Starter turns over sometimes

[smudvapor]

Hi guys, I read this forum quite a bit but I don't usually post anything but I am stumped. I have a problem with my Club Car and I thought I would ask all of you to get an idea of where to start. The engine runs fine but sometimes when I push the gas pedal, it won't turn over. Everything clicks and I see the starter wants to turn over but it is like it doesn't have enough power to do it. If I push and release the pedal a couple of times, sometimes it will turn over and run, and sometimes not. If I physically grab the clutch and turn the engine over and then push the gas pedal it will turn over with no problem and start. I just put a new battery in it. Has anyone ever heard of a problem like this before? Brushes maybe?

[crash12888]

You need to remove the starter generator and replace the brushes in it.
Also need to dress the commutator (where the brushes ride).
And what I mean is with the S/G apart, and probably with another set of hands, chuck the armature up in your cordless drill, lay the other end in a little notched piece of wood in your vise,
spin the drill and very lightly, with a fine file, dress or clean the commutator surface until smooth and no black lines.
Blow out and reassemble and should be good to go.

[smudvapor]

Originally Posted by crash12888

You need to remove the starter generator and replace the brushes in it.
Also need to dress the commutator (where the brushes ride).
And what I mean is with the S/G apart, and probably with another set of hands, chuck the armature up in your cordless drill, lay the other end in a little notched piece of wood in your vise,
spin the drill and very lightly, with a fine file, dress or clean the commutator surface until smooth and no black lines.
Blow out and reassemble and should be good to go.

Thanks, I was thinking it was something like that.

[nwocart]

Originally Posted by crash12888

You need to remove the starter generator and replace the brushes in it.
Also need to dress the commutator (where the brushes ride).
And what I mean is with the S/G apart, and probably with another set of hands, chuck the armature up in your cordless drill, lay the other end in a little notched piece of wood in your vise,
spin the drill and very lightly, with a fine file, dress or clean the commutator surface until smooth and no black lines.
Blow out and reassemble and should be good to go.

is replacing the brushes fairly simple? On my old ezgo i paid a shop to do it. how can I check to make sure they need replaced?

[crash12888]

You can sometimes remove the dust covers and inspect the brushes depending on things like location or rear seat.
If the brushes are even with the guides that hold them then you should replace them.
When someone says replacing brushes, you generally are servicing the complete unit.
I hope they did that for you, it's a quick fix but a waste of time to install new brushes on a unsurfaced commutator.
Generally, you remove the S/G and disassemble it, The front pulley and back housing is removed and the armature is removed.
Blow out the whole assembly and inspecting it. If the commutator (where the brushes ride) is burnt, worn or scored in any way you can chuck up in your cordless drill as stated above and clean it up.
Install new brushes or whole brush plate assembly however you buy it and reassemble.
Not hard, just takes time to do it completely and you will get another 20 to 30 years out of it....

[Fairtax4me]

If you have a voltmeter check the voltage on the white cable at the starter generator while it’s trying to start, and compare that to the voltage at the battery when trying to start. If it’s much lower at the starter you could have a bad cable or worn contacts in the solenoid.
Also you can check for voltage on the ground side of the starter while it’s trying to start. If there is voltage on the ground side it shows there is a poor ground.
Low voltage or a poor ground can cause the starter to turn slow or not be able to overcome the compression of the engine.

[Land Owner]

Low battery charge, loose/corroded connections, valve lash, and worn brushes each contribute to a "hard to start" engine. Take them in that order. You "fix" might not mean removing the generator from the get go...

[charlie99]

Originally Posted by Land Owner

Low battery charge, loose/corroded connections, valve lash, and worn brushes each contribute to a "hard to start" engine.

Valve lash? I don't see it. How so?

[Land Owner]

Compression against an exhaust valve that is still closed (poorly adjusted) when it should be open will preclude the battery powered starter-generator from turning the engine over - a hard start.

A poorly adjusted intake valve that is closed when it should be open will interrupt the flow of fuel from reaching the cylinder in the correct time to ignite (arrives after the spark has died) and if that valve is "the only" problem, it will run rough.

It is a matter of "timing" and the 0.005" of clearance in "normal" valve ops that is out of "time" by several thousandths of an inch (or more) can and will make a BIG difference in easy or hard starting.

I have a 26 HP Briggs&Straton SKAG mower engine that wouldn't turn over by itself without a battery assist from the PU truck. After the valve adjustment, no more problemo.

Adjusting the CC valves is easy-peasy compared to getting to the generator and changing the brushes.