How do I find out the year of my ezgo

[motorman3000]

Thank you SOOOO much cart around. I figured out a couple things. First thing I figured out was some of the cable ends were in pretty bad shape. I replaced all of them. Tried to start it again and the choke cable kept turning BRIGHT orange!! The starter would not turn when it was attached to the engine. Lift the starter up off the engine, it spins free and acts normal. I pulled it out and tore it COMPLETELY down. I found 2 spots that had worn through and arcing, so it was grounding out when it was mounted to the engine. I repaired them and put it back in. Now it turns over and STARTS!!! I now have a carb issue. There is a nipple that comes out the top near the fuel inlet. While it is running, fuel sprays out that nipple. I am thinking the float is stuck, so I will tear it down tomorrow. Is there a way to disconnect the micro switch that is connected to the gas peddle? I would like the cart to stay running when I release the gas peddle. If I wanted to change directions I would just turn off the cart the change directions and restart. Thanks again for the help... I printed the manual off today at work.

[cart around]

That's a bad idea. You will ruin your belt.

[motorman3000]

How would it ruin the belt? Are these 2 stroke normally pretty loud? I have only had 1 other cart and it was a 4 stroke. Very quiet. Is there a reverse rev limiter? It is weird, in reverse it will zip right along. Put it in forward, it putts along like 2 mph, and no power

[cart around]

Running better in reverse is a common sign that the crankshaft seals are worn.

It's very easy to bypass the pedal switch to keep it running.
You would also have to adjust the throttle cable to keep the throttle plate slightly open.
There is a fine line between just running enough, and having the secondary clutch engage. Either way, the primary clutch always spins. It will wear down scallops in the belt causing rough running.

I also don't believe that the idle rpm is enough to generate power, so you will be operating on battery power while idling.

These carts don't have a neutral like a 4 stroke, so there is also the safety standpoint.

[motorman3000]

Ok. Pretty easy to replace the seals? Yes I know about keeping the idle low and it running on battery power while idling. My old 4 stroke did not have neutral either. I bypassed the switches on it. This is a little more confusing for me. With the 4 stroke, I just needed to disconnect the grounding wire from the micro switch so it would stay running. This needs power to the switch. I disconnected it and it wouldn't turn over. Ran direct power to the solenoid and it turned over, started and when I removed the wire it stopped running.

[cart around]

The solenoid needs to stay powered while running.

All of the switches (Key, pedal, neutral safety) are connected in series to keep the small terminals on the solenoid powered. You can bypass, or eliminate any of those switches as long as you complete the circuit.

I still have to ask. Since these engines were not designed to idle, what would be the advantage to make it idle? It's not a car. There's nothing to be gained there. It's killing the battery. I run my cart all Winter in below zero temps. I step on the pedal, and it takes off without a problem. So, I don't see any warming it up advantages either. The carburetor was designed without an idle circuit for a reason.

To change the seals the engine has to come out. That's about a half hour your first time. Then the flywheel, and clutch have to be removed. The time to remove those could range from minutes to days depending on the tools you have available, and your skill level.

The easiest way to remove the flywheel is a steering wheel puller, and an impact. There are metric threads to screw your pulling bolts in.

The clutch is on a tapered shaft. A long center bolt gets removed. You then stick a short brass rod in the hole, and screw a 3\4" fine thread bolt on top of that, or fill the hole with grease, and screw the 3\4" bolt on top of that. Either way, the clutch is popped off of the shaft. An impact is best for that too.

I just saw your profile. Send me a PM about your metal detecting. I've been on, and off for 30 years. Thinking about adding an XP Deus to the collection.

[motorman3000]

Well after some tinkering I fixed the fuel leak, the float was out of adjustment. The clutches I believe were locked up a little. After driving it around a little bit, it started picking up speed and take off power. I miss my 4 stroke cause it was a LOT quieter.

So after testing it out and taking it for good ride, I guess the start stop thing isn't that bad.

As for the metal detecting, I will message you at some point.