Ezgo ITS Troubleshooting

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by Bmatlock00

Looking at this guide from alltrax it appears at solenoid click 14v between pins 2 and 3 is normal with no wires attached. With the ITS wires attached 9v is not normal though. Are there any more test I can do, or should I try replacing the ITS first then controller next? This has me stumped, as most controllers that I've seen fail have been total failures instead of intermittent. Also I've heard the ITS rarely ever fails.

The guide is from EV Drives rather than Alltrax, so it would be best to verify EV Drives' tests and conclusions with Alltrax. The EV Drives data may be 100% accurate, but the only way to know for sure is to contact Alltrax.

What Scotty said about the controller setting the voltage range for the ITS is true, but the voltage range is end result of the same sensor being used in totally different ways by different controller manufacturers. IE: The ITS throttle signal voltage of EZGO flavored Curtis controllers increases when the pedal is pushed with the ITS throttle signal voltage of EZGO flavored Alltrax controllers decreases when the pedal is pushed. Not only the voltage range is different, the change in voltage is in the opposite direction for the same physical action.

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Intermittent problems are difficult to troubleshoot because the only time you can troubleshoot the problem is when it exists and the problem only exists when the cart is misbehaving.

At this point, all we know is that the solenoid clicks when the cart won't run and that the cart will run with the ITS signal being 9V pedal up and 6V pedal down.

Semi-permanently attach a DVM's test leads between the B- and M- terminals on the controller and drive cart until it misbehaves. Then, while the cart is still misbehaving, check for having full pack voltage between the B- and M- terminals when the pedal is pushed just far enough to make solenoid click.

If you don't have it, there is an open somewhere in the high current circuit. F/R contacts, motor brushes, bad cable or connection, bad solenoid contacts.

[radioman]

Disconnect wires from ITS module in pedal box. With the connector still pugged into the controller, measure voltage at pins 2 & 3. It should be the same as you measured in your post 18. (14 volts). If it is lower you have some leakage between the two wires between the controller and the pedal box fooling the controller there is some pedal input when there is none. The controller don't care whether it is voltage being pulled down by the ITS or leakage between the black and white wires. Different controllers act different. My old cart would haul a$$ when I pressed the pedal because of 5000 ohm leakage between the ITS wires. It would even run with the ITS disconnected. Problem was inline connector wet and corroded hidden among some wet leaves under the controller, the first thing JohnnieB suggested to check which I didn't do. I will never forget the experience I gained troubleshooting this. In addition when I cleared this problem the cart would not run which proved to be an intermittent no go ITS. Leakage problems can also interact with the pedal switch circuit in the same inline cable connector.

[Bmatlock00]

This morning I went to drive the cart and it was not working. I attached my meter between the B- and M- post and was getting pack voltage at solenoid click and it did not decrease as I pressed the pedal. After pressing the pedal 3 or 4 times the cart lundged forward. So I got on the cart and just rode about a mile with the meter attached, and it ran perfect. Guess I'm going to ride some more...

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by Bmatlock00

This morning I went to drive the cart and it was not working. I attached my meter between the B- and M- post and was getting pack voltage at solenoid click and it did not decrease as I pressed the pedal. After pressing the pedal 3 or 4 times the cart lundged forward. So I got on the cart and just rode about a mile with the meter attached, and it ran perfect. Guess I'm going to ride some more...

Okay, that pretty much narrows it down to a bad controller or a bad throttle.

Clip your DVM test leads to Pins 2 and 3 and check what the throttle signal does when the cart is misbehaving.

[Bmatlock00]

Just rode the cart again until it quit, the readings between pins 2 and 3 while the cart was not working read the same as when the cart is working. 9 volts at solenoid click then it decreases to a little until 6 volts with the pedal on the floor. I also took radioman advice and checked voltage at the pedal box with ITS wires detached. It read 14 volts at solenoid click. It is looking like a bad controller to me, do you agree?

[JohnnieB]

Sure does point to a bad controller.

Basically, you have pack voltage between B- and M- that doesn't decrease when the pedal is push and you have a throttle signal that does decrease when the pedal is pushed, so the controller isn't doing what it is being told to do.

I'd replace the controller at this point.

[radioman]

JohnnieB will need to make the call on this one. I see he replied while I was posting. I would agree with his call.

[Bmatlock00]

Thanks again guys. I just ordered a new controller and will report back with results when I get it installed. I am selling this cart to my aunt, that lives over 300 miles away, so I have to be certain the problem is fixed before she takes it home. Hopefully this fixes it.

[mike.houston]

We have ezgo cart j201-1407801, Curtis 1206 controller. they had hooked battery connection up backwards and now nothing works. We wanting to find a download manual to trouble shoot the controller?? can anyone help with that ? thanks Mike

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by mike.houston

We have ezgo cart j201-1407801, Curtis 1206 controller. they had hooked battery connection up backwards and now nothing works. We wanting to find a download manual to trouble shoot the controller?? can anyone help with that ? thanks Mike

Welcome to BGW!

According to the EZGO serial number lookup site: https://shop.ezgo.com/customer-servi...ialNumber.html

The serial number you posted belongs to:
Make: TXT
Type: Electric 36 V
Model: TXT Standard (PDS)
Year: 2001

So you have a 2001 TXT PDS.

You can dowlaod the Service, The Parts and the Owner manuals here: http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/elect...g-manuals.html
They are the three PDF file near the top.

If the Curtis 1206MX controller was connected backwards, chances are high that it is now a boat anchor.

If it is, an Alltrax XCT48400PDS is an excellent replacement. It'll kick the top speed up to about 24 MPH on stock height tires at 36V as well as increasing the torque considerably.

http://www.cartsunlimited.net/alltra...-controls.html