2001 Ezgo txt shuttle 2+2 changing to 48v question

[yurtle]

Originally Posted by georgia088

Is this what you are saying?

NO. The highlighted wires are all that change. High amperage cables remain the same. See attached.

The file names indicate 32 volts and 40 volts. Concern with 32 volts would be the solenoid coil may be too weak to pull in and maintain at a reduced voltage. May not be a problem.

[georgia088]

AHHH! That makes sense!!!!(I think) so, the only thing you are changing is You are taking the red wire from the "interlock switch" and by passing the positive terminal on the charge receptacle and connecting it to 32 or 40 volts on the battery pack.

This allows the activation of (small amp draw) the solenoid and the controller with the lower voltage, but once the controller/solenoid activates the main terminals that it has activated will be the full battery pack of 48 volts. I like that!! I'm just a little slow. It takes me a little while to understand. I may definitely try this! Thanks a lot! Let me know if I still am not understanding.

[yurtle]

Originally Posted by georgia088

AHHH! That makes sense!!!!(I think) so, the only thing you are changing is You are taking the red wire from the "interlock switch" and by passing the positive terminal on the charge receptacle and connecting it to 32 or 40 volts on the battery pack.

This allows the activation of (small amp draw) the solenoid and the controller with the lower voltage, but once the controller/solenoid activates the main terminals that it has activated will be the full battery pack of 48 volts. I like that!! I'm just a little slow. It takes me a little while to understand. I may definitely try this! Thanks a lot! Let me know if I still am not understanding.

Yes. Slow is WAY better than clueless. That's not meant to offend, I'm clueless about a lot of things, like Mohr's Circle. I'm not ignorant - which can be cured - I'm just dumb. Prof. said either learn this or hire an expert. No middle ground.

For clarification, just moving reed switch power from port to battery 5/6 positive. If you haven't done so, you may want to completely bypass the reed switch.

[georgia088]

Ok. I think mine is wired differently than the wiring diagram and/or screwed up. This is what Ive got:

(red wire coming out of charging receptacle is ran to the f&r switch, but it isn't connected. AND it works without it being connected. the two switches that are connected to the f&r switch have one wire that runs to the controller (orange). If it is disconnected from the controller the cart will still work. However, if you plug the red wire in from the charging receptacle to the small switch on the f&r switch the orange wire will send 48v when the switch is in reverse, but not in forward.

There is a red wire coming from the foot pedal switch through the solenoid to the controller that will send 48v to both of them when the pedal is pressed. I am thinking this is the one that I need to track down to switch to 32 or 40v????

Also, I have no idea what the purpose of the orange wire is for? It seems to work fine with out any of the small switches on the f&r switch connected???

Any guidance is appreciated!!

[yurtle]

Originally Posted by georgia088

Ok. I think mine is wired differently than the wiring diagram and/or screwed up. This is what Ive got:

(red wire coming out of charging receptacle is ran to the f&r switch, but it isn't connected. AND it works without it being connected. the two switches that are connected to the f&r switch have one wire that runs to the controller (orange). If it is disconnected from the controller the cart will still work. However, if you plug the red wire in from the charging receptacle to the small switch on the f&r switch the orange wire will send 48v when the switch is in reverse, but not in forward.

There is a red wire coming from the foot pedal switch through the solenoid to the controller that will send 48v to both of them when the pedal is pressed. I am thinking this is the one that I need to track down to switch to 32 or 40v????

Also, I have no idea what the purpose of the orange wire is for? It seems to work fine with out any of the small switches on the f&r switch connected???

Any guidance is appreciated!!

Orange is 1/2 speed reverse. That will be corrected when you power the circuit by battery 32 or 40 volts. Disregard wire from charging port. Sounds like the reed switch was bypassed be running a separate wire from pack positive. The red wire from the FNR MS2, will be connected to battery 32 or 40 volts.

Let me know if you need more help. Your controller looks different, but wire colors should be the same. Power in red, 1/2 speed orange, ITS black and white.


You do need to figure out what was done. Pack positive to orange should always work. The fact that it runs without reed switch red wire means controller and solenoid are getting power from somewhere. With red wire disconnected, turn off key and place FNR in Neutral. Try pressing pedal. Does solenoid click? Does it run? DUMMY. It can't run in N. Then try the same with FNR in N, key on, then FNR in F or R, key off. Nothing should happen.

Does reverse beeper sound always? Mine sounds with key off, no pedal.

EDITS in bold red.

[bobbycason]

Originally Posted by georgia088

Ok. I think mine is wired differently than the wiring diagram and/or screwed up. This is what Ive got:

(red wire coming out of charging receptacle is ran to the f&r switch, but it isn't connected. AND it works without it being connected. the two switches that are connected to the f&r switch have one wire that runs to the controller (orange). If it is disconnected from the controller the cart will still work. However, if you plug the red wire in from the charging receptacle to the small switch on the f&r switch the orange wire will send 48v when the switch is in reverse, but not in forward.

There is a red wire coming from the foot pedal switch through the solenoid to the controller that will send 48v to both of them when the pedal is pressed. I am thinking this is the one that I need to track down to switch to 32 or 40v????

Also, I have no idea what the purpose of the orange wire is for? It seems to work fine with out any of the small switches on the f&r switch connected???

Any guidance is appreciated!!

I think the orange wire is the half speed reverse wire. Yurtle already answered that

[georgia088]

Alright. I was getting pack voltage from multiple places. The wiring on this thing was all screwed up. But, I think I’ve got it corrected. I currently have 40v from pack -> ms2 (switch on f&r switch) ->key switch -> foot pedal switch -> solenoid -> controller. All of those switches must be activated to get 40v to the solenoid and controller. If in reverse ms4 (other switch on f&r switch) is also activated sending 40v through the orange wire to the controller. This (y’all tell me) gives half power in reverse. I think i got that right I typed it from memory.

Now, I have a couple other questions. This cart has factory installed head lights and tail lights. They are activated by the key switch (turned one click past on). There are two blue/white wires that are connected to the switch that control them. The lights are being powered from +16v from battery pack through a fuse bar. Is this correct? I didn’t think you were suppose to draw your voltage from two batteries only because they would discharge faster than others in the pack. I thought you needed some kind of transformer? 36-12 or 48-12 volt? Depending on pack voltage.

There are also wires connected to brake pedal. But they have been cut. Did this come equipped from the factory with brake lights? If so, where was switch located I can’t find one?

Thanks again!!

[yurtle]

Originally Posted by georgia088

Alright. I was getting pack voltage from multiple places. The wiring on this thing was all screwed up. But, I think I’ve got it corrected. I currently have 40v from pack -> ms2 (switch on f&r switch) ->key switch -> foot pedal switch -> solenoid -> controller. All of those switches must be activated to get 40v to the solenoid and controller. If in reverse ms4 (other switch on f&r switch) is also activated sending 40v through the orange wire to the controller. This (y’all tell me) gives half power in reverse. I think i got that right I typed it from memory.

That sounds exactly right. Does backup beeper behave correctly? I hope you have 48 volt nominal and not 40?

Originally Posted by georgia088

Now, I have a couple other questions. This cart has factory installed head lights and tail lights. They are activated by the key switch (turned one click past on). There are two blue/white wires that are connected to the switch that control them. The lights are being powered from +16v from battery pack through a fuse bar. Is this correct? I didn’t think you were suppose to draw your voltage from two batteries only because they would discharge faster than others in the pack. I thought you needed some kind of transformer? 36-12 or 48-12 volt? Depending on pack voltage.

There are also wires connected to brake pedal. But they have been cut. Did this come equipped from the factory with brake lights? If so, where was switch located I can’t find one?

Thanks again!!

I don't know anything about factory wiring, so can't help with what used to be the brake switch. There may be a box of some sort that has a timer, so parking brake won't keep brake light on indefinitely. Maybe the switch died and they just cut the wires. Try and trace them and see where they go.

I do know they used to tap two 6 volt batteries for 12 volts. Best bet is to buy a reducer from a site sponsor. I bought one from ScottyB. It has a "trigger" wire, which you can feed from the key switch's second set of contacts. Run pack positive to the same set of contacts. This will allow reducer to be activated in the key switch's third position. Run the reducer's output to a fuse block with a negative bus. I bought a Blue Sea fuse block from a local West Marine. Marine grade is corrosion resistant, moisture resistant, and has a negative bus, since boats don't have metal battery grounds, like cars do.

[georgia088]

Yes, the beeper works as it should. Not sure what you mean by Nominal voltage?? Remember, I'm pretty dumb when it comes to all this stuff.

Thanks.

[yurtle]

Originally Posted by georgia088

Yes, the beeper works as it should. Not sure what you mean by Nominal voltage?? Remember, I'm pretty dumb when it comes to all this stuff.

Thanks.

I just used nominal to mean +/-. It really means "named". 48 volts is technically 50% SOC, or dead. Pack positive is more accurate, but when you said 40, I was asking whether you meant pack voltage.