Anyone tried converting to 4wd?

[jacksdad3]

The Silver Wolf system looks a lot easier to install than the other one listed. With the other one, you are basically jacking up the frame and replacing everything below it.

That being said, from what I can descern, the Silver Wolf front end powers only in the forward direction, correct? I am concerned that in some conditions, I would need 4WD in reverse. Any suggestions or corrections?

[SilverWolf]

Originally Posted by jacksdad3

The Silver Wolf system looks a lot easier to install than the other one listed. With the other one, you are basically jacking up the frame and replacing everything below it.

That being said, from what I can descern, the Silver Wolf front end powers only in the forward direction, correct? I am concerned that in some conditions, I would need 4WD in reverse. Any suggestions or corrections?

The SilverWolf System bolts-on to your existing suspension and full installation should not take more than 2 hours.

The system provides torque in the forward direction and there are some conditions where that is inconvenient.

Cars with fully reversing systems are not only much more expensive but much heavier (approx. 700 lbs). The added weight gives them far less floatation and maneuverability. In our experience, they get stuck as often, or more often than cars with our light weight system.

A locking differential is an inexpensive option to increase traction if you need to drive backwards a lot.

Even with a "fully reversing system" not all of the wheels are necessarily turning backwards in reverse at the same time. It's not uncommon for dual transaxle systems to have open differentials.

[Mattm]

While we have someone on here answering questions on the silver wolf system. I want one for my gasser, do y'all have anything? Could your system be hooked up to a 12volt to 36volt power booster so I could run your system in a gasser?

[SilverWolf]

Originally Posted by Mattm

While we have someone on here answering questions on the silver wolf system. I want one for my gasser, do y'all have anything? Could your system be hooked up to a 12volt to 36volt power booster so I could run your system in a gasser?

To run our system on a gasser you would need to add at least 36 volts worth of batteries, preferably 48 volts. We would suggest 4 12 v 65 A-hr AGM's in the bag well. You also need to attach a throttle sensor such as a Club Car MCOR or a linear potentiometer (0-5 k) somewhere on the throttle linkage. Then you would need to add a limit switch to the forward reverse leaver mechanism so our system would know when the car is moving in the forward direction. The rest of the installation would be the same as on an electric vehicle. We expect that this would give you a range of 8-10 miles in all electric mode. It would also help your vehicle get through some very challenging terrain when you use both systems in parallel.

[Mattm]

Okay I think I see what your saying, wondering if I could use the power booster tho. It boosts from my existing 12volt to 36volt, so I wouldn't have to worry about range or batteries, as long as my generator is charging and my power booster is working then I should have all the range I need right?

[Mattm]

To dumb it down for me, I need linear potentiometer for throttle control. I need to add a switch to connect to my forward switch because the system only goes one way and power. Right? Then I could put a toggle switch to turn the power booster on when I wanted four wheel drive

[SilverWolf]

Originally Posted by Mattm

To dumb it down for me, I need linear potentiometer for throttle control. I need to add a switch to connect to my forward switch because the system only goes one way and power. Right? Then I could put a toggle switch to turn the power booster on when I wanted four wheel drive

The missing ingredient is how much power your booster can actually deliver. To achieve a reasonable motor torque the power booster would need to be able to deliver 60 - 80 amps for short periods of time and should be rated for 20 - 30 amps continuous. More is better and anything less you would find disappointing.

[cgtech]

So at a 12v conversion to 36v, we are talking 12v 90amp crusing, 240 amp full load. That sounds like a helluva alternator. A standard starter/generator as used on golf carts can produce 40 amps for short periods (based on my own testing). This sounds like the old adage of "there's no free lunch". I dont think this will work without some 36v battery pack to store some energy. It still would not work continuously, only for.short bursts. I already tried to build "perpetual energy devices" with no luck due to heat losses, it just doesnt work. I think this was covered in "someones" theory (maybe newtons? laws of energy conservation). Im sure i will be corrected on the name, and rightly so.

[Jerj7907]

Originally Posted by SilverWolf

The Beast 48 4x4 uses our system which does not negatively affect the range of the vehicle when compared with a 2WD drive version of the same vehicle riding on the same track. Whatever work our motors are doing at the front, does not need to be done by the OEM system in the back. The SilverWolf system uses rare earth permanent magnet AC motors that convert electrical energy to mechanical energy much more efficiently than the stock Sepex, Series, or AC induction motors commonly found on golf cars. In addition, our motors disconnect themselves and freewheel at user selectable speeds of approximately 5 or 12 mph. Our systems adds about 35 pounds to the weight of the vehicle.

Maybe I was shown a different cart but the Beast 48 4x4 I seen had a rear axle turned around and steering knuckles added to make it steer. Did not remotely resemble the SilverWolf system. I could even identify identical controllers and solenoids for both axles mounted side by side, beside the batteries.

[pmartin407]

I have a ezgo txt that someone added a BBB classic front axle with motor. Anyone have suggestions on how to wire up using a separate controller and a switch to power up only when needing 4 wheel drive.