The crappiest 2010 rxv here

cgtech · 10-19-2018, 02:55 AM

Ewww, yuck, another fill system. But to each, their own. I do love the name of the thread for a build. I started from a $200 cart with a seized motor. (Which I broke free and ran for over a thousand miles once it had oil in it again).

I'm happy to see yours coming along!

bryanwood74 · 10-19-2018, 09:03 AM

Yeah I plan on manually checking the water levels, it was free with batteries so I threw it on there... ;)

bryanwood74 · 10-26-2018, 05:00 PM

Well, I'm back... I got everything put back together and can't get the cart to make noise of life... No solenoid clicking, no reverse buzzer, and I am praying the danaher isn't dead...

I've checked the run plug is inserted correctly, pack voltage is good, checked the ohms of each leg of the motor and that reads 0 ohms, the brake ohms reads 25.5, the brake and throttle switch continuity tests are good, don't know what else to check. I don't have a handheld scanner but found one on Ebay cheap and ordered it.

Anyone got any advice?

bryanwood74 · 10-26-2018, 05:03 PM

Btw the body is still off and haven't hooked the charge receptacle back up, and I don't think that would cause this right?

PingEye3 · 10-26-2018, 05:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cgtech

If converting, I suggest the steel tray, not aluminum (from Ezgo, or aftermarket). If buying Trojan, be sure to get T-875 or better, not the lower rated "DC 8v" version.

But, that is a real good price on T-1275 (make sure they aren't the lower rated T-1260).

Cgtech - Just wondering why you don't like the aluminum replacement battery tray. I have yet to see a CC DS battery area that has been compromised with corrosion. On the other side, I have yet to see a TXT tray (in my lithium conversions) that isn't in terrible shape. Most have had the T bar in the middle rusted completely thru, which I have to remove for the pack anyway. Thus my reasoning for the aluminum replacement.

Just curious, not meant to be a challenge in any way.

BTW bryanwood74 - Nice Build!!!!

cgtech · 10-27-2018, 07:09 PM

Wow, I have seen many, many club cars with the batteries literally falling out the bottom. No joke. And it's not that I "absolutely wouldn't use" the aluminum one, I just feel the steel one should last longer.

bryanwood74 · 10-27-2018, 08:20 PM

A couple photo updates

bryanwood74 · 10-27-2018, 08:22 PM

A few more and maiden voyage

10-19-2018, 02:55 AM	#31
cgtech Over This Interview Is... Join Date: Jun 2012 Location: AZ Posts: 17,449	Re: The crappiest 2010 rxv here Ewww, yuck, another fill system. But to each, their own. I do love the name of the thread for a build. I started from a $200 cart with a seized motor. (Which I broke free and ran for over a thousand miles once it had oil in it again). I'm happy to see yours coming along!

10-19-2018, 09:03 AM	#32
bryanwood74 Getting Wild Join Date: Sep 2018 Location: AL Posts: 85	Re: The crappiest 2010 rxv here Yeah I plan on manually checking the water levels, it was free with batteries so I threw it on there... ;)

10-26-2018, 05:00 PM	#33
bryanwood74 Getting Wild Join Date: Sep 2018 Location: AL Posts: 85	Re: The crappiest 2010 rxv here Well, I'm back... I got everything put back together and can't get the cart to make noise of life... No solenoid clicking, no reverse buzzer, and I am praying the danaher isn't dead... I've checked the run plug is inserted correctly, pack voltage is good, checked the ohms of each leg of the motor and that reads 0 ohms, the brake ohms reads 25.5, the brake and throttle switch continuity tests are good, don't know what else to check. I don't have a handheld scanner but found one on Ebay cheap and ordered it. Anyone got any advice?

10-26-2018, 05:03 PM	#34
bryanwood74 Getting Wild Join Date: Sep 2018 Location: AL Posts: 85	Re: The crappiest 2010 rxv here Btw the body is still off and haven't hooked the charge receptacle back up, and I don't think that would cause this right?

10-27-2018, 07:09 PM	#36
cgtech Over This Interview Is... Join Date: Jun 2012 Location: AZ Posts: 17,449	Re: The crappiest 2010 rxv here Wow, I have seen many, many club cars with the batteries literally falling out the bottom. No joke. And it's not that I "absolutely wouldn't use" the aluminum one, I just feel the steel one should last longer.

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