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Old 11-03-2012, 06:58 PM   #1
Ghall
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Default 88 ezgo Top & Bottom End Engine Rebuild

First off I would I to say HI to everyone, been a long time since my last post. Now the carts home and going to start the winter projects top and bottom rebuild, tires and wheels. (again) We went to the lake for the last weekend and when we got there some SOB stolen the tires and wheels off the cart and the propane tanks off the camper.

I did do one mod over the summer. I added a top (wife said "I want a top!) guy down the road had a top for a CC was asking $30, I gave him $10 the back supports got on EBay for $15 and the front was $80

Today I power washed the engine and tomorrow I will get it up on jacks and start to pulling the engine. I hope to order the rebuild kit next week.

I am going to have a lot of help. First, I don't have a arbor press, am I going to have to get one?
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Old 11-03-2012, 08:48 PM   #2
kyerik
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Default Re: 88 ezgo Top & Bottom End Engine Rebuild

As for the question about needing a press, I removed my crank bearings by using a chisel as a wedge and with a bearing puller. The new bearings went on to the crank pretty easy with a hammer, flat punch and some light to moderate tapping. You can split the crankcase halves with a modified steering wheel puller.
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Old 11-04-2012, 07:42 AM   #3
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Default Re: 88 ezgo Top & Bottom End Engine Rebuild

will a 1 Ton Arbor Press work?
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Old 11-04-2012, 01:09 PM   #4
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Default Re: 88 ezgo Top & Bottom End Engine Rebuild

Today I put the cart up on jack stands and pulled motor and did some cleaning. Now the fun part. I was looking at the flywheel removal. Do I have to remove the cooling fan first?
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Old 11-04-2012, 04:28 PM   #5
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Default Re: 88 ezgo Top & Bottom End Engine Rebuild

Leaking bad ????????????
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Old 11-04-2012, 04:30 PM   #6
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Default Re: 88 ezgo Top & Bottom End Engine Rebuild

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Leaking bad ????????????
yes!!


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Old 11-04-2012, 04:29 PM   #7
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Default Re: 88 ezgo Top & Bottom End Engine Rebuild

rdtgv
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Old 11-04-2012, 04:32 PM   #8
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Default Re: 88 ezgo Top & Bottom End Engine Rebuild

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Hey there. I was reading your post and I was wondering if you are doing a full rebuild ? Sounds like you are.
Going for the full rebuild. Just started today.
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Old 11-06-2012, 11:20 AM   #9
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Default Re: 88 ezgo Top & Bottom End Engine Rebuild

Wow this thread went all over the place fast, LOL ... I'll try to consolidate, YES you have to pull the fan with the 6 bolts that hold it on (also be sure to save the 3-hole "washers" for reinstallation, they have tabs that need to be flattened to remove the bolts then re-bent on install or the bolts will back out).

A simple steering wheel puller with IIRC a couple of #6 metric shoulder bolts *might* do the trick, but if you have access to a heavy-duty puller FOR gears, flywheels, etc you'll likely save a snapped puller (I went through 2 of the cheapie sterring-wheel types when I had to pull the flywheel on my 8 - also pop the few extra cents for high-grade bolts as well as take the time to soak it all down at the shaft with PB Blaster prior to pulling and You should be OK. Do NOT try to pry anywhere in any way or you WILL damage the engine casing (again, don't ask just TRUST ME on this one, LOL) however it DOES help to get everything under tension and tap lightly around the perimeter of the flywheel towards the shaft (a drift punch comes in handy here to keep from bunging up the casing with a mis-hit) ... A little beer and a little swearing helps too - it's not REQUIRED but anytime I've pulled a flywheel its' inevitable.
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Old 11-06-2012, 11:31 AM   #10
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Default Re: 88 ezgo Top & Bottom End Engine Rebuild

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Originally Posted by BrewCityMusic View Post
Wow this thread went all over the place fast, LOL ... I'll try to consolidate, YES you have to pull the fan with the 6 bolts that hold it on (also be sure to save the 3-hole "washers" for reinstallation, they have tabs that need to be flattened to remove the bolts then re-bent on install or the bolts will back out).

A simple steering wheel puller with IIRC a couple of #6 metric shoulder bolts *might* do the trick, but if you have access to a heavy-duty puller FOR gears, flywheels, etc you'll likely save a snapped puller (I went through 2 of the cheapie sterring-wheel types when I had to pull the flywheel on my 8 - also pop the few extra cents for high-grade bolts as well as take the time to soak it all down at the shaft with PB Blaster prior to pulling and You should be OK. Do NOT try to pry anywhere in any way or you WILL damage the engine casing (again, don't ask just TRUST ME on this one, LOL) however it DOES help to get everything under tension and tap lightly around the perimeter of the flywheel towards the shaft (a drift punch comes in handy here to keep from bunging up the casing with a mis-hit) ... A little beer and a little swearing helps too - it's not REQUIRED but anytime I've pulled a flywheel its' inevitable.
Thanks, It is soaking in PB Blaster now,waiting on the puller to get here.
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