2007 ezgo txt backfires and wont rev up

[trig123]

Gearhead56, wouldn't it be better if he took the original carb apart and did a complete cleaning on it ? I have found and I think you agree if you can use the original it is always better.

Sometimes one lucks out using the cheap aftermarket ones but I just like the OEM if it is still on it. I think the OEM's have a marking stamped on the throttle plate. China ones don't.

Otherwise it is hard to tell other than the china ones are cheaper made.

I worked at a golf course for 16 years and we had all gas EZGO's. !996-2012. There were many changes on these carbs .

One I remember is they would leak and according to what I was told there were cart sheds burned down because of this.

I know they sent a team from EZGO to our course and replaced probably 20 of these in the 2000's . Not sure exactly the year but I do remember them doing the upgrades. The main reason I remember this is I talked the team members into giving me a few they had left over :)

[meimk]

I put a stop to buying the cheap Chinese carbs. While I could normally clean out the manufacturing debris and get them to run, I had way too many that leaked. Opened 4 in a row to cracked float bowls. It seems someone in their factory likes to tighten the float bowl drain screws REALLY tight. Splits the side of the bowl and it's junk. When we complained to the vendor they refunded for them but didn't want them returned. It seems they knew all along they were junk and sold them anyway.

[Gearhead1956]

I agree hands down Trig,

rebuilt O.E. over new CHINA any day, and that's not just carbs!

But we all get sucked in at some point, $18 verses over $100 new OE.

[trig123]

That why I save those OEM's Gearhead1956. In a few more years at the rate these knock offs are being installed there won't be many OEM's left.

[2007EZGOTXT]

Can i see timing marks with out fully taking of clutch.
What else electrical could it be. I have tried 2 new carbs.

[meimk]

While it's possible it could be something electrical, like the ignitior module, that's a very high dollar part for your cart. Most vendors will price that closing on $700 & the cheapest I found on ebay was over $400 - and who knows where it comes from. Throwing random parts at it is a sure fire way to spend lots of money and cause yourself lots of frustration. Yes, it takes d=some work to get at the timing belt marks: clutch does have to come off, cover has to come off and the outer plate on the balance shaft gear has to come off in order to see the marks. But it doesn't cost you anything but time to check it out first. As mentioned earlier for it to be throwing flame out of the carb inlet it means that the spark is lighting the fuel mix while an intake valve is at least partly open. While that can happen because the of either spark timing (module) being off or valve timing / adjustment being off. I know I would check the mechanical parts before spending hundreds of $ on a guess.

[CP241]

Meimk has hit the nail on the head.

Diagnose and condemn a part before replacing anything. Otherwise you can very easily exceed the value of the cart replacing parts on guesses. Sometimes you may get lucky but more often than not it is just throwing good money out the window with no positive results.

I cant tell you how many project toys I've bought with a ton of new parts on them... magneto, coil, cdi module, etc. To find something that could have been fixed for free with a bad connector or connection, or something like the timing belt or chain slipped a tooth because the tensioner wasn't set properly. Usually something stupid and silly.

Wasnt long ago I bought a 2016 honda foreman 500 for $1500 because it wouldnt run. Ultimately the root cause was 1 power pin inside the connector had been backed out from the seated position and pushed back inside the connector so it wasnt making contact with the mating pin on the ecu. With the weather pack connectors you couldn't tell by looking at it because of all the rubber seals, and the wire itself had power. I repaired the terminal, seated it back inside the connector and it immediately fired up and ran great with no problem. While it did take a while to find it, shows that persistance and time saves money and potentially thousands of $ in guesses on parts.

[trig123]

Unless I missed it I have not seem one post about checking compression.

[Gearhead1956]

A video here would be helpful to show how and when it fires back thru the carb.

but still points to timing.

[big mule]

Originally Posted by trig123

That why I save those OEM's Gearhead1956. In a few more years at the rate these knock offs are being installed there won't be many OEM's left.

I'm right there with you,I tried 3 different new aftermarket carbs on a cart and experienced pretty much the same issues as the OP but when I switched to a cleaned up factory carb it ran like new with great acceleration & no backfires.I agree with checking the timing,valves etc.,I can tell you I'm through with the aftermarket carbs and will spend the $175 for factory when a cart needs carb replacement,I like to save money but some cheap aftermarket parts actually cost more in the long run .Of course this is just my opinion and your mileage may vary.