2001 Ezgo txt shuttle 2+2 changing to 48v question

[kernal]

I have the 2000 version of that cart. Likely identical. That looks to be the 400amp controller. Unfortunately the label is on the bottom so you have to pull it out to see it. It is possible it could be 48v capable but not likely. The label will probably say "400amp, 24-36v". Thats what mine said. It will probably run on 48v, the question is for how long. Keep in mind the charger will take a 48v pack to the 60v range when charging.
I chose not to take a chance and put in a Alltrax.
If you want to do this right and have a reliable cart, suggest you do what yurtle posted.

Regarding the F/R switch, I just changed to a "heavy duty" cam. Essentially a standard cam with thicker bus bars and the cart has been fine for many years now but I'm on standard height tires and only run on pavement. If I were to do this again I would eliminate the F/R switch and use reversing contactors.

[kgsc]

What if you changed the activation circuit to use just 36? Or does the controller use the b+ input for board power.

[georgia088]

Actually what brought all this about was one I ordered batteries for the cart, the battery shop ordered 6 8v batteries. I didn’t even realize it and have ran the cart for a few days. (I know it will work). So, I don’t know how I could drop to 36v but could possibly drop to 40v if this would help? I’m not sure exactly how I could do it? Can anyone explain what it would take to do this? I’m interested. I love the performance I’m getting with 48v, but don’t really wanna burn up the controller. I don’t mind getting the Hd solenoid. But not wanting to buy a controller.

Thanks again!

[yurtle]

OK, much more info. BUY A CHARGER. DO NOT DRIVE any more, until you fully charge your batteries. Depending on how much you drove, your batteries could be in a partially discharged state, which is not good.

The solenoid coil needs to be 48 volts. It may survive, or may not, like the controller.

You have a decision. Since the shop sold you the wrong batteries, they should swap them for 6 volts. However, you've now tasted 48 volts. You could drive until controller and/or solenoid blow. They might survive.

[georgia088]

Ok. One more bit of info. I do have a48v charger. I have another golf cart. It’s a DPI Accusense. So, charging it isn’t an issue. My only real concern is the controller. I’m a gambler. I think I’m going to take a chance. The guy I got the cart from told me the controller was bad when I got it. It wasn’t. I bought it planning on putting a controller in anyway. I’d like to know if it was going to blow it for sure, and I would drop back to 36v. So please tell me if you do. However, I think the concensus is it will work for some period of time. I’m going to test it out I guess. My luck, I’ll be looking for a controller within the week. Lol

I do really appreciate all of the info!

[yurtle]

Great new info.

Were it mine, I'd assume $50 controller resell, solenoid maybe $25, so for me, that's not worth the possible savings if one or more could actually last. You have to weigh that against reliability. Knowing you'd have to tow it if it dies, is it generally traveling places your other buggy could rescue it?

I'd do it. You can wire your solenoid to only see 40 volts, as mentioned before. You could also limit the controller to 40 volts on the control side, assuming it's similar to TXT controllers.

If you can read a wiring diagram, and wire the control wires to be only 40 volts, that's what I would do.

I'd have to look at it closer, but I'm almost positive you could move the pack positive - labeled Ignition Interlock - from the positive to the negative of the same battery. In other words, pack positive minus one battery. Should address controller's low power voltage, backup beeper, and solenoid coil.

[georgia088]

So, would I be running on 40v but charging all 6 batteries each time it was charged? Would this not damage the battery bank? Or, Make one battery completely useless?

OR, (and I think this is what you are saying) You are sending 40v to the input/activation side of the solenoid/controller, but it would be sending 48v on the output side? This would be nice to do, but I am not sure that I understand how to do it. I am looking at it now.

Thanks!

[georgia088]

Is this what you are saying?

[yurtle]

Originally Posted by georgia088

So, would I be running on 40v but charging all 6 batteries each time it was charged? Would this not damage the battery bank? Or, Make one battery completely useless?

OR, (and I think this is what you are saying) You are sending 40v to the input/activation side of the solenoid/controller, but it would be sending 48v on the output side? This would be nice to do, but I am not sure that I understand how to do it. I am looking at it now.

Thanks!

No. You would run on 48 volts, but power the smart part of the controller and solenoid, beeper with 40 volts. 32 is also an option, as long as the solenoid can hold one that.

[georgia088]

Did you check out the wiring diagram? Would that work?

Thanks!