EZ Go Constant Green Light On Controller

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by Rock213

I haven't had time to take full readings yet. It will be after lunch before I can get them done. Until then, I did some quick ohm readings set at 200 and stud F1 and F2 2.0 ohms, studs A1 and A2 no reading at all.

After lunch I will get all of the readings and post. Thanks yall for all of the guidance so far.

You have a bad Motor. (Brushes ???)

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by Drrhein

I have this same setup and controller so went out and looked.

key off - led off

key on - led off

push pedal until solenoid engages - led flashing green (Number of flashes indicate the throttle type the controller is programmed for.)

push pedal slightly more - led steady green (LED goes to steady Green after throttle type ID is flashed, or goes to a Red error code.)

push pedal until cart moves - led steady green

Did not try wot.

getting voltage with key off is important. Check controller ignition pin (pin 1). This voltage should not be there with key off. Solenoid should not be on either. Will go off for shift F/R so that part is normal. I think the path is: battery to keyswitch>to F/R switch microswitch>to pedal microswitch> then to Controller pin 1 and solenoid.

intermittent pedal microswitch a possibility. some kind of short another. I saw a voltage meter short out internally once which caused voltage to appear at the ignition switch output even when the switch was off - THAT took a while to find!

just thoughts.

Dennis

Dennis, you are describing the power up sequence of a Series drive system with an Alltrax AXE or NPX controller, Rock213 has a PDS (SepEx drive system) and the power up sequence is different.

[Drrhein]

Yes, you're right - I missed that.

D

[Rock213]

Originally Posted by JohnnieB

You have a bad Motor. (Brushes ???)

That is what I figured with no reading at A1-A2. I will be pulling the motor shortly and post pics of my findings. Thanks

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by Rock213

That is what I figured with no reading at A1-A2. I will be pulling the motor shortly and post pics of my findings. Thanks

While waiting for the motor to be repaired or replaced, maybe we can figure out why the DCX400 controller isn't powering up the way DCX controllers in PDS cart typically do; And why the solenoid clicks before the pedal is pushed when the cart is sitting still.

Am I correct, you used a standard PDS to DCX adapter from Alltrax?

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FWIW: The difference between the early 2000 PDS carts with the F/R by the driver's knee and the later ones with the F/R on the dash by the keyswitch is the position of the F/R switch and where the wires in the cart's wiring harness go. The Early F/R is the mechanical equivalent of the SPDT/Center-Off type rocker switch used in later PDS carts, so the wiring at the controller end of the early PDS cart's wiring harness is the same as later PDS carts.

Attached are a picture and a parts breakout drawing of the early PDS F/R switch, which looks similar to the later version of the DCS F/R switch, but is mechanically and electrically different. When the cam is rotated in either direction, only one set of microswitch contacts are closed. (With the DCS F/R switch, one microswitch closed for F and both closed for R - the same as the F/R for a Series drive, but uses the N.O. contacts rather than N.C. contacts the Series drive F/R uses.)

Basically, your installation ought to look about like the one shown in the third attachment, which shows the DCX400 that was in my cart a while back.

[Rock213]

I think the issue has been found. Brush completely gone. Now I need to figure out what all part I need to fix and get them ordered.

[JohnnieB]

Is the commutator damaged?

If not, it looks like one of the brush holders is trashed, so you will need a Brush Plate and Box Assembly as well as a Brush Kit, and while you've got the motor apart, you might as well replace the Bearings.

I think these are the parts you need, but verify when ordering.
Also, you may find them cheaper someplace other than EZGO.

https://shop.ezgo.com/products/Brush...-Assembly.html

https://shop.ezgo.com/products/Brush...ement-Kit.html

https://shop.ezgo.com/products/Advan...r-Bearing.html

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You might also want to consider send your motor to Plum Quick for a rebuild.
http://www.plumquick.com/

[Rock213]

http://www.buggiesunlimited.com/golf...holder-kit/522

Found this kit. Looks like it has everything I may need othe than the bearings. What do you think?

[JohnnieB]

From an engineering point of view, I prefer brushes that are wired directly to the studs rather then those with an additional connection in the wiring.

[Rock213]

Alright guys, lets dig into this

Originally Posted by JohnnieB

While waiting for the motor to be repaired or replaced, maybe we can figure out why the DCX400 controller isn't powering up the way DCX controllers in PDS cart typically do; And why the solenoid clicks before the pedal is pushed when the cart is sitting still.

Am I correct, you used a standard PDS to DCX adapter from Alltrax?

That is correct. My wiring harness looks like yours in the picture

------------
FWIW: The difference between the early 2000 PDS carts with the F/R by the driver's knee and the later ones with the F/R on the dash by the keyswitch is the position of the F/R switch and where the wires in the cart's wiring harness go. The Early F/R is the mechanical equivalent of the SPDT/Center-Off type rocker switch used in later PDS carts, so the wiring at the controller end of the early PDS cart's wiring harness is the same as later PDS carts.

Attached are a picture and a parts breakout drawing of the early PDS F/R switch, which looks similar to the later version of the DCS F/R switch, but is mechanically and electrically different. When the cam is rotated in either direction, only one set of microswitch contacts are closed. (With the DCS F/R switch, one microswitch closed for F and both closed for R - the same as the F/R for a Series drive, but uses the N.O. contacts rather than N.C. contacts the Series drive F/R uses.)

Basically, your installation ought to look about like the one shown in the third attachment, which shows the DCX400 that was in my cart a while back.

I see a couple of differences. I do not have a resistor or diode on my solenoid. What do they do and what size would I need?
Also I see you have a different solenoid than I but I notice on your small studs you have the blue wire on the left and the yellow on the right. Mine are just the opposite. Went next door and checked my neighbor's who has a stock controller and his is wired like mine. Does the configuration of the yellow and blue wires on the small studs make a difference?