My 2PG Rebuild with pics

[BBBHC]

Looks like a great rebuild! Wow that piston...makes one wonder what they used as a substitute for oil!!!

[CP241]

Originally Posted by BBBHC

Looks like a great rebuild! Wow that piston...makes one wonder what they used as a substitute for oil!!!

My guess... oil injection pump failed.

Nice build and great pics. Motor looks great, gonna be Better than new!

[MICKEYMOTORMOUNT]

Originally Posted by BBBHC

Looks like a great rebuild! Wow that piston...makes one wonder what they used as a substitute for oil!!!

Yeah, how 'bout it. He did say it ran when parked. He just didn't say how well.

Originally Posted by CP241

My guess... oil injection pump failed.

Nice build and great pics. Motor looks great, gonna be Better than new!

Thanks... I hear alot of owners who have had bad experiences with the oil pump. Believe it or not, it is the same pump used on Rotax twins in watercraft and snowmobiles. I have had very good success with them. I own multiple skidoo sleds and Sea Doos. All have original pumps on them and have not failed. I think the key is to not let them run out of oil.

[Dabble Inn]

I like the mods, I'll admit I was a bit skeptical at first with using the Polaris piston and having to cut the port but I'm not skeptical anymore. Sorry bout that and Great job!! ...

Another thing I noticed in your pics that I must ask about for others, I've seen it a lot when peeps are attempting to do a top end job they lose/trash the wrist pin spacers. I guess they're assuming the kit comes with new ones but they don't, and until now I didn't believe they were available anywhere. I saw in your pics the Polaris piston kit has them, I would assume they're the same size? If so maybe you could post up the part number for others, Thanks

BTW, I'm probably the one you mentioned that had the case broken all the way through when I rebuilt mine. Seems rather common huh?, Glad you caught yours a little earlier.

Again great job and Thanks for all the pics, Can't wait for more

[MICKEYMOTORMOUNT]

Hi Dabble. To answer your question about the wrist pin spacers, I got them on Ebay. The originals were somewhat trashed, just like the piston. I got the numbers off of a Polaris website. Here's the original part number: 3081720.

Here's the original listing:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/POLARIS-308...72.m2749.l2649


I think (not sure) aftermarket EZGO pistons have a wider wrist pin boss inside the piston where the top end of the connecting rod goes, eliminating the need for spacers. If you are lucky enough to get an original EZGO or Polaris(FUJI) piston, you will need them.


Without the spacers there is alot of side-to-side play in the connecting rod. I would be leery of running without them for any length of time.

[Dabble Inn]

Ouch on the availability of those spacers, Seems a bit hit & miss but Thanks (for others) for the part#. You might be right with some of the pistons out there needing them or not, I'm not sure but I know mine had to be reused. I'm still so surprised beings the piston, rings, bearings, seals and even the crankshaft etc are all readily available but those dang spacers are so hard to find, I always tell people to save everything until ya have new replacements in hand.

[MICKEYMOTORMOUNT]

Originally Posted by Dabble Inn

...... those spacers are so hard to find, I always tell people to save everything until ya have new replacements in hand.

Very good advice. I did see some more on Ebay, but they can be a bit pricey. I would have gladly used my old ones but they were scored so badly that I figured I better start looking for some new ones. Luckily, I found them.

[MICKEYMOTORMOUNT]

While waiting for some advice on the reed cage, I figured I'd move onto the clutch. Here are some pics:



The cover clearly shows the part number




Alignment marks for reassembly(3dots). Also note the roll pin hole on the center of the spider.




Here's what was lurking inside the cover.






Roll pins removed from spider.



Home made tools to disassemble the clutch.



Clutch attached to holding fixture in vise.






Spider removed. Notice the red locktite that holds the spider on. Heat, penetrating oil and leverage are your friends here for removing.

NOTE: Don't do the rookie thing that I did. I tried to remove it by turning counterclockwise. Clutch spider is attached with left handed threads. TURN CLOCKWISE TO LOOSEN AND REMOVE.




Another pic of the home made grunt tool. It definitely helped having the extra length.

[MICKEYMOTORMOUNT]

Now that it's apart, it's time to look at the parts to determine what I need to get it back to operating condition.






Spider roller holes are all egged out.






Socket used to remove the moveable sheave fiberglass bushing.




Casting date. 88 If you are unsure of the year of your clutch, you may have a casting date inside like this one. This is off an 88 Marathon.





After a few minutes with the wire wheel, it looks like this.



After polishing with 2000 grit wet/dry paper it looks like this. I'm not really liking what I see either. Definite wear in the area where the fiberglass bushing rides when the sheaves close up.

[Dabble Inn]

Great post, dig the pics and the progress report... I don't remember my 85 having that type of Comet clutch originally but it does now after I replaced it years ago.

I still wonder though, IF they sold me one for a 4 cycle. To me it seems to engage a bit early, I tried to get a reading of engagement once and it was around 1000-1200rpm if I remember right. Do you have any idea what the spec is for that? Or maybe when you get yours all done you could see where yours is engaging....

I would think it should be more like 1700-2000ish rpm for these 2 cycles