295 head on 350 performance engine rebuild?

[tonyton]

Thanks benno.
Something interesting happened today. I went to the local EZ GO shop to get some gaskets. I spoke with the mechanic, Terry, he has lived here his whole life, is very well known, and knows everyone in the area. very knowledgable man.
I had a discussion with him regarding boring cylinders, hardening cranks, magnafluxing etc. basic performanse mods. When I asked him who does this stuff? He looked straight at me and said, "there ain't antbody around here that does that stuff". He said the best bet would be a small motor shop in Atlanta!
I never imagined there would be no small motor race shops in Alabama. There are race cars everywhere and people build motors, I gues if it's not 350cu. inches (5.0 litres) or bigger they don't know what to do with it!
Don't go through any extra trouble Benno. The inner diameter of the header would be OK and the overall length before the muffler would be a good start. I'm also not in a hurry.... Im going to build a header from scrap. The one they sell here is almost $300. It's chromed and I'll probably need to modify/tune it. I will be sure they are the same length before bending the tubes!
Thanks for your time and info. I appreciate it.
tonyton

[pizzamaker]

Originally Posted by spled77

just did 295 block and crank with 350 st. pistons, .60 off block got pistons @ .24 to the deck. 350 head gasket stock 295 head. the other mods needed are timing belt cover, bottom muffler bracket & coil bracket. the timing belt is almost adj.to the limit a new one would help.

sounds about right, .24 to the deck? so your saying the pistons are .24 short the top of the deck? the pistons need to be .000 to the deck. this 295 block with 350 .50 over pistons is -.84 deck height. just my 2 cents

[Subarumouse]

Hello Tony & co

See new pics in album.

Exhaustheader made of steel used in steamengines / turbines, 25mm innerdiam and 28mm outer.
Length of the pipe 365 mm plus 35 of the 2 in one.
Diam 2 in one 50 mm

Than a piece of about 80mm flex, going in the exhaust as shown on my cart.
In the exhaust is only a "piramid'" with a 20 mm opening at the top, pointing to the outside.
In the piramid are holes.
At the end two pipes like from a VW beatle.

Benno

[pizzamaker]

i found these were cheap and easy to fab up, this set is from a mid 90's yamaha banshee

[tonyton]

Wow! Thank you all for the information! I am overwhelmed!
Benno, You didn't have to go through all the trouble, They are great pictures and it's a very CLEAN looking machine. All bussiness.
THANK YOU VERY MUCH!'
I got some different size insulators (thickness) for the carb and am well enough to install some fittings for the fuel pump hose. I will also be looking for steel tubing for the exhaust.
I like the idea of fine sand to bend the tubing. I never heard of that and really want try it! Just seal it very good, and you could even heat it a little if needed. I have a whole load of sand.
That's great. No need to borrow or buy a bender.
Thanks PM you are a great resource. Thanks for you input. You saved a lot of time, money, and guesswork.
tony
oh, Ill be busy for a while..........

[Subarumouse]

Hello Tony & co,

The sand is to prevent the tube from getting oval or tearing apart when bending it.
Bend it warm.
The S tube is the difficult one, but you don't need the S one.
As i see it, you get down 2 pipes under the cart and there fitting it together.
For the flexpart, look at some cars they have one between pipe and header
Its better quality as ours.

Oh, i use Nippon Denso iridium plugs 27, 29 and 31 depending on the weather / temperature.
They cost some, but last longer and are better at all revs.

Benno

[tonyton]

Benno,
I'll try it (tube bending), I'm sure it will work. The 25 mm pipe is a standard 1" here. There's a lot of kinds available, as well as flex tube. That makes thing a lot easier. At least they have muffler shops and steel around here.
I will fab a connection from some steel and lay that out soon.
I should have known that weather conditons would predict plug heat range.
I'll start with stock and adust as necessary. just to make sure that I'm close to start. I'll start to work as I can and will have more pics soon. Thanks,
Tony

[tonyton]

We're back. Finally started working again and fabbed up some flanges for the header.
These were cut to 1" dia,. then countersunk with 1-1/8". I have to use 1" EMT for the header. The muffler shops have 1-1/2 and up.

The connections to the flange/ header are Brazed on the inside and ground smooth. I went to allen head bolts for easier clearance when tightening/loosening

The header was cut at 20" length, for ease the bending and will be cut to final length.

I picked up a muffler from the auto parts store. Its a resonator that will probably be too loud. We'll see.

I'm going to assemble this motor with a used block that is in good condition.
I'll have the other block built as I can. I'll use this as a test until I have all the other parts done.
My car needs repair, and it is messing up my motor build. $$

I do have a couple questions for Benno.
Hi Benno,
Your header length is 365mm. How much longer would you try for more low/mid power? Add 50mm?
Also, my carb/ cylinder distance is approximately 40mm.(insultor) Would you try longer for better mid RPM? I know it would be a guess/ estimate as all motors are different, and it is a tuning item. The motor will need to run for some adjustments, of course.
Here are some pictures. I may redo this, I have a very good pattern now and it would look a little better. Thanks, Tony

[tonyton]

here's a couple more! a half finished hader.

[tonyton]

The MSD ignition was delivered today. It is physically BIGGER than I thought.
I'm going to assemble the motor this weekend. I'll fix my car and then start building the spare low end with the hardened crank, new rods, bearings, pistons and a fresh bore. Here are pics of the MSD