1987 EZ Go Marathon not reving up

[jashworth14]

Just picked up a 87 gas marathon. I'm new to golf carts and small engines etc. when I got the cart it was not running. I was told that it was running when parked and it sat for 3 months. I put in a new fuel pump, carb, fuel lines, battery, and I cleaned out the gas tank. It now runs but doesn't get enough RPMs to engage the clutch so it won't move. It's reved up a few times enough to engage the clutch but that's it. It''ll backfire and the eventually flood out. Also, the battery seems to not be staying charged even though it's a brand new 12v. What are some possible problems with my cart?

[cart around]

It sounds like it is running on the starter, and not actually running.

Compression should be 120 psi down to 100.

A good steady spark is essential.

Pull the fuel line from the carburetor. Crank it over to see if it's shooting a good healthy spurt. You already changed the pump. If it doesn't shoot a healthy spurt, you are looking at crankshaft seals.

Even if it does shoot a good spurt, it probably still needs seals.


Here is an 85 manual. Everything is the same except the 87 has an extra microswitch mounted to the FnR switch. It's turning over, so you don't need to be concerned with that.

[jashworth14]

It fires up though so would that still mean it is running on the starter? Also, would that explain why the battery gets drained? Thanks for your reply!

[cart around]

This is what it sounds like when just running on the starter. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_7TzN00VZQg

Let us know about that, and also check fuel, compression, and spark.

[BrewCityMusic]

when You press the pedal, the cart "starts" and turns over but isn't actually "running", it's just turning over with the starter - which will drain your battery fast. Those older 2PG-engined carts are notorious for crank seals going bad, but the good news is that it's pretty easy to diagnose.

Get some WD40 or starting fluid to start. Jack up the rear of the cart so it doesn't run away on You if it starts, then while You press the pedal and turn the cart over, have a buddy spray a little of the WD or Starting Fluid into the front fan of the motor, then at the rear of the motor where the shaft exits the engine (between the clutch and engine itself) ... If either results in the cart "revving up", then that particular seal is bad and needs to be replaced. Try that out and let us know what You come up with first

[jashworth14]

It does sound like that video except for when it backfires. That would make sense why the battery gets drained. I have 40:1 fuel in it right now because that's what the previous owner said to use, although I just found out that I should be using 128:1 right? Could that be part of my problem? I'll check the spark and compression once I get a compression tester and let you know.

[jashworth14]

Also, I'll try that test on the crank seals and let you know what it does. How hard are crank seals to replace?

[BrewCityMusic]

To replace the seals is a bit of work but nothing *too* technical, You'll label all the wires and hoses then remove them, remove the exhaust and belts, then unbolt the engine and remove it (much easier than trying to do it in the cart). Once You've gotten the engine out, You will remove the clutch, front engine cover and flywheel (sounds daunting but it's really not) and then pry out the old seals and install the new ones. With a set of hands to help, You're probably looking at around an hour and a half to two hours from start to finish.

Run the tests first before You get ahead of yourself though, while it sure does sound like seals, there are still several other much easier fixes that it could be.