92 Club Car Rebuild (Help Needed)

[OLD MEC]

GLEEMO is correct the 36 volt motor will act like a high power replacement motor when you go to 48 volts. THANK YOU GLEEMO you caught me in another GOOOOF.
The shackles are for CC gas cart that uses a different differential so spacing is a little different. The front suspension can be adapted with a lift kit as spindles and hubs are the same ( IF you have shiny metal wheel bearing covers rather than black type that would require different hubs? ).
I know how hard it is to raise kids as we had 6- 5 girls ( very expensive ) and one boy ( more expensive to get out of jail and cars etc? ) So here is short list to cut costs.
OPTION #1
Replace your resistor bank with a Alltrax NPX4844 with throttle input of 5K-0 ohms controller 24 to 48 volts with 400 amp max rating ( about $260.00 ), small electronic resistors installed to your V Glide ( about $54.00 ), 4 guage 48 volt battery cable set ( about $165.00 ) REASON IS ( cables different for conversion from your resistors to electronic controller ), Solenoid resistor ( about $10.00 ) and Diode ( about $10.00 ), 250 amp battery pack fuse ( about $27.00 ) Minor wires of light guage ABOUT $25.00. This allows you to use your existing battery pack, V Glide unit, solenoid, F&R control, and motor, BUT prepares cart with better power, performance and battery charge range and ready for 48 volts addition later on.
OPTION 2
To go to 48 volts requires again the removal of your resistor board ( burns out very fast with 48 volts NO COST LABOR ONLY ) and the addition of small electronic resistors ( about $54.00 ) to your existing V Glide unit and purchase of solid state controller ( minimum Alltrax 5K-0 ohms input AXE 4844 400 amp ( about $350.00 ), along with the solenoid ( HD about $65.00, resistor About $10.00, Diode about $10.00 ), Battery pack fuse 250 amp ( about $27.00 ), again 4 guage cable set ( about $165.00 ). NEW QUALITY BATTERYS ( TROJAN OR CROWN about $450-$600.00 ) AND A NEW CHARGER FOR 48 VOLTS ( about $375.00 )
At this point unless I forgot some thing you could get by like this until you can afford HD parts? OPTIONS Alltrax AXE4855 ( about $550.00 ) and a HD F&R control ( about $114.00 ), OR to replace your V Glide unit either a CC MCOR conversion kit ( about $255.00 ), OR Curtic PB-6 ( about $125.00 )
NOTE ALL PRICES ARE APPROXIMATE, and by hunting around through forum sponsors prices can hopefully be cut?

[wardo5757]

Thanks for all the helps guys!! You got me thinking a lot! I want to go down 2 roads, crazy I know...
1st, I want to experiment. I am going to det rid of the resistor coils and go with a bank of automotive starter selenoids the will apply up to 72 volts to the motor in 12v steps. I have made a crude drawing of the circuit, please let me know if you guys think it will work.
2nd, after I toast my motor i want to do the setup that old mec has described. I've already bought a new motor, a 48v late model that will hopefuly replace my burnt motor. I will post a picture of it when I get it in so we can make a game plan for it.

Again, thank you! let me know what you think of that circuit..
http://http://i185.photobucket.com/a...-01-10_947.jpg[IMG][/IMG]

[wardo5757]

After looking at this picture (scotty posted it a while back) of the inside of the glider, I don't think I will be able to use all 8 steps. It looks like it will turn on two contacts at one time, If that happens it will cook the glider instantly. I may have to do a 4 step, leaving an empty contact between each step. what do you guys think?

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[OLD MEC]

Sorry the auto type solenoids will NOT last very long at all in continues use. They are only made for very few seconds of use and will burn contacts out, and field coils will overheat. NOTE If I see correctly by your drawing your V glide would have power to one solenoid all the time as you dont have space for a OFF ( at rest position?)
I would save your 36 volt motor as its much HD than 48 volt lighter wound motors and I have seen much better performance and speed with 36 volt motors feed 48 volts.

[wardo5757]

Originally Posted by OLD MEC

Sorry the auto type solenoids will NOT last very long at all in continues use. They are only made for very few seconds of use and will burn contacts out, and field coils will overheat. NOTE If I see correctly by your drawing your V glide would have power to one solenoid all the time as you dont have space for a OFF ( at rest position?)
I would save your 36 volt motor as its much HD than 48 volt lighter wound motors and I have seen much better performance and speed with 36 volt motors feed 48 volts.

1. You're absolutely right, I never thought of that. I will have to find another source of cheap solenoids then, maybe some from A/C's. I only want to experiment with this, not anything permenant.
2. I will need to add a rest position
3. Do you think I will destroy that motor running 72v thru it? Ididn't know it was that good of a motor and wouldn't want to destroy now?

[wardo5757]

these are pictures taken from the listing of the motor I bought.
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[OLD MEC]

With out proper ventilation ( need to cut opening at brush end and output end for over all venting and put in power force draft fan unit ) the motor even in good condition might not last very long.
You would need HD DC field coils and control contacts that are normally very expensive? Cheapest is golf car units that I know about?

[OLD MEC]

Does that motor have a speed sensor on brush end of motor as photo of motor below shows speed sensor pig tail? Unable to find that model number motor in factory parts book? If so its a IQ motor that requires a whole different way of controlling? This would mean a much more expensive programable controller ( that also controls F&R with rocker type switch added and the need for MCOR or Curtis PB6 pedal control unit to replkace your V Glide?

[wardo5757]

Originally Posted by OLD MEC

Does that motor have a speed sensor on brush end of motor as photo of motor below shows speed sensor pig tail? Unable to find that model number motor in factory parts book? If so its a IQ motor that requires a whole different way of controlling? This would mean a much more expensive programable controller ( that also controls F&R with rocker type switch added and the need for MCOR or Curtis PB6 pedal control unit to replkace your V Glide?

Those are the only pictures i have of the motor until I get it. the ad said it was for a 2002 and older CC. Yes, I was planing on buying the pb-6 and alltrax AXE 300 or 400 amp controller.

[wardo5757]

this is rev.2 of the circuit.
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