36v series cart unsure of the year..solenoid click but no go

[cvingr]

Originally Posted by cvingr

I`m not sure, I will check and let you know.

It is a 5 Pin.

[twilliams81]

Originally Posted by cvingr

It is a 5 Pin.

Yeah if you want to shoot me a pm and let me know what you’d take for it that’d be great


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[Cavediver86]

I had this problem and ended up having to replace my forward and reverse switch. One of the copper contacts was actually burnt and wasn't touching or making contact. That Forward and reverse switch wasn't even 2 months old.

The next time I had this issue was this last past week and was actually just corroded terminals. Once I poured baking soda on all the terminals and then took them apart scrub them and clean them the car ran great.

[twilliams81]

Originally Posted by Cavediver86

I had this problem and ended up having to replace my forward and reverse switch. One of the copper contacts was actually burnt and wasn't touching or making contact. That Forward and reverse switch wasn't even 2 months old.

The next time I had this issue was this last past week and was actually just corroded terminals. Once I poured baking soda on all the terminals and then took them apart scrub them and clean them the car ran great.

Again I thought the same thing and replaced it and ended up with the same results. Only things that haven’t been changed are the motor and controller.


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[JohnnieB]

Check the ITS voltages at the controller and at the ITS sensor.

The is a 4-pin in-line connector between the gray cable coming out of pedal box and the cart's wiring harness that causes all sorts of problem. Replace it with individual butt splices or solder joints and cover with shrink tubing.

[twilliams81]

Originally Posted by JohnnieB

Check the ITS voltages at the controller and at the ITS sensor.

The is a 4-pin in-line connector between the gray cable coming out of pedal box and the cart's wiring harness that causes all sorts of problem. Replace it with individual butt splices or solder joints and cover with shrink tubing.

Thanks Johnnie I’ll double check in the AM and report back


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[twilliams81]

Originally Posted by JohnnieB

Check the ITS voltages at the controller and at the ITS sensor.

The is a 4-pin in-line connector between the gray cable coming out of pedal box and the cart's wiring harness that causes all sorts of problem. Replace it with individual butt splices or solder joints and cover with shrink tubing.

Ok johnnie I did what you suggested in butt connecting the four pin connector wires. Here’s where I am so far:

- I got a hold of another controller that IS good ( took it straight off another running cart). With the connector now Butt spliced I’m now getting the correct readings on CONTROLLER b- and m- that I was not getting before; however I’m still in the same boat as far as a solenoid click but no go

- The three flow chart test you suggested all passed except #23..for that test I’m getting 14.8V.

So just to review this cart has: a known working controller; new F&R switch; new solenoid; new ITS; new batteries, the motor passed the continuity test.

I’m starting to pull hairs on this one so any other suggestions would be a great help! Thanks


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[twilliams81]

Ok an update..

I took a newly rebuilt plum quick motor and put it on and wahh lahh it went to working!! The old motor passed the continuity test but apparently there’s something else going on that I was unable to detect through bench testing. This has been a pain the you know what to say the least!


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[twilliams81]

So I went back and re-installed the original controller, F&R switch and left the newly rebuilt plum quick motor on and wouldn't you know it..it's a NO GO again!! Just so we're clear on this:

* With newly built plum quick motor, New F&R switch, used but known working controller, new solenoid, new ITS... the cart ran

* With original motor, New F&R switch, used but but working controller, new solenoid, new ITS, the cart got a solenoid click but no go

* With Newly rebuilt plum quick motor, original controller, new F&R switch, new solenoid, new ITS, the cart got a solenoid click but no go

* With Newly rebuilt plum quick motor, original controller, Original F&R switch, new solenoid, new ITS, the cart got a solenoid click but no go

Is it possible that the motor and controller both went out at the same time?? This has been exhausting and all possible test have led me in circles up to this point.

[Mooncarter]

Test the old motor while you have it out.