one shows 1/2 volt. The rest are much lower but they all run. Have you checked another one with the same meter ? to make sure this meter is correct ? My bet would be the ignitor . They normally don't go bad unless something like overcharging happens. |
02-24-2021, 10:47 PM | #3 |
Gone Wild
Join Date: Jul 2020
Location: NC
Posts: 769
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Re: Anyone ever remove a Pre-MCI flywheel from a Robbin 295/350 while still in the ca
Pulsar Ohms at 19.8. It was set too close originally, .015 in when I first tested it and got nothing. I adjusted it to .030...still nothing. Not sure why my meter would be bad...use it all the time and seems to be fine. Cheap unit though, so maybe its bad. I just put a new battery in another meter and checked it with it as well, no voltage. Ohms are 19.8 on the second meter. Is there a magnet in the flywheel, or is it simply a chunk of steel? I have two other flywheels and nothing steel sticks to any of them anywhere. I am guessing the are no magnets in the flywheel...just a gap in the steel. You are probably right in that it is the ignitor, I was just hoping it is something else that I can fix. I think there is another ignitor in the junk yard, but again, no idea if it is a good one. I'll pull one out of the working workhorse first to see if its the ignitor or something else. Just trying not to have to tear apart my working machine to get this one running. Looks like that is the way I have to go.
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02-24-2021, 11:36 PM | #4 | |
Vintage tech
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: South
Posts: 3,210
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Re: Anyone ever remove a Pre-MCI flywheel from a Robbin 295/350 while still in the ca
Quote:
Use that meter on a running cart pulser and see what you get. Its late . I will check back tomorrow. Good luck. |
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02-25-2021, 08:44 PM | #5 |
Gone Wild
Join Date: Jul 2020
Location: NC
Posts: 769
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Re: Anyone ever remove a Pre-MCI flywheel from a Robbin 295/350 while still in the ca
We have spark. Had nothing to do with the Pulsar coil or the flywheel...I am guessing it was the ground from the ignitor. It had a spade connector and it didn't appear to have a good connection and I missed it on first go around. Decided to pull the whole electrical portion apart as it had never been taken apart. While pulling it apart, that spade connector simply fell apart, figured that was where the issue was. Cleaned up the interface between the carrier plate that holds the ignitor/solenoid/VR and the frame, replaced the frame ground below, and fixed that ground wire at the ignitor, and sparked fine when I put it back together. Just need an accelerator cable and seats and it should be driveable.
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