Intermittent power loss

[imarealgolfr]

Well Scotty got my main problem fixed. I have been having intermittent power loss for awhile but it seems to be getting worse. I have a series cart and I have a voltmeter mounted in my dash that is hooked up to the first and last batteries directly. I can drive my cart for awhile with no problems,but it will occasionally buck and quit but start right back up. It won't completely stop,just buck and take pick back up. When it does this my voltmeter goes to 0.0 but then comes back to 36.7 or whatever it's at when I'm going. I can't seem to figure it out. Can't find a loose wire anywhere. Could it be the reed switch,cutting in and out? Getting aggravated. Thanks for any suggestions

[JohnnieB]

Since the voltmeter is connected directly the the battery packs main Positive and Negative terminals and it reads 0.0 when the cart misbehaves, the problem is in the 5 high current cables that connect the batteries together, or possibly the battery posts.

[imarealgolfr]

Checked all my battery cables and everything was tight. I wiggled the black and white wire that run from the charger box and it would make my voltmeter to go to zero but can't find anything wrong with them. It's real bad on a bumpy road. I can't seem to find anything. Any other ideas?

[JohnnieB]

If your DVM is, in fact, directly connected to the first and last terminals of the six batteries connected in series, then wiggling the black and white wires from the cart's charge receptacle simply cannot cause the meter to drop to 0.0V.

On the other hand, if the positive lead from the DVM is connected to the 60A fuse instead of directly the the main positive terminal, then an intermittent fuse could cause the meter to go to 0.0V and the cart would quite working while the black wire was electrically disconnect by the bad fuse.

Do you hear the solenoid click when the cart misbehaves?

Please post pictures of battery pack and DVM connections to it.

[scottyb]

Yes, the fuse is subject to corrosion and failure. Replace it.
If the problem persists replace or bypass the charger receptacle reed switch.

[imarealgolfr]

That has to be it!
That's the only thing I didn't check
Can I get one at an auto parts store?

[scottyb]

The fuse - maybe yes. the reed switch, no.

I have a new reed switch for somebody.

[JohnnieB]

Maybe. MEGA fuses are used in some cars, but I'm not sure if 60A was a value used.

littlefuse mega 60 amp -- EZGO part# 602632

https://www.amazon.com/EZGO-602632-M.../dp/B00KY0B8U2

[imarealgolfr]

Fellas,I think I have it narrowed down to my switch. I checked my fuse and my voltmeter was hooked up at the battery. I could stomp on the floor and it went to 0.0 back to 39.2. Did a little tapping on the dash and it would blink. Took the switch out and couldn't find anything loose. There is a wire that goes to the v m from the switch that turns it of. I had the wife drive around the yard while I tapped on the switch and it would act up. Need to order a new switch it seems. That would cause my problems,right? I put it back in and tightened in down real tight,took it for a spin and it didn't act up.
Thanks for your help

[JohnnieB]

You have your DVM miswired. If it is a three wire unit with a remote ON, it should turn off and go blank if you lose power at the keyswitch.