2004 ez go 295 runs great then will completely stall out

[trig123]

Originally Posted by Canucgolfer

Just brought the cart home from the course so will probably tackle that tomorrow. Tried to start the cart to loat it in my truck with no success. Put a new set of plugs in it and it fired right away. What would kill the old plugs like that?

Did you pull the choke ?

[Canucgolfer]

Choke with old plugs. Almost started then Just tuned over and over. Put new plugs in and without any choke it fired like it was brand new. Like I added to my last post. My son took it for a ride around the block and ran ok he said until he stopped then dead. It's now a tomorrow problem

[trig123]

Originally Posted by Canucgolfer

Choke with old plugs. Almost started then Just tuned over and over. Put new plugs in and without any choke it fired like it was brand new. Like I added to my last post. My son took it for a ride around the block and ran ok he said until he stopped then dead. It's now a tomorrow problem

I have found these MCI engines don't need choking most of the time. I have flooded a few spark plugs myself so I never use the choke on these models

[Cartmaster]

Originally Posted by Canucgolfer

What would kill the old plugs like ?:

Probably carbon build up on the ceramic cone inside the plug from burning oil vapour. Another clue ! This will cause the plug to track the spark away from the electrode and weaken the spark where you need it most. The clue here is carbon! Still waiting for pictures of inside the valve cover. That's the rectangular black bit right on top of the engine with six 10mm headed bolts. Remove the bolts, pop off the cover and take some pictures from different angles.no worries about gaskets as it has a rubber seal. We need to eliminate this bit first, then worry about the carb, as it's a simple, quick thing before dismantling carbs etc. (Requires gaskets etc)

Oh, and thanks for the vote of confidence Trig.

[Canucgolfer]

So pulled the carb and sprayed it carb cleaner thourouly. Blew it out with the air compressor and sprayed it again. Did not do anything with the Jets as far as removing them or trying to At least. Checked the valves and they were a bit out of whack. Some I couldn't get the feeler gauge under and some were super tight. I bought one as to play it safe. I only had .005 not .004 as the manual suggest so I just made a little more snug but still able to slide the gauge under the valve arm. (Pictures to follow). Put it all back together and too my surprise it took quite a while to get it going. I was thinking what the hell have I f'd up now. Finally did get it going and took it on several good rides without issue. The real test will be when I take it back to the course and how many rounds I get our of it before it happens again. Hopefully a million I will report back wig my findings. Sorry pic looks like it's sideways

[Canucgolfer]

My bad was only able add one pic. Here's another

[Cartmaster]

As you can see from your first picture, there is more thread showing above the locknuts on the inner two adjusters. As i suspected, your inlet valves are worn and moving up inside the valve seats. it looks like your carb was fine and your problem was the valve lash way too tight. As your valves are already worn, you will find you will be adjusting the lash more and more often as wear increases. the reason for running fine for a while and then starting to play up is basically that as the valves and seats warm up, you get more leakage past the valves and pressure builds up in the crankcase. Then oil vapours are pushed up through the PCV valve into the carb. On the older style air filter boxes, you could see this building up in the box, but assuming you have the later type air filter, your PCV valve is routed directly to a plate at the carb mouth. this setup does not give you any early warning of valve failure and hence your issue. These engines require a fully sealed air inlet system from the filter to the carb, otherwise dust gets in and wears the inlet valves. This is a common issue with the twin cylinder Robin engines in these carts. If replacing the valves seems a difficult job, its not! get the engine manual download from this site and read it. them go buy top end gaskets, seals and two inlet valves and some lapping paste and off you go. If this is done and the rest of the engine is in good shape, you will have another ten to twenty years good reliable service from that engine. I recommend changing the cambelt at the same time to prevent having to do it later. I am sure Trig and a few others, will agree. Do it now to save more trouble on the course a few months down the line. Just because it runs fine now, does not mean you have cured the problem, Just delaying the inevitable. The cost and time will be well worth it. No more dirty plugs and worry free golfing LOL. Good luck!

[trig123]

Originally Posted by Cartmaster

As you can see from your first picture, there is more thread showing above the locknuts on the inner two adjusters. As i suspected, your inlet valves are worn and moving up inside the valve seats. it looks like your carb was fine and your problem was the valve lash way too tight. As your valves are already worn, you will find you will be adjusting the lash more and more often as wear increases. the reason for running fine for a while and then starting to play up is basically that as the valves and seats warm up, you get more leakage past the valves and pressure builds up in the crankcase. Then oil vapours are pushed up through the PCV valve into the carb. On the older style air filter boxes, you could see this building up in the box, but assuming you have the later type air filter, your PCV valve is routed directly to a plate at the carb mouth. this setup does not give you any early warning of valve failure and hence your issue. These engines require a fully sealed air inlet system from the filter to the carb, otherwise dust gets in and wears the inlet valves. This is a common issue with the twin cylinder Robin engines in these carts. If replacing the valves seems a difficult job, its not! get the engine manual download from this site and read it. them go buy top end gaskets, seals and two inlet valves and some lapping paste and off you go. If this is done and the rest of the engine is in good shape, you will have another ten to twenty years good reliable service from that engine. I recommend changing the cambelt at the same time to prevent having to do it later. I am sure Trig and a few others, will agree. Do it now to save more trouble on the course a few months down the line. Just because it runs fine now, does not mean you have cured the problem, Just delaying the inevitable. The cost and time will be well worth it. No more dirty plugs and worry free golfing LOL. Good luck!

I am with this post 100%. Could not have said it better. You can have one of these engines out and on the workbench in no time. If you are young which I am not you can do it faster

[Cartmaster]

And if you can remove the clutch with the engine still in the cart, the valve job can be done without removing the engine. It can be a pain getting the bottom engine bolts and skid plate lined up to re install the engine lol.

[Canucgolfer]

Point well taken gentlemen. Just a question. Is the fix i did a 20 hour fix or more like a 100 hour running time fix. Only reason I ask is, will the cart in your opinion be ok for the remainder of the summer when I can do it in the offseason or something that may come back in a few weeks? I understand it's hard to give an accurate answer but just your best guess