1996 i put pds controller in dcs cart, do damage?

[paulpe]

Hi, I'm new here and was hoping someone could give me a little info. I accidentally baught the wrong controller for my ez-go txt 1996 cds golf cart and put a pds controller in it. The controller part numbers are the same 1206 sx. It drove a little but only in forward. I am wondering if i broke the pds controller or the dcs its. Thanks everyone.

[scottyb]

Hello,
They take the same controller but, different programming. The DCS cart may run too hot on the PDS map.
Likely no damage was done if it was insatlled correctly and just run for a short time... This is a good example of why I don't use buy now buttons on speed controls, it is too easy to get the wrong one or mismatched components

You can contact the seller and ask him to provide the correct map and install it yourself .... or contact ALLTRAX

[paulpe]

It's a Curtis controller and it looks exactly the same as the original however it has a sticker on it that states that it is for use in pds carts. I checked the output voltage at the white its wire at controller and it read 4.6 volts which should be (pedal pressed) 1.5 volts. I don't see how you can program this and i don't know what pds map means. Thank you for the help i really appreciate it.

[JohnnieB]

I think apples and oranges are getting mixed up here.

I believe scottyb is talking about aftermarket controllers (Alltrax) which use the same box for both DCS and PDS with different adapter (Interface) cables and have different programming (Map).

I believe paulpe is speaking about OEM DCS controllers (Curtis 1206sx), which are physically different than PDS controllers (Curtis 1206mx), and cannot be inadvertently installed in the wrong type cart because the control cables don't match. (IE: The DCS only has 1 control cable while the PDS has 5)

Sounds like the seller screwed up badly and put a PDS label on a DCS controller, so I question their QA process and therefore, all the products they sell.

As for the statement that the ITS input at Pin-1 (White wire) being 4.6V with pedal depressed and should be 1.5V.
The DCS specs state that the voltage should be between 0.45V and 0.53V when the throttle microswitch first clicks and then increase smoothly to ABOVE 1.5V as pedal is slowly depressed to full. So, 4.6V may be within the specs.

Check the voltage on Pin-2 (Black wire). It should be between 14V and 16V.

Something that I didn't see was whether or not your cart is running okay, or if your concerns stem solely from the mislabeling of the DCS controller you received.

[paulpe]

Thanks Johnnie B for the reply. I'll check the black wire voltage in a minute. The answer to your question is that the cart drove somewhat normal for at least several minutes but would not go in reverse. It would go forward in reverse. It stopped moving at all but the solenoid still clicks when foot pedal micro switch is engaged in forward or reverse. It's a 9 pin controller and looks exactly the same as the original b+ B- M- f1 f2 10 pin jack minus third from left making it 9 pin.

[paulpe]

The voltage at the black wire is 10.9 volts with pedal open or closed. The voltage at the white wire is 4.77 with the pedal open or closed. The reading will jump to 0 when going from pedal open to pedal depressed but then back to same voltages.

[scottyb]

OH I get it..... well you can't do this. Get the correct controller for your cart and let us know if damage was done? The ITS readings you are giving are within normal range.

[JohnnieB]

You're describing a 1206sx (DCSD) controller. I have no idea why someone put a label on it saying it was for a PDS.

Check the voltage at Pin-5 (Orange wire). It should be B+ when in Reverse and zero when in Forward.
That is what tells the controller to switch the polarity of F1&F2 and make motor spin in other direction.

If you've got B+ on Pin-5 when in Reverse and cart doesn't go backwards, the controller is bad.

[paulpe]

Thanks everyone for your help. The controller was mis labeled and the problem was two tiny fractures on the bottom of the its. I took the its apart, (which is a little difficult as it is a throw away part), and soldered past the fractures. It works fine now except that it drives forward while in reverse setting.

[rib33024]

switch the black and white wires