Workhorse 350 Robin Rebuild/Rehab Project

[Rocketmp]

Originally Posted by trig123

Good job. I like to see people rebuild these engines and not buy rebuilt ones. They are simple engines. Don't drop anything small in that sink

Did you buy new intake valves ?

I appreciate that thought as thats how I feel about the cart/engine. I plan to enjoy the process and make it great again so my family can enjoy it some more. We spent 2 years building the house and shop, this is the 1st project Ive had time to enjoy and hope my boy takes to it. He likes that I've posted this so at least I have his attention although I had hoped he would watch and help in the rebuild.

Yes have all new valves, lapped them in tonight with all new seals, head is reassembled ! I did drop a valve keeper ( the last one) this was after forgetting valve seals; taking it all apart and reassembling a 2nd time. Almost gave up and finally found the keeper, All is Good

[CP241]

Originally Posted by Rocketmp

Thats a sweet find and tons of fun when they start running again im sure Not knowing any better im guessing that's a 2 stroke and you are happy its smoking again! lol

No smoke and it's a 4 stroke

And I just took the dumpy club car I bought for its maiden voyage a couple laps around my yard (about a mile)

I've done this once or twice ;) but that's all part of the fun of the journey.


Valve keepers and piston circlips are like ghosts. I always buy extras. Because its inevitable one or the other will vanish like a fart in the wind...

[Rocketmp]

Adding a canopy to my cart; struggling to figure out the rear support brackets. There are 2 options in the parts manual. Assuming the style that mounts to the seat upright is correct not through the body down to the frame. The part #'s 75838-G01 75838-G02. Also im not finding these specific parts online. Please send a link to a known correct part for sale. looking for front & rear and a black top,
2000 Workhorse ST 350

[Rocketmp]

Update: I believe the rings to have been the cause of the oil consumption. After cleaning the block and replacing seals I started prepping for assembly of the bottom end.

Measuring the old rings... Found them to be way out of spec, my feeler gauge doesn't go that big, like 3/16" of an inch! After that I tried a new ring and found it to measure .023 within spec. The bore dial gauge I ordered will be here this week along with the "Dingle Ball Hone" now knowing the new rings fit ill assume the cylinders are within spec. Plan is to use new rings, old pistons, and new BG rods.

Pics: New ring 2 old ring 3 clean parts ! 4 clean Parts!

[trig123]

Check those rings again with the feeler gauge
You said .023 is what you got or did I read that wrong.
That is too much

[Rocketmp]

Originally Posted by trig123

Check those rings again with the feeler gauge
You said .023 is what you got or did I read that wrong.
That is too much

Thanks for your post. I checked it again this morning after looking at the chart again you had me nervous.

both cylinders measure almost identical, .016 is tight and .015 slides through. I didn't notice the bottom part of the chart until this morning, it says .008-.016 with a limit of .040. Yesterday was inaccurate, I must not of had the ring perpendicular to the cyl.

Please review this and lmk your thoughts

[CP241]

Originally Posted by Rocketmp

Thanks for your post. I checked it again this morning after looking at the chart again you had me nervous.

both cylinders measure almost identical, .016 is tight and .015 slides through. I didn't notice the bottom part of the chart until this morning, it says .008-.016 with a limit of .040. Yesterday was inaccurate, I must not of had the ring perpendicular to the cyl.

Please review this and lmk your thoughts

You need to check the ring in 3 or 4 places in the cylinder. If you have a sliding T-square you can be sure you're in the cylinder true, if not eyeballing it should be close enough.

You're at the high end, but within spec. As long as it's within spec throughout each cylinder it should be fine.

And measure both the compression rings, as well as both the oil control rings. Don't worry about the squiggly spacer. The problem with aftermarket rings is the tolerances can be inconsistent, so measure all 8 rings to make sure you're good. Compression rings usually have a different end gap spec than the oil control rings do, I dont have the numbers handy but sounds like you've got the book so you should be okay



Edit: missed the image trig posted above. Make sure you're looking in the right hand columns under the EH35 motor, not the left side under the 295 motor. End gap is tighter on the 350 than the 295

[trig123]

Maybe pay someone at a machine shop to check the bore for you unless you got the tool to do it with. Your ring gaps are high.

The cylinder bore should be perfectly round and checked with a dial bore gauge in two or three places. I never checked using a ring but I guess you could. More accurate using the correct tool.
The engine I just got finished with had 0.012 on top ring ( 295 cc ), bore was prefect. I have a dial bore gauge.

[Rocketmp]

Originally Posted by trig123

Maybe pay someone at a machine shop to check the bore for you unless you got the tool to do it with. Your ring gaps are high.

The cylinder bore should be perfectly round and checked with a dial bore gauge in two or three places. I never checked using a ring but I guess you could. More accurate using the correct tool.
The engine I just got finished with had 0.012 on top ring ( 295 cc ), bore was prefect. I have a dial bore gauge.

I live in middle of no where Wy, no machine shop around. I have a dial bore gauge in the mail it should be here tomorrow so ill have some info on that coming along with old and new piston diameter clearances to the cyl wall.

Looking at the bottom chart im well within spec, book doesn't state what the bottom chart is for tho, strange....

[trig123]

Originally Posted by Rocketmp

I live in middle of no where Wy, no machine shop around. I have a dial bore gauge in the mail it should be here tomorrow so ill have some info on that coming along with old and new piston diameter clearances to the cyl wall.

Looking at the bottom chart im well within spec, book doesn't state what the bottom chart is for tho, strange....

The dial bore gauge will pay for itself, if nothing else just you knowing for sure if all is ok.
Keep us posted on how you are doing with this rebuild.