HELP! Need advice with wiring a 36V Controller/HD Solenoid upgrade!!!!!!

[Xact1]

Originally Posted by scottyb

I was in the middle of posting a suggestion to try the old F&R cuz that looked wrong when My keyboard took a chit !!! I am so glad you got it figured out. I don't feel like such a dummy now

You are certainly not a dummy. Without gurus like you on this forum I wouldn't have attempted this conversion.

Now I have a real understanding of how this cart works!

[scottyb]

Originally Posted by Xact1

Now I have a real understanding of how this cart works!

I think that is the biggest benefit of DIY anything. Nice to know how stuff works so you are not clueless when it doesn't

[oxfordlawn]

Originally Posted by scottyb

I was in the middle of posting a suggestion to try the old F&R cuz that looked wrong when My keyboard took a chit !!! I am so glad you got it figured out. I don't feel like such a dummy now

Drop the brakekleen and step away from the keyboard

[oxfordlawn]

Why dont you post a diagram of the info you found out. Someone down the road will definately benefit from all this...including me

[scottyb]

Originally Posted by oxfordlawn

Drop the brakekleen and step away from the keyboard

Like I say ........ you learn something everyday

[Xact1]

Originally Posted by oxfordlawn

Why dont you post a diagram of the info you found out. Someone down the road will definately benefit from all this...including me

You're right, and I will post an electrical diagram and some pictures in a few days.

Thanks again for the help!

[Xact1]

Well, I had a chance to drive the cart around for a few days and shake things down. Everything seems OK, the cart has a little more top speed, but definitely has a LOT more torque. Throttle response is also much better, and, although this might not make sense, the batteries seem to charge quicker. Maybe that's because the new system doesn't draw as much current as the old V-glide and coiled resistor setup.

Here's a few pictures of the PB-6, Controller, F/R switch, and H/D Solenoid.

I used some ideas for the PB-6 that came from this forum, and modified the mounting bracket to suit my installation. I used a threaded rod with a hook on one end, and added a locking nut. It works great. Make sure to 'float' the mounting brackets and hardware prior to tightening, and make sure that your parking brake functions, and that you have a full range of GO pedal.

I used the original F/R switch, wired S2 and S1 on the rotating contacts. The bottom 2 lugs are connected to A2. The top right lug is M-.

I mounted the H/D Solenoid in the same location as the original for now. Future plans are to move it up next to the Controller where it will be easier to access. I'm going to wait and do this as a winter project along with a new paint job.

I also installed an extra bracket to keep the batteries away from the PB-6. The original threaded hold-down rods are gone, and I plan on installing ratcheting tie-downs to secure the batteries.

[GLEEMO]

Man this is just 2 clean , throw a little dirt in there !
No its a good Job !!
I did notice a extra washer or 2 in the F/R cables , my guess the
Cable ends were 2 big ?

[scottyb]

Nice job Xact1 And thank you for the follow up post and pics. This is Xactly why we ask for continuity in a thread ....... so somebody can research this in the archinves later on! Tanks again and enjoy!

[Xact1]

Originally Posted by gmorrison

Man this is just 2 clean , throw a little dirt in there !
No its a good Job !!
I did notice a extra washer or 2 in the F/R cables , my guess the
Cable ends were 2 big ?

Yes, the cable ends were too big. I can't find 4 guage lugs with small I.D. holes. I have to look in the hardware store and see if there is something else that I can come up with. If anybody has a better idea for mounting lugs for the F/R switch, post it!