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Old 09-05-2013, 01:46 PM   #11
branman1971
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Soaked it in PB Blaster and heated it up and then beat it till it was out about 1/2 inch. That took a whole evening. Phew. Last night soaked it again and put heat to it and got it out about 4inches. Phew! See what happens tonight. This sucker is stuck like chuck!
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Old 09-05-2013, 03:18 PM   #12
granprix
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Default Re: Starter/Generator Removal

I just went thru this with my '89, I beat on it for a week and soaked it with PB Blaster every day. The bolt has a piece of angle welded on the end to keep it from spinning. The problem is the starter has aluminum ears and the bolt is steel and the tube its in is steel. I ended up cutting the bolt by the ears of the starter and getting the starter out of the way, then cutting the whole tube off with a cutoff wheel and then welding a 1/2"X6" pipe nipple back on the frame. I made a new bolt out of 7/16" all thread and welded a
1" piece of 3/4" angle on the end to make the keeper. I wish I had done this from the beginning, I wasted a week. Even after I cut it off and put it in a vise, I never got the bolt to break loose. Totally welded in place by rust.

The alumuinum ears won't take much heat from a torch befor you ruin the starter. This would be a waste of time anyway theres far too much rust to get it hot enough.
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Old 09-05-2013, 04:40 PM   #13
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That's good advice granprix. What did u cut the bolt with at the ears? Not much room in there for a saw.
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Old 09-06-2013, 12:52 PM   #14
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Default Re: Starter/Generator Removal

I just went thru this with my '89. I had to cut the bolt with a sawsall next to the ears on the starter to get the starter out of the way, then cut the tube with the bolt in it off of the frame with a cut off wheel. I welded a piece of 1/2" pipe back on the frame for a new tube and made a new bolt by welding a piece of 3/4" angle on one end of 7/16" all thread to make a keeper. Even with the cut off piece in a vice, i couldn't break the bolt loose. I wasted a week and a whole can of PB Blaster before I got mad enough to finally fix it. This problem is a combo of rust and crud in the tube and unlike metals being next to each other for years and years. The ears on the starter are aluminum and can't take much heat.
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Old 09-06-2013, 12:53 PM   #15
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Default Re: Starter/Generator Removal

I used a sawsall with a good 32tooth hacksaw blade
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Old 09-06-2013, 12:55 PM   #16
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Default Re: Starter/Generator Removal

Sorry for the double post. I posted my reply first yesterday but it didn't show up on my computer so I did it again, then both showed up?????
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Old 09-07-2013, 10:06 AM   #17
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Well I finally got it out. Brushes were halfway worn down so put some new ones in and hopefully that will fix the hesitation when i step on the pedal. Gonna remount it with all-thread and see what happens. Thanks guys!
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Old 05-20-2020, 08:44 PM   #18
jm26133@yahoo.com
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Default Re: Starter/Generator Removal

I am having the same problem, can someone advise how to remove bolt?
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Old 03-16-2024, 01:41 AM   #19
tonkajuris
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Default Re: Starter/Generator Removal

Exact same problem with my 1989 EZGO. Trying to remove S/G and I have the head that has the metal plate (catch) on the end. I have doused with PB blaster, heated, impact, air chisel... over and over again. I finally got it to pop and now it turns about a 15°, only 345° to go.

I found that if you bend the metal lock plate straight you can use a 1 inch wrench to rotate the bolt.

:EDIT I know this is an old post but I thought I would add any info I find helpful to the discussion.
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Old 03-18-2024, 02:25 AM   #20
tonkajuris
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Default Re: Starter/Generator Removal

I did have success getting that ***** bolt out but I don't recommend even trying. This took me about 5 hours to accomplish. You will need the following.
1. Penetrants (PB Blaster or WD-40)
2. Map Gas (or Propane)
3. Cold chisel (I used 1/4"; or large flathead screwdriver)
3. 1" wrench (or 10" crescent wrench)
4. Small drill bit (I used 1/8")
5. Punch (1/2" cold roll steel or anything really to punch the bolt out)
6. Hammer (I used a BFH)

If your starter/generator S/G won't budge you'll need to free it up first. Start with soaking it in penetrant and get it moving. Then use the cold chisel or screwdriver to pry the tab out away from the S/G (see pic # 2). Use the 1" wrench to try and rock the bolt back and forth (pic #3). Mine popped and I had about 15° of travel for about 2 hours. Now get the Map Gas and point it away from the S/G as best you can. You don't want to heat up the case of the S/G; it will ruin it. Lastly drill 6 small holes along the pipe that holds the bolt (pic #4). Use penetrant and heat to try and free up the bolt. Screw the nut on the threads until flush with the top and hammer it out with the punch. I installed a couple of grease zerks in the drilled holes and filled in the others. Then I went to the local hardware store and purchased a new bolt. They are all zinc plated instead of a threaded steel rod. What were they thinking? I greased up the bolt and tightened it up. Good luck and let me know if you try!
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 1_carriage.jpg (120.6 KB, 0 views)
File Type: png 2_bolt_head.png (1.34 MB, 0 views)
File Type: png 3_wrench.png (1.47 MB, 0 views)
File Type: png 4_drill_holes.png (1.55 MB, 0 views)
File Type: png 5_success.png (1.57 MB, 0 views)

Last edited by tonkajuris; 03-18-2024 at 02:28 AM.. Reason: clarify
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