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06-14-2021, 11:01 PM | #11 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Jun 2021
Posts: 19
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Re: Loss of voltage at key switch
Ok thank you. I'll check in the morning and let you know
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06-14-2021, 11:06 PM | #12 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Jun 2021
Posts: 19
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Re: Loss of voltage at key switch
Just so I understand check power at white wire on the obc. 48v. Correct?
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06-14-2021, 11:13 PM | #13 |
Gone Wild
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: Central South Carolina
Posts: 939
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Re: Loss of voltage at key switch
When you switch on and have no power at the green, check for power at the orange at the FR switch and power on the white at the 6 pin plug to the OBC . If they're both dead at the same time the green is dead, then check for power on the light green from the Tow switch. If it's still live, then you have a failed sonic weld. If that light green is also dead, it's your lucky day. Fix the tow switch.
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06-15-2021, 08:46 AM | #14 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Jun 2021
Posts: 19
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Re: Loss of voltage at key switch
Okay I have power st of those locations.
Time to search and check for the sonic weld. |
06-15-2021, 08:51 AM | #15 |
Gone Wild
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: Central South Carolina
Posts: 939
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Re: Loss of voltage at key switch
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06-15-2021, 10:09 AM | #16 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Jun 2021
Posts: 19
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Re: Loss of voltage at key switch
Yes found a corroded broken wire at the Dash connector harness plug.
Fixed and now and I have steady 50v at the green wire when I turn the key switch on. I have 48v at blue wire on mcor switch. When I press pedal I have 48v on green wire leaving mcor going to controller. Controller is still not waking up. Have no ground on the blue/white wire at the solenoid. |
06-15-2021, 10:56 AM | #17 |
Gone Wild
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: Central South Carolina
Posts: 939
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Re: Loss of voltage at key switch
Good catch on the corroded pin in the dash. So you were losing power on the upstream side of the sonic weld. Thats a good thing. Sounds like most of the primary circuit is working now but the controller is not grounding the solenoid.
May need to reset onboard computer. It involves the beeper which you said is corroded and not working. If you plug the charger into the cart will the charger come on ? If so, the OBC might reset from the charger. If it won't come on, then unhook a battery cable to kill all voltage and let it sit for about 15 or 20 minutes. That should reset OBC. Then maybe it'll wake up and ground the solenoid. The ground on that blu/wht is what activates the solenoid but won't be provided if there's a snag with the OBC. |
06-15-2021, 11:16 AM | #18 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Jun 2021
Posts: 19
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Re: Loss of voltage at key switch
Yes cart will charge.
I had the batteries disconnected over night roughly 8 hrs. What does the small grey wire do coming from the charger port. Is that the interlock? Could the computer think it's charging even though the charger is not plugged in? Is there a way to trick the computer to see that it is not plugged in? Basically bypass the interlock wire |
06-15-2021, 11:16 AM | #19 |
Gone Wild
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: Central South Carolina
Posts: 939
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Re: Loss of voltage at key switch
Sepex Carts: Reset Onboard Computer
1.) Flip tow/run switch to tow 2.) Disconnect pack positive and pack negative connections 3.) Wait 10 to 15 minutes 4.) Reconnect power 5.) Flip tow/run switch to run |
06-15-2021, 11:28 AM | #20 |
Bonafide Nincompoop
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Charlottesburg Va
Posts: 8,987
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Re: Loss of voltage at key switch
Interlock is handled by the OBC. But it's possible the OBC failed and is not sending power to the controller interlock pin. Check for 48v coming out of the OBC on the Light Blue wire. Also check the 16 pin connector on the controller for corrosion/damage. If there was corrosion in the harness this might be a flood cart and could have many more problems.
The Grey wire on the charge port is the sense lead for the OBC to turn the charger on/off. |
Tags |
48v, solenoid |
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