EH 292 engine swap options

[DisgruntledVet]

Hey all I just got a 2008 EZGO TXT with a EH292 engine. I woulds like to add a bit more power and I am sure there are not many performance upgrades for this engine so what are the swap out options? Is there a next size up that can just drop right in and bolt down? Or do they all require large modifications?

Thanks,
Dave

[CP241]

What exactly are you looking to gain? Torque? Speed? Is there anything wrong with your engine now causing it to not perform?

Clutching upgrades go a long ways for torque, and much cheaper than a new engine. If looking for top speed, wheel/tire upgrades help a good bit, if that's not enough they make 8:1 or 6:1 speed gears.

Having said that, a 350 from a workhorse will drop right in no problem. But its pricey and aside from a bit more torque wont make any more difference that clutch or other upgrades that come a lot cheaper.

Otherwise you're looking at a vegascarts or vanguard swap, which they make bolt-in kits for, but you wont really be able to take advantage of without the HS gears. Top speed is limited by gear ratio and governor in the transmission. Bigger engine without supporting modifications will top out the same speed, just get there a bit faster.

[raydhd]

Originally Posted by CP241

What exactly are you looking to gain? Torque? Speed? Is there anything wrong with your engine now causing it to not perform?

Clutching upgrades go a long ways for torque, and much cheaper than a new engine. If looking for top speed, wheel/tire upgrades help a good bit, if that's not enough they make 8:1 or 6:1 speed gears.

Having said that, a 350 from a workhorse will drop right in no problem. But its pricey and aside from a bit more torque wont make any more difference that clutch or other upgrades that come a lot cheaper.

Otherwise you're looking at a vegascarts or vanguard swap, which they make bolt-in kits for, but you wont really be able to take advantage of without the HS gears. Top speed is limited by gear ratio and governor in the transmission. Bigger engine without supporting modifications will top out the same speed, just get there a bit faster.

Not quite right. The VC 460 red lines at about 5500 rpms versus most stockers 4000-4500 rpms. The trans governor can certainly be bypassed. That along with tie torque difference it make the cart a whole lot quicker and faster.BUT you are looking at $1200 or so.

[DisgruntledVet]

It was not well taken care of and I have done the standard tune-up, oil change (no metal) etc and it runs okay. It occasionally backfires and it hesitates from time to time as well, any ideas would be welcomed. I would like to add just a little more torque and a touch more top speed, nothing crazy just was a little more, well more. So now knowing this what would you all suggest? Oh and thanks again

[CP241]

RAY is correct, extra rev's will affect top speed... but it sounds like that may be a bit more than you're looking to gain.

What kind of compression does the motor have? HAve you adjusted the valves to make sure they're in spec (I go .004 on the valves). Have you done a tune-up on it (plugs, clean carb, plug wires, air filter, etc)? That motor is pretty strong in stock form when running correctly. I had a TXT with the 295, it had plenty of torque for anything I ever needed and would run around 22mph or so, it was on 23" tires.


First step before trying to modify or upgrade anything, bring it up to par and make sure it runs like it is supposed to. Inspect the clutches as well... The drive clutch should move freely when you rev the engine, and the sheaves where the belt rides should be ruler-flat. a little wavyness is normal from wear, but if it's really wavy it may be time for replacement. On the rear clutch, inspect the sheaves for flatness, though the rear clutch is less prone to the wavyness. Inspect the ramp buttons, on the back of it where the spring is, there's little plastic "tabs". When these wear out or fall off, you'll have drastically reduced performance and power. You can get replacement ramp buttons pretty cheap.

Compression should be 160+psi on both cylinders. I always like to do a compression test before and after valve adjustments. The spark plug wires are probably original, though you can confirm because the OEM wires have the date printed on the wire itself, just like in cars.

[DisgruntledVet]

Okay sounds like I need to go a little further on my tune-up. Yes it has had the fuel and air filter replaced along with the spark plugs. No I have not replaced the plug wires or pulled the carb to clean it. Does anyone have a PDF for this motor or do they make a Chiltons for these things? I am a retired aircraft mechanic so I am pretty good with machines this is just my VERY FIRST experience with these. The tires it currently has are 22 x 11-10.

[CP241]

Did you order a "tune up kit" from ebay or Amazon, or buy parts individually? The reason I ask is because the spark plugs that come with those kits are chinese junk in sparkly boxes. Use a NGK spark plug (BP4ES)

As for cleaning the carb, it's about as complex as a lawnmower carb. There's no idle circuit or anything special. Just a main jet, emulsion tube, needle, float, and a couple air needles. Just remove anything with a screw (except for the one that stops the throttle plate) spray some carb cleaner inside all the passages and holes you can find. Blow everything out with compressed air and put it back together. The air valve usually is good 1.5 turns out from lightly seated but otherwise there really aren't any adjustments, it's a really simple carburetor.

Here's a repair manual for the engine. https://products.jacobsen.com/img/manuals/27615-g01.pdf

You really have to think of these as any small engine in a lawnmower, pressure washer, etc. It's no more complicated than any of them, though they are a lot more "finicky" with air/fuel mixtures (don't use aftermarket carbs) or with ignition parts (don't use aftermarket ignitor, ignition coil, solenoids, etc).

The plug wires may not necessarily need to be replaced, but I would at least inspect them closely to make sure there's no rodent snack holes or anything that could cause them to arc.


The biggest thing with these motors that nobody seems to do is valve adjustments, and MAN can something so simple as a 10 minute valve adjustment make a HUGE difference in how it runs. As said, I always like to do a compression test before/after but that's just me. It would definitely be worth doing a compression test anyway since the cart is new to you, just so you know where it's at.

When you DO do the valve adjustment, pay particular attention to the intake valves (the 2 in the middle). The intake valves are a bit "soft" and will wear down. Once you get valve clearances set to spec, look at the exposed threads showing on top of the adjuster nut. If there's noticeably more threads in the center 2 valves, you can plan to replace the valves in the future (which isn't that difficult of a job). IF they're all about the same, then you're good. Just set it and forget it for a year :)

[DisgruntledVet]

So I completed the valve adjustment and wow was it way out. Now it is running much better. Way less hesitation and more acceleration. Am i right that this a a MCI engine?

[CP241]

Yes, unless someone has replaced it in the past, it should be an MCI engine.

Easiest way to tell for sure is look at the exhaust. A MCI engine, the exhaust pipe bolts directly into the head. On a Pre-MCI motor, there is a header coming off the head that the exhaust pipe bolts to.

Valve adjustments make a huge difference, and as I said, most people never do it. I buy a lot of "projects" and I would say 95% of them the valve adjustment is way out when I get it. I've actually had some with zero compression at all because they're so far out. A few minutes of my time and like magic, runs like a top.


With the 295 running correctly, it's plenty of power for most people. It's a smooth strong little engine for sure. Even halfway taken care of, they'll last pretty much forever too. One thing I don't like about the design is changing the oil makes a big mess unless you remove the skid plate below it. But with a little care (and really doesn't take a lot) it should last you a very long time to come. IF it's still down on torque, measure the drive belt. When they start to wear down they don't grab so well, and torque will suffer. New (OEM) belt and good to go :)

[raydhd]

Another idea is to use 20-22" tires in place the stock 18 's " on the stock 8" wheels. IF the engine can pull the same revs there is a corresponding increase in top speed. Most carts you can get 20"s in there with out a lift. You can do just the rears for the cheapest speed increase.