EZGO Workhorse / Jacobsen Build

[slonomo]

Cartmaster thank you a million times! I have the wire diagram saved on my phone, but when I was out looking at the cart it just didn't make any sense to me. I'm really really good with wiring, especially low voltage. But diagrams? I just can't read those and make the connection to what I see in real life lol.

Your description is how I think. I think "flow order". Where does the 12v start, where does it travel to, and where does it end up? That's how I deal with wiring problems. I am a novice electrician and have worked with 120v, 240v, 12v, Cat 5, Coaxial, and phone lines, and have been pretty successful in my methods. So I know what I'm doing lol, just don't know the flow order on this cart. Your explanation helps quite a bit.

I didn't know the key switch comes after the pedal switch. So the key switch is literally at the end? Wierd. I've seen some electricians wire wall switches like that, at the end of the wire run.

I'll give the blue and green wires a try.

Also, you might be right about the pedal switch. I didn't know there was a little box under the mat. All those wires are all hidden in a loom under the frame. I'll check all that too.

Thanks I'll report back!

[JPonLKN]

Slonomo,
The key switch isn't at the end of the run...its between the pedal switch and the solenoid. 12v hot red wire from the + batt terminal or the always hot side of the solenoid, through a 7amp fuse to the pedal switch. On its way to the pedal switch, it provides power to the reverse buzzer...its a pass through piggyback connector that lands on a spade at the reverse buzzer microswitch...As long as the two red wires are connected at this point, it can be taken off the reverse buzzer switch. In the photo below, the buzzer is hanging low, and there is an extra ground wire.
20210226_101053.jpg
Power enters the switch red, leaves the switch green.
20210226_101013.jpg
That green wire comes back out in the same grey casing back to the engine compartment, over to the electric control area, and connects through a spade connector into the green wire in the loom that heads to the key switch. Enters the key switch green, leaves blue. If you have gauges, there will be a piggyback red off that blue spade connector on the back of the key switch to feed power to the gauges. If its only key switch (ie: no gauges), just green in, blue out. Like Cartmaster said, the other two spade connectors on the back of the key switch are for the lights. They are blue/white wires and are not necessary to make the cart run.
20210226_101223.jpg
The solid blue wire goes back into the loom from the key switch, and down to the solenoid where it activates the solenoid switch. At the solenoid, on the small terminal, the blue brings switched hot in, and provides switched hot out to the ignitor (Mine are all orange, wiring diagram shows it as red), and a red wire to the ignition coil. I also have a yellow out to the hour meter.
20210226_101135.jpg

Hope the pics help.

[slonomo]

JP thanks a ton! Yes the pics help a lot.

[slonomo]

Here's the wiring. Blue, Green, Black

Here's the switch. BATT, IGN, ACC

I know this isn't the correct switch, but its what I have at the moment.

[slonomo]

After some digging I found two more wires. A White appears to go to the single headlight.
Black appears to be attached to the frame.

I'm guessing these wires and the light are not factory.

[JPonLKN]

Yeah, that is a switch for a starter on a motor that idles. It also has a back turn for an accessory like lights, or radio. It is a 4 position switch, and rotating from left to right, Position 1 is to the left and is for accessory only. Position 2 is the normally off position. Position 3 provides power to both ACC and IGN, and position 4 is spring return to position 3 and used for the starter which we won't use in this application. Hook the green up to BATT, and the blue up to IGN. Turn key first position closes this switch and makes this connection. It would also make the ACC position, but you only get 12volts when the pedal is pressed.

The normal cart ignition switch has two switches in one....one to close the solenoid, and one to close the lights switch. The problem with using this key switch is that it is only one switch, you don't have power to the switch unless the pedal is pressed and that microswitch in the floor is closed, so anything you hook up to the ACC side of this switch only works when the pedal is pressed.

Didn't you say you had 12 volts present on one of the black wires? If so, some prior jackleg ran a black "hot" wire to the dash area to run the light so it could work whether the pedal was pressed or not. In 12 volt systems, black should always be ground, with the exception of large gauge starter and battery cables. If you do have 12 volts hot all the time at that wire in the dash, label it as such and add a flip switch for the light, but keep it separate from this key switch.

You can verify if your pedal microswitch is working or not pretty easy. Set your volt meter to Ohms, put one lead on the red wire under the shift mechanism, and the other on the green wire at the key switch. Press the pedal and you should get connectivity. Saves taking the floor apart. If you have connectivity without pressing the pedal, or pressing the pedal doesn't provide you with connectivity, then that switch is bad or has been taken apart.

[slonomo]

Thanks JP. I just now got online here, funny I did exactly as yiu suggested. I traced that black wire all the way back to under the box in the engine compartment. It's wired right to the solenoid with a 15 amp mini fuse. Why they used black wire I'll never know, but I went ahead and labeled it as well as all the other wires under the dash. Tomorrow I will pickup a 20 amp toggle switch for the light, which did turn on so the bulb is good.

Also you guys were right, the blue wire and green wire makes the starter work with the pedal perfectly. Even though the switch I'm using is not the correct part it works just fine. I think I'll order the correct 4 terminal switch so I can run the lights off the key switch.

Job well done you guys! The help is much appreciated 🙏 ☯️

[slonomo]

Next up:

Rocker trim panels

Rear roof struts

Key switch

Steering rack boot (short one)

Air filter (canister style)

Drive belt

Guys, I need help locating these parts. I went to Country Cat and can't get to the right section. Maybe I'm going to the wrong site. My model number is 84024.

When I go to the site I only see an option for Ezgo and not Jacobsen. When I use my model number in the Ezgo section nothing comes up.

I've looked on Amazon and Ebay, I just don't trust Chinese imitation parts and I want good stuff. Obviously some of the parts need to be factory.

If you can point me in the right direction, I'm feeling lost here.

[Cartmaster]

Just search for the same EZGO parts from an ezgo listing. They will be the same parts. The jacobsen model is identical other than the badges and logo's. If you search under MPT1200 or ST350, the parts you need will be the same.

I did wonder why you had a hot black wire in there and assumed it was for a headlight! Obviously non OEM and added by a previous owner. No wonder it confused you. I would have expected the blue wires we discussed previously. Your cart was not supplied new with lights otherwise they would have been there. It also did not have a fuel gauge, as there is no sender in the tank. It may have had an oil light in that hole by the ignition switch that now has a bolt through it. If so, there may be a wire ( maybe white ) that went to the sender on the fan side of the engine. The sender was always fitted with a short white wire coming out of the fan shroud, but was not always used on all models. I may miss some points during this build as I am using memory from twenty years ago lol. I have not seen or worked on EZGO carts since way back then!

[slonomo]

Cartmaster, this is good info thanks.

Yeah no lights, no fuel sender wire. This ignition switch just threw me for a loop how the wiring was routed, I still don't understand it. But it all works so I'll just move on

Yeah as far as parts....When I go to Country Cat it wants me to type in a model number. I used MPT1200 and it doesn't get me anywhere.

What model number workhorse would mine be equal to? Mine is a 2002.