Knockoff g1 clutch issues

[Backroadbomber]

Slonomo, thanks again so much for all the help. I really appreciate it. So here’s what happened. I took out the spacer i had on the spring, and 3 pucks. In neutral, it seemed to engage at a higher rpm. And i thought everything was good. I could put the cart in gear and hold it still with the brakes, but it took ALOT of brake pressure to keep from rolling. Ok, so just for kicks and grins i took out another 3 pucks. In neutral, the clutch would only engage about 1/4 of the way. Ok, so i made an executive decision. I figure I could mess with this clutch, spend 100 or so dollars and order a ton of different springs and pucks and try all kinds of combinations until it just works. And then, most likely, it would do only that- “just work.” So i figured screw it, i ordered a genuine (i hope) 780, a shaft adapter, and a new engine mount plate. I figure might as well do it right. Luckily i got the clutch cheaper than the current eBay price of $120, so maybe i can get $50 for it from someone who actually has a Proper working g1. Still having a tough time finding a bolt to remove it, though. 9/16-18 doesn’t fit, and the finest thread m14 i found had a pitch of 1.50, which won’t thread in but wants to. I couldn’t find anything finer locally, so i ordered a bmw lug bolt that’s 14x1.25. I hope it’s not m14x1.00 because i cannot seem to find any bolts that size. Worse case scenario I’ll take a 3 jaw puller and hopefully get it off without breaking anything. I’ll have to find an alternate way to hook up a starter/generator But i think i have a kind of goofy idea on how to do that. Thanks again for all the help. This thing has been an on-again mostly off-again project for 3+ years for me, and I’m looking foreword to getting it in useable condition.

[slonomo]

You can't go wrong with the 780, as long as it's genuine. The removal bolt should just thread into the clutch and bottom out on the crank, then pushes it off. DO NOT use a 3 jaw puller! You will surely ruin the clutch by doing that.

I am a big proponent of using the correct tools. I would recommend getting a Comet 94c Duster clutch puller tool.

If you want to try without the correct tool:
I believe you need a 9/16 fine thread bolt, say 2-3" long, then you need a thinner piece of aluminum or brass rod, like a 1/2" solid rod, maybe 5 1/2" long to slide inside. You slide the rod in, that will bottom out on the crank. Then you thread the 9/16 bolt into the clutch until it bottoms out on the rod. Tighten with an impact driver. It should just pop right off.

Check the threads on that first. Get the 9/16 fine thread bolt and gently thread it in by hand. If it goes in 1" you're good. If it binds at all, do not use that bolt.

I have thread chaser tools I use to check threads, but they are expensive. You just have to buy the bolts and mark them so you know what they are. If you buy one metric and one standard, put a piece of tape on them and mark them. If you mix them up and accidentally use the wrong one, you'll ruin the threads on the clutch and you'll be up a creek.

[slonomo]

Here's my thread from 2013 about removing the 94c.

https://www.buggiesgonewild.com/showthread.php?t=79202

This is a pic of the removal tool. Money well spent IMO. That's what I ended up getting.

Comet #205817a (puller rod only)
Comet #205840a (puller kit)

[Backroadbomber]

Thanks, but as i said before the threads weren’t 9/16-18. I actually was using thread chasers i borrowed, and the m-14x1.50 would almost kinda fit, so i bought a bolt that size and it would thread in about 1/4 turn and stop. That’s why i thought it was m14x1.25. Regardless, i got frustrated and impatient, and i ended up using a large pickle fork between the clutch and the engine and it popped right off. I mean, it’s only been on for about 1.5 hours total of run time, anyways. My 780 should be in tomorrow, and the other parts either tomorrow or Tuesday so hopefully I’ll have it atleast running and driving this week.

[slonomo]

Well glad you got it

[Backroadbomber]

Well i got the comet 780 in, as far as i can tell it’s genuine. Man, what a difference! Wish i wouldn’t have been such a cheapskate and just went this route from the start! The one question i have, is that there’s still some slight “drag” at idle. Not a ton, probably equivalent to an automatic transmission car. Where it takes minimal brake pressure to hold it, but when the brake is released it will creep in gear. I already turned my idle down, and i can visually see that the clutch isn’t engaging. So does someone sell a bushing similar in style to the tav2 that lets the belt “idle?” I should also mention, the belt isn’t too tight. (atleast i don’t think it is) At rest with the engine off, i can push down on the middle about 1 1/2” until it gets tight. Is this good? It’s also a far longer belt than a normal golf cart, it’s 56”. Thanks

[slonomo]

If it's a new belt it might take some time to wear in a bit so the belt wont grip at idle. Also, make sure you have slack in the belt to allow it to slip at idle, too tight and it will grip.

Do not modify that clutch. No bushing needed for idling.

[Backroadbomber]

Alright thanks. I’ll see if it wears in, it is brand new.

[slonomo]

When I converted my G1 to a 440, I remember having to use a long belt also. It was 56", was from a John Deere Gator. Wonder if it's the same belt lol. I also remember having to give it some slack to allow it to idle in gear. But realistically, a little bit of "creep" is tolerable, as long as you can get it in and out of gear without issues.