RXV Danaher to Curtis Conversion Instructions

[broberson]

Well, I thought that was all, apparently not, Still no power to the wheels. I have 48 volts all the way to the junction box that ties the two harnesses in. run/tow switch working ok, but the head lights are not?

[bsikes09]

The headlights should not be affected. Did you follow the wire all the way to the motor brake for sure. I believe there is a portion of the headlight harness that runs down the side of the battery pack that includes something like a blue, white, and black wire. Maybe you crossed wires and thought that the wire you were cutting was the motor brake wire, and was actually the white headlight harness wire. I'll double check if thats the headlight harness on my lunch break at 11 EST.

[BobBoyce]

Originally Posted by broberson

Well, I thought that was all, apparently not, Still no power to the wheels. I have 48 volts all the way to the junction box that ties the two harnesses in. run/tow switch working ok, but the head lights are not?

I had mentioned this before, but I was not paid attention to, so I edited that post to say nevermind.

The difference between the Danaher and the Curtis controllers is in the Danaher, the motor speed encoder +5V (orange wire) and the +5V return (negative, switched by a FET in the controller) are paired with the +5V. And the returns of the motor speed encoder and motor temperature sensor are paured with the returns of the throttle and brake encoders. In the Curtis, the +5V of the motor encoder, and the paired returns of the motor encoder and the temperature sensor are routed to seperate pins on the controller instead of pairing to the throttle/brake encoder supply. If you connect these +5V and 5V returns to hot +12V or +48V circuits, you could fry the entire 5 volt bus in your new controller, or blow out the negative switching FET at the very least.

I posted a circuit diagram in another thread and gave the pin numbers and what circuits are used for what in that thread.

[bsikes09]

We understand what needs to be hooked up, He probably spliced the wrong white wire since the headlights are not working. But the long winded explanation doesn't really tell him what he did wrong or how to fix it. How the controller works is really irrelevant. And I believe in your previous post you told him to hook up the white wire coming out of the adapter harness pigtail to the other side of the motor encoder, which would be incorrect. The white wire goes to the motor brake.

[bsikes09]

Were you able to trace back were your white wire is coming from? when you turn the cart on in Run mode, does it perform any brake test (can you hear the brake click). are there any beeps or anything from the backup buzzer.

[BobBoyce]

Originally Posted by bsikes09

We understand what needs to be hooked up, He probably spliced the wrong white wire since the headlights are not working. But the long winded explanation doesn't really tell him what he did wrong or how to fix it. How the controller works is really irrelevant. And I believe in your previous post you told him to hook up the white wire coming out of the adapter harness pigtail to the other side of the motor encoder, which would be incorrect. The white wire goes to the motor brake.

If you say so. Go right ahead and keep helping him.

While I admit to having zero experience with the innards of Danaher controllers, I happen to know Curtis controllers quite well. I am a Factory level programmer for Curtis controllers. When he needs a new controller and harness, the harness he'll need to fully support a Curtis controller is E-Z-GO part# 618950 or newer. That is the first Curtis type RXV harness (no adapter or harness splicing required) that is plug and play.

Continue on, I'll not post in this thread again.

[mmech37]

Hello, I installed this same controller and it didn't work. All that happens when you first turn the key on into reverse is the wheels kinda "kick" slightly then nothing else happens. Turn the switch on over to forward and it does nothing. The orange wire your talking goes to the motor right? I cut it and spliced the controller orange wire to the orange wire going to the 4 pin plug going to the motor. That is the right one isn't it? It acts like the brake is releasing so I think the white/gray wire is right. What is the extra gray wire from the stock plug go to on the new controller?

Noticed a previous comment that the orange wire runs in front of the battery pack. The wire I spliced into runs between the batteries and the controller. Is that the same orange wire?

[BobBoyce]

Originally Posted by mmech37

Hello, I installed this same controller and it didn't work. All that happens when you first turn the key on into reverse is the wheels kinda "kick" slightly then nothing else happens. Turn the switch on over to forward and it does nothing. The orange wire your talking goes to the motor right? I cut it and spliced the controller orange wire to the orange wire going to the 4 pin plug going to the motor. That is the right one isn't it? It acts like the brake is releasing so I think the white/gray wire is right. What is the extra gray wire from the stock plug go to on the new controller?

Noticed a previous comment that the orange wire runs in front of the battery pack. The wire I spliced into runs between the batteries and the controller. Is that the same orange wire?

The reason you cart is not working is that little kick of the rear tires. It should not move at all, as the brake should be solidly locked on when that motor twist test is performed by the controller. Fix that first before going any further.

Check the motor brake to be sure that it is locking the motor from turning when the motor brake is unpowered. Test it and if it is bad, replace it with a new one.

Bob

[cjcolbyjack]

I know this has been up a long time. But I recently purchased this controller and I was going to attempt to cut the existing harness like you did. I’ve decided that’s a little over my head. Do you know where I can buy the harness already made for this controller? Any help is truly appreciated.

[bsikes09]

I'm not 100% sure, but I doubt you can buy a "factory" type harness for this since it's an upgrade and you are going from one controller manufacturer to another.

Also, it has been a while since I did this conversion, but as I recall, there were literally only one or two cut/splices that had to be done. Everything else was pretty much plug and play. I did it in my shop, at 12AM, with a few beers in me, and about five of my friends behind me doing what they do best DISTRACTING!
Another reason I would imagine they don't have a harness for the conversion, there isn't really enough modification required to justify it.

It really isn't that bad, just take your time. If you get in a pinch, or to a point of uncertainty, just STOP hop on here and ask someone for help.