2014 ezgo rxv lightning strike

[MUDSLINGER250]

Originally Posted by BobBoyce

It's likely a motor brake issue or the controller was spiked by the lightning strike and had inputs damaged.

I know before I was having a brake issue but it was due to moisture in the coil housing. If it is controller inputs damaged what would be my options on fixing that, just a new controller all together or can one in that shape be fixed. Thanks.

[MUDSLINGER250]

So to rule out if it's a brake issue I have a new brake ordered. I know this will be frowned upon but only reason I done it is because it's basically gonna be a test piece so I didnt wanna blow 150 bucks on a new brake. I ordered a brake from flip manufacturing for 70 bucks. I know it may not last long term and I'll order a OEM brake at a later date. But if I put this on and the cart acts the same I'll know to go another route. Itll be a while before I'm back working on it. Going outta town next week.

[yurtle]

I know nothing about RXVs, but did you ever conform whether the storm took out your battery charger? Wouldn't want go go too long without charging.

[MUDSLINGER250]

The charger was working. I put a meter on my battery pack it 51.2 volts and when the charger kicked on it went to 58.2. I'm guessing that's what it's supposed to go to. My charge meter also showed a increase in charge after a few hours. I think what I forgot to do though was reset my timer that the charger plugs into. Since mine has no float I have it where itll turn off for 15 minutes everyday and turn back on to keep charging. I've had alot goin on this past week so my brains not as sharp as usual right now. After posting that about the brake I thought when I went back up I coulda just pulled the brake and homed it. Ugh to much right now.

[cgtech]

Originally Posted by MUDSLINGER250

So to rule out if it's a brake issue I have a new brake ordered. I know this will be frowned upon but only reason I done it is because it's basically gonna be a test piece so I didnt wanna blow 150 bucks on a new brake. I ordered a brake from flip manufacturing for 70 bucks. I know it may not last long term and I'll order a OEM brake at a later date. But if I put this on and the cart acts the same I'll know to go another route. Itll be a while before I'm back working on it. Going outta town next week.

I hate to poop on your parade, but the only aftermarket brake I ever tried didn't even work once. So that wouldn't be a foolproof way to test either....

[MUDSLINGER250]

Well the OEM one I have now has a gap in the plastic coil casing that let's moisture in it. So I guess it doesnt matter if you spend 70 or 250 it might be a piece of junk either way.

[MUDSLINGER250]

Update to this. Just installed new OEM brake cart still lurches forward nothing after that. Also does the same in reverse just a jump and nothing else. Cart can be pushed in tow mode and neutral. Also has brake release by swapping 3 to 1 plug. Pack voltage 51.3 volts. Soc meter showing 100% charge. All I know to do from here trailer it let somebody with handheld do some looking.

[BobBoyce]

Originally Posted by MUDSLINGER250

Update to this. Just installed new OEM brake cart still lurches forward nothing after that. Also does the same in reverse just a jump and nothing else. Cart can be pushed in tow mode and neutral. Also has brake release by swapping 3 to 1 plug. Pack voltage 51.3 volts. Soc meter showing 100% charge. All I know to do from here trailer it let somebody with handheld do some looking.

It sounds like maybe the motor brake driver FET could be defective. That would also lead to overheating of the motor brake coil. The only way to know is to run diagnostics. Where are you located?

[Mooncarter]

Are you sure that solenoid is clicking in and out like it's supposed to?

[MUDSLINGER250]

Originally Posted by Mooncarter

Are you sure that solenoid is clicking in and out like it's supposed to?

That's the one thing I know for sure I put a new one in and it has a nice solid hit when energized. And reading voltage across terminals.