Potentiometer Problems

[jauguston]

FWIW, I just went out and made a measurement on my '92 Marathon. With my tape measure on top of the throttle and pressed against the firewall the pedal moved 1/4" and the solenoid clicked. It moved another 1 1/2" before it started to apply power to the motor. That 1 1/2" was what it took to release the parking brake.

Jim

[Paxdad]

By chance does your controller have 3 allen head screws on the side near the top?

[gmathew2]

Ill check and see about the allen screws, but the controller is a 24 - 48v Alltrax controller that I took off another EZGO.

[scottyb]

Originally Posted by jauguston

FWIW, I just went out and made a measurement on my '92 Marathon. With my tape measure on top of the throttle and pressed against the firewall the pedal moved 1/4" and the solenoid clicked. It moved another 1 1/2" before it started to apply power to the motor. That 1 1/2" was what it took to release the parking brake.Jim

Well.....what about without the parking break on?????

[jauguston]

Scotty,

I am surprised you didn't know the answer yourself. The pedal has to have that much travel before the motor is powered either way. The travel is the same brake on or off.

Jim

[iaefebs]

Bumping this back up...did the OP get this solved?

[gmathew2]

No, I have not found the problem yet, but I don't think it's the pot anymore. I'm going to unbolt the motor from the Diff. supporting it the whole time, leave the wires connected, and see if the motor actually turns when the solenoid clicks. It's like the cart delays in acceleration until it reaches half ohms coming from the pot box, then takes off. If golf carts had gears I would say its starting off in 3rd if 5th gear is maximum. There is no slow speed which i need because it's going to be a hunting cart.

[iaefebs]

Originally Posted by gmathew2

I have a 70 or 71 model Club Car Caroche that I have eliminated the 3 pedal design, incorporating the running features of a 93 EZGO. The donor cart came with a 4 wire Pot box with one end hooked to the controller F/R and the other hooked to one of the micro switches on the F/R switch. I've got the cart running but I'm not sure as to what the correct wire position is coming from the Pot box to the F/R switch and the Controller. I can hook up one set of wire from the pot box to the controller and the cart will run as soon as the micro switch on the pot box is released but soon dies when throttle reaches half way. When hooking up the other two wires from the pot box to the controller the cart will delay acceleration until half throttle but the reaching max acceleration. Is there something wrong with the potentiometer, or am I wiring it up wrong??

Ok here is what I think I know. From the pot switch you have two bundled wires of two wires each. They may be two different lengths the longer one goes to the FNR. Check this with your ohm meter to be sure. The set of wires that read 0-5k ohms is the ones that go to your controller. The other two will read a higher value, those go to the FNR. Once you have the wires hooked up properly you can start making either a linkage adjustment or moving the arm attached to the pot to a new position. The reason you had immediate movement then dying on you is because you exceeded the controller limits with the wires in the incorrect position. Get the wires on there correct and lets go from there.

[gmathew2]

Yes I realized this after testing the ohms on the 2 different set of wires. I switched the wires back to the correct position with 0-5k going to the controller and the higher ohm reading going to the FNR micro switch. My next question would be that maybe I don't have the microswitches hooked up correctly. I've got the higher ohm reading wires from the pot box going to one microswitch that is a doubled switch, one switch goes to the reverse buzzer, and the other is for the half speed which is where I have the Higher reading ohm wires connected to. I am utilizing just one of the switches because I don't want a buzzer. I've looked at diagrams where they have the run switch linked to the other set of microswitches for reverse and half speed, but when I do this the cart does not operate. On the other side of the FNR switch I have the "Run" microswitch that has Direct power running to it from the Key switch and the open side feeding power to the pot box micro switch.
I have adjusted the pot arm so that when the key switch opens, the micro switch on the potentiometer is also open, thus turning the solenoid on as soon as the key switch is on. The cart will move as soon as the pedal is depressed this way but again still jumpy and at half throttle position the cart shuts off again. This is due to reaching the controller maximum, like you said earlier so I moved it back to its original position.
I will take some pictures of the cart tomorrow and post them when I get home.

[gmathew2]

Here are some pic of the cart in question