G16 requires choke to start/run. How fix?

[Don Greeer]

I am not 100% of model but I think its a g16 , But any way I changed the gas filter last Saturday and since than it will not keep what seems to be not enough gas to the carb or even the gas line its self . I have to use the choke hard , after making sure that what i thought was repriming the gas line to insure no air was traped I get it running and it runs great but once i get to a up grade i lose all power or if i just stop for a short time than try to go agian its back to choke city . It ran fine before this.

CAN ANY ONE HELP ME

[OregonMike]

I would start simple... Is the filter directional??? Maybe take the filter out of the loop and see what happens???

[ElC]

Well it is leaking air from somewhere, without question. Simple yet classic places, check the air filter, I read you changed it, remove the lid and check that there is a ridge where the lid compressed into to rubber air filter seal. If you replaced it wit a BU K&n style throw it away and consider it a lesson learned, replace with a paper filter or better yet a Carts Parts Plus re-usable air filter or Plowmans. Next once you are 110% positive that the lid is sealed, checked the 3/8 vacuum line from the valve cover to the air filter, just buy a new hose and two clamps… it is prone to cracking and does way more than vent the crank case. Next you can spray carb cleaner around the plastic carb neck that attaches to the carb and air box, if it's not cracked (you will not know until you remove the air box) They can leak at the base of the air box were there is a small rubber o-ring (place a smear of grease on it before replacing the air box). The carb cleaner MAY allow you to discover a leak. If not jump in and remove the air box, two nut at the base of the air box and two at the rear of the box, slide the assembly off the two carb bolts (carefully) and see what you have, you can make two new carb gaskets out of the back of a tablet (the carb board cover) if yours tore. The leak is there you just have to find it. With the carb off look to see if the tamper cover is on the idle mixture screw. If you are positive no-one has messed with it leave it alone, if not screw it closed and back it out 1-1/2 turns. Rarely should you need to use the choke for more than a second or to, most of the time not at all.
Hope this helps.
Eric

[Don Greeer]

Hey Eric

Thanks for the reply you touched on all of the things that i have done to my cart (and my bad it is a g1 not a 16 ) this weekend far short of replacing the head gasket???? . Let me add a little more to this see what you think , I jacked up my cart and tried starting it , started right up no problem . Let it back down it just laughed at me, it will try to fire but and the clutch will turn and turn the belt just enough to move me F OR R very slowly but will not go to a full run . If i push it a little or have it in a down ward posistion were it will coast than it will fire right off and run just fine until i start up a grade than it acts like the gov is coming into place to soon or could I have a bad head gasket???? I don't know how much compression these things are to have . I can work on a bike with no problem why are these thing so touchy , its my firs cart.

[sabercat]

elc what does the crak case vent tube do besides that?? i took mine off and i seem to be having the same issue

[crash12888]

Hey guys, jumping on the back of someones post is kinda confusing to those not looking for it.
Don, How about start a new thread with your question so all can focus on it and let Kola have his back so we can keep air filters and fuel filters seperate.
Thanks guys and welcome to BGW!!! Mitch

[Tmarti50]

What is the bu k&n air filter that you recommend not using?

[cgtech]

The k&n "direct fit" filters for Yamaha carts (that I have seen) is a total engineering failure. It doesn't seal up the area in the airbox where the engine actually breaths through. Like totally allowing unfiltered air that never even went through the filter to go in. Same as no air filter at all. But, on a positive note, it will never need cleaned..

[cgtech]

Factory shaped aftermarket "high performance reusable air filter", from AFE. It's pretty nice. Seal is a little stiffer than stock, but since it isn't designed to be thrown away in 6 months, that's understandable. I put a thin layer of "hardware store window seal strip" around the perimeter of the airbox lid just to be sure. This is the game to play when HP stuff is just required. The OEM air filter is really the best you can get (no cheapo China tune up kits). I have voided warranties for finding disintegrating crapo China filters on "still under warranty" carts with worn out motors, they were mad, I dont understand why.

The real OEM filter will have supple orange foam on the edges, with a "orange-tan" paper element for G16 to 2016 drive filter element. For some reason, a internet image search won't find the real one.

[cgtech]

K&n for G16 through 2016 Yamaha. Uhhh, what happened to that other part? It WASN'T Optional! That's the area that makes sure intake air actually went through the filter. Hint: K&N comes in purple.