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Old 07-30-2021, 06:20 PM   #1
schreib69
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Default 2004 Precedent engine and carb info

Lately the reliable Precedent I bought a few months ago started stranding my wife on our property. She uses it a LOT-- basically every day. I found most of the gas was down in the bottom of the fuel filter (air bubble in most of the filter)and figured that MUST be the problem. I had just changed the filter(she had been having problems before this though). So I injected about 100 ml of gas till it filled up and it worked. . . for a few hundred yards. Later I found the fuel valve was not in its preferred 10 o'clock position-- vertical was wrong. So I just corrected that and am now in the process of waiting and testing.

However, I appears to leak some gas and I am wondering if the float bowl gasket or the float bowl valve is leaking gas past itself.

SO, while I wait for more symptoms and stranding incidents it would be nice to have details on the carb, the engine, the electrical diagram too since I am on this. One more engine to learn!

If anyone can point me to carb specs, carb parts and ID etc, engine details-- tech. manual, specs?---, and the elec. diagram for the 2004 Precedent, I would very much appreciate it.
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Old 07-31-2021, 09:43 AM   #2
charlie99
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Default Re: 2004 Precedent engine and carb info

Manuals and other resources are available on the internet. Take a look at a link just posted here:
https://buggiesgonewild.com/showpost...3&postcount=14

Also, if you are more of a visual learner, the youtube channel 'Kevins golf carts' has a ton of helpful videos covering lots of common problems and corrections:
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCZ0...aclFsBPlKa9Bpg
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Old 07-31-2021, 01:41 PM   #3
Fairtax4me
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Default Re: 2004 Precedent engine and carb info

There's really nothing to the carbs on these.
Once you've had one apart you can practically "rebuild" them in your sleep.
I put rebuild in quotes because there's nothing to actually rebuild. Take it apart, clean it all out, put it back together. 99% of the time there is nothing that needs to be replaced, just the float needle and bowl need to be cleaned, and the main jet, main pilot tube, and pilot screw need to be cleaned.

The idle mixture screw is not removable, but generally doesn't need to be, since the porting for that screw is usually able to be sufficiently cleaned with a shot of carb cleaner and compressed air.



Generally in my experience, air pockets in the fuel filters indicate they are flowing well, as in there is no contamination/obstruction in the filter. A filter that is totally full is usually more suspect to me. Fuel/vapor pockets in the filters will often vary based on temperature and pressure, so it's not a great indicator to say one way or the other.
The best way to gauge actual fuel flow is to remove the hose from the carb and stick it in a clear bottle and crank the motor over. How much sprays out with every revolution of the motor?
It's very surprising how little fuel it takes to keep one of these engines running, so if there is any consistent flow at all from the fuel pump, it's generally more than enough to supply the fuel demand, even at full RPM.

Another thing to check is the pulse line that runs from the crankcase to the pump. This needs to have an uphill travel the whole way to the pump. If it has a dip anywhere in the travel, that dip can get filled with oil vapor from the engine and not be able to drain out, which will block the pulse and cause the pump to not operate. This tends to happen more when the engine is warm, and has been running. It can also happen if the oil level is high enough that it blocks the pulse port on the case. Usually if the oil level is that high, it's because of fuel dilution from the carb float stuck open and flooding the engine, which can usually be corrected by simply cleaning the carb thoroughly, and replacing the fuel lines and filter.
Or the diaphragm in the pump can ruptured and leak fuel directly into the crankcase from the pump. The easy check for that is to crank the engine for a few seconds and pull the pulse line off of the fuel pump. If there is liquid fuel in the pulse line or dripping from the pump then the pump has failed and should be replaced.
Either of these have the potential to fill the crankcase to the top with fuel, as well as hydro-lock the motor.
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Old 08-02-2021, 03:52 PM   #4
schreib69
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Default Re: 2004 Precedent engine and carb info

Wow, thanks guys. The manual is fantastic Charlie99. Entire exploded view of the fuel pump and carb. . . Fairtaxme's carb tech info is fantastic. I appreciate your input guys!
However. I may have found the problem. Two things:
1)One of the check valves in the fuel pump was partially folded over on one side. I removed the black rubber disc and ironed it out flat. Unfortunately, I tore it trying to press it back in. Ordered a new Chinese replacement(arrgggh.) but a bit later on found what may likely be the REAL problem-- you tell me.
2) I found a small tube running from the top of carb choke box inlet to the engine head was broken off, hanging loose-- like where a line on an old engine would have a PCV valve?!

Until I get the new fuel pump I won't know if it's fixed. I will pull off this tube if it works and see if THAT was the real problem all along.

NOTE: NICE largemouth fairtaxme! 10+lb?
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Old 08-02-2021, 05:18 PM   #5
schreib69
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Default Re: 2004 Precedent engine and carb info

Quote:
Originally Posted by charlie99 View Post
Manuals and other resources are available on the internet. Take a look at a link just posted here:
https://buggiesgonewild.com/showpost...3&postcount=14

Also, if you are more of a visual learner, the youtube channel 'Kevins golf carts' has a ton of helpful videos covering lots of common problems and corrections:
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCZ0...aclFsBPlKa9Bpg
I spent a couple hours watching Utube videos. Learned a Lot. Nice to see I am not the only one out there fixing by trial and error too. Kevin finally solved one problem with only replacing with fresh oil after pulling the carb, replacing a fuel pump, and removing old gas from the tank. So far, I have got a fuel pump on order and replaced all the tubes involved with fuel and the pulse line to pump. Hoping the pump is the REAL problem but learned the easy way to pull the carb with his video.

Thanks again!
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Old 08-02-2021, 05:19 PM   #6
schreib69
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Default Re: 2004 Precedent engine and carb info

Suggestions for OEM Mikuni Fuel pump replacement? I was forced to buy Chinese counterfeit on Amazon; can't find the "real thing".
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Old 08-02-2021, 06:36 PM   #7
Fairtax4me
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Default Re: 2004 Precedent engine and carb info

Look for a Briggs and Stratton pump or order one from David Hicks at Revolution Golf Cars. Site Sponsor, and a Club Car Guru. Usually has that sorta stuff in stock, but hard to say lately with the way things have been.

Are you talking about the small clear line that goes to the carb? The hose from the top of the carb is the vent hose for the fuel bowl. If that is clogged it will cause problems, but its supposed to hang down, or at least on the older carts it would just hang down from the carb.

There is a breather hose from the carb inlet to the rocker cover on the head, it's black, about 3/8" I.D, maybe 5" overall length. That one you do want to have, but it's not a huge deal if its split. Can usually be replaced with 3/8 transmission hose or fuel hose if need be.
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Old 08-04-2021, 05:41 PM   #8
schreib69
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Default Re: 2004 Precedent engine and carb info

Hey Fairtaxme great info and I used it.

Did not get your info on the fuel pump in time and ordered what appears to be a direct Chinese replacement, cast-in arrows and all, to make it a Perfect "fake"-- if so. It appears Mikuni must have licensed them. It is TOO perfect. It worked, but did not solve the problem. Before digging into the carb I pulled off the carb feed from the pump and ran in maint. mode and it pumped just great. PROOF of no fuel supply issue.

I removed the carb, soaked in Amine-based carb cleaner, piano-wired all the jets, flushed finally with Gumout carb cleaner and all is fine now. SO. The carb was the problem all along. I found that the float pin and the float were bound up so the float could not rotate about the pin. This agrees with the symptoms: weeks ago it would just die intermittently until finally it refused to go past 200 yds. Slowly, the pin was binding up the float until if froze. Gas was fine and clean but who knows how the jamoke who owned it last kept his fuel clean. . . or NOT?!

The good fake fuel pump was $15 delivered to my door-- Amazon NEXT day. Unreal. I hate Amazon but sometimes you just gotta' give 'em credit.
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