PDS solenoid question

[gymnocar]

2001 36 volt EZGO PDS , the solenoid is being energized by the F/R switch not the ITS pedal box microswitch.
New solenoid & resistor as of yesterday, still being energized with key on, F/R in F with no pressure applied to the accelerator pedal.
Cart ran fine until last week.
Any ideas what might cause this ?

[scottyb]

I believe that is correct. The solenoid will energize with the F&R and after a minute drop out and pick up with the pedal.

[gymnocar]

Thanks for the quick reply ScottyB.

For some reason the solenoid is staying energized by the F/R and not dropping out. This family has two PDS carts so I checked with the other and with key ON in F or R , I don't hear the solenoid click until I depress the pedal. On the cart in question with key ON the solenoid clicks as soon as you choose either F or R on the dash.

I got 38 volts pack voltage. Changed the solenoid and resistor thinking it had welded contacts. The new solenoid does the same things as the old.
I've got pack voltage at the Yellow and Blue small studs with key On in either F or R.

Trouble shot for a few hours today using the technicians manual, but can't get far due to the solenoid being energized anytime the F/R rocker is moved.
At a lost as to whats causing it ?
Will try again tomorrow.

[yurtle]

Bad throttle MS? Check continuity. Could also need adjusting, which is covered in the service manual in the Stickies.

[gymnocar]

Thanks for the reply Yurtle. I've rechecked the throttle ms 3 times, thats the first place I generally check on these carts. the problem still exists even if the ms red or green wire is disconnected.

I'm going to see the owners this weekend will try to get more info as to what led up the problem in the first place. They don't seem to know much about the their carts. I hope he doesn't tell me it was towed it, I doubt they even know what the RUN/TOW switch is.

Mike

[scottyb]

Trace the yellow wire and find out why it is hot without the pedal box input.
It may actually be a controller failure?

[JohnnieB]

Activating the solenoid on a PDS is a two step process and the controller controls both of them.

First, B+ is applied to the yellow wire by the controller. Usually this occurs after the key is turned on and a direction is selected on the F/R switch, but can occur any time the controller deems it necessary, as long as Run/Tow switch is in Run position.

Second, B- is applied to the blue wire by the controller. Usually after pedal switch contacts close, but can occur any time the controller deems it necessary, as long as Run/Tow switch is in Run position.

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Check the in-line connector between the pedal box and cart wiring harness. It only takes a little cross-talk between the red and green wires to generate a false pedal down signal.

[gymnocar]

Thanks JohnnieB

I'm still waiting on the owners to show up here at the lake, wanna get more info as to what was done before I started down this rabbit hole.

I'm really starting to lean toward controller failure but will get all four wheels off the ground and inspect the wiring from top to bottom. They did have a rat chew up some wiring in the past so this could be a carryover from that.

I'll post what I find at the end of this ordeal maybe it could help some else.

I wanna thank ScottyB , Yertal and JohnnieB for their input and assistance. I've been turning wrenches for 40+ years but sometimes I really get stuck and need a little help from the real Pros.

I'm from the resistor coil and two dozen microswitches golf cart era.

Mikey
Peace Out

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by gymnocar

I'm from the resistor coil and two dozen microswitches golf cart era.

Mikey
Peace Out

The PDS drive system is two, perhaps three, generations removed from that era.

It is essentially a fly-by-wire system. Steering and mechanical braking are about the only things not controlled by the controller.

[nottley471]

Hi , did you ever figure this out I have identical issues!