EZ GO Engine trouble

[LdocJohnson]

Im having trouble out of my EZ GO gasoline engine.It dont open up and misses.Ive put a new carb kit in and a new plug and it still does the same.It was running great and I lost the air screw out of it and it started running very rough.So I ordered a carb kit and put it in and it still does the same thing.So I need help.Any suggestions?

[popatop]

http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/ezgo-...djustment.html

[Dave Box]

You didn't say what year it is although refering to "a new plug" indicates that it is a 2 cycle. If you would like to give us a clue then we might be able to help you.

[LdocJohnson]

I think its a 1988 model. To me it sounds like the advice you gave to another guy about the microswitch. Do you have any pictures of the spring that you were talking about? Because that sure sounds like my problem too.

[Dave Box]

There is a picture of the switch in this thread

http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/gas-e...elaration.html

It is not going to be the microswitch as that is working otherwise the engine would not crank. The air scew should be wound (gently) all the way in and then unscrewed two turns. This is a start point for fine tuning but it only affects low speed running so if you have a problem a wide open it is not going to be that either. If it were me I would suspect that you have some dirt lodged in the jet of the nozzle. You may want to remove the carburetor and check those jets and nozzles again.
If you need step by step instructions just holler.
Dave

[LdocJohnson]

Ive had the carburetor off several times.I put a new kit in it.I took a air hose to it and blew out all the jets.And I can see through them.I really dont know what happened to it.We were riding it and lost the air screw and it started running rough.So of course we had to buy a kit because we couldnt just get the screw.So I put the kit in and it still does the same thing.We have put a new plug in it and still the same.My Father in Law said he mixed some 2 cycle in a gallon jug and put the gas hose in it and he said it did run some better.We are just so confused about it.I have worked on 4 wheelers and motorcycles my whole life but this thing is killing me that I cant fix it.When its running right it is very fast and climbs great.I need help. Thanks Dave for trying to help me.

[Dave Box]

Just to be really sure, you do realise that the main jet is actually the nut that holds the bowl on and the nozzle needs to be unscrewed from inside the carb and blown through. In addition you have checked that with the engine cranking you get a healthy pulsing jet of fuel into the carb (a trickle will not cut it). This is also a good test for your crankshaft seals so it is important that you verify the fuel flow. Is there a fuel filter in the line and have you tried to run without it in case it is blocked. The 2PG like all 2 cycles will not tolerate air leaks so you need to be positive that you got the carburetor on air tight with new gaskets or a bead of mastic.
Sadly my experience was that after many cleanings my carburetor was shot and replacing it cured all my issues. This of course was the final solution and I don't recommend it unless you are sure that you have explored every other avenue.
Don't lose hope there are many smart guys on this forum who want to see your Robin running again. In the meantime here is an image of your carburetor. I hope it helps.
Dave

[LdocJohnson]

Thanks Dave,I really appreciate your help.I put a new filter on it the other day and Ill check the fuel flow.And where I put the new kit in, It came with all new jets so I dont think its ant of them for they are all new.Everything in the carb is new but the float. The gaskets are new as well.So the carburetor is almost new and it still dont do good.It runs but misses.

[Dave Box]

Originally Posted by LdocJohnson

Thanks Dave,I really appreciate your help.I put a new filter on it the other day and Ill check the fuel flow.And where I put the new kit in, It came with all new jets so I dont think its ant of them for they are all new.Everything in the carb is new but the float. The gaskets are new as well.So the carburetor is almost new and it still dont do good.It runs but misses.

So if you are certain that the carburetor is all good (and once you have ensured that the fuel flow is good) then we should look at the ignition system which is quite simple. You have a pickup coil (pulsar) an amplifier (ignitor) and a coil. In your first post you said that it won't open up. Does this mean that it will run at say half throtle? It is fairly common for the coil to fail with all sorts of intermittent problems. However before we get too deep we should do the simple stuff first. I would recommend that you follow all the wires in the ignition and when you find a connector remove it, clean it, give it a shot of WD40 and see if that helps. If that doesn't work then the good news is that you can replace the ignition components with better stuff at a relatively low cost.
Dave

[BrewCityMusic]

Dave, as always you beat me to the punch by like an hour .....

Your symptoms are quite similar to the ones I had with my '88 prior to installing the HEI conversion and a new high-output coil (relax, it sounds rough but it's a $50 - or less - fix that you can install in well under an hour) - first, though, let's stay with the fuel issue because another issue I had early on was an air leak at the place where the pickup tube in the tank goes into the elbow (it comes from the factory as a pressfit, but after 22 years isn't as solid as it once was). Another thing to check (again, a free diagnostic) is to loosen the bolts that hold your muffler to the exhaust pipe so there's a 1/4" gap or so between them, then plug your ears and take a spin - these 2-stroke mufflers like to store all kinds of unburned oil and gunk, and when they start to plug will give you troubles thay mimic fuel delivery issues (which in a way they are, just on the "fuel out" side of the coin) - if that eases your trouble, search "muffler BBQ" here on the forums).

Lastly, before jumping into an ignition refit (and assuming you have followed Daves advice and troubleshot your connections as outlined above) do a triple-check on the grounding points from the battery to the frame and engine (not a bad idea to pull them and clean them up thoroughly even if they seem OK) - from what I've seen here on the forums and experienced personally, almost half the erratic ignition issues people have start right here at these ground points (if they're not perfect, the ground will try and follow another path such as your choke cable, etc which never works out so well).

Something of note, when these ignitions are acting up it's perfectly normal to check your spark and have it seem just fine, the troubles won't manifest themselves at low (turnover) RPM's, leading you to go nuckin' futs as soon as you start driving around.

Keep us posted