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Electric EZGO Electric EZ GO Marathon, Medalist, TXT and RXV. |
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01-26-2020, 01:33 PM | #1 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Aug 2018
Location: Summerville, SC
Posts: 67
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Slightly burned solenoid
Background-2006 ezgo txt PDS,6” lift, 23”tires, 400 amp altrax controller, upgraded solenoid. Took a look at the solenoid before charging and noticed the post and connections tying to the positive cable looks slightly burnt. See pics. 16DB88F3-3205-41D6-9E51-123ACC987F55.jpg
FA74E980-84B8-4197-91CA-08C2868F6233.jpg 2FE5C674-7C6D-4943-96F9-442F30928F49.jpg 3976C65B-6AFC-479C-B83C-49D3ECE62CFD.jpg I have the original motor in my cart. Would the older motor be causing the problem? Do the connections look right? I’m not seeing any”burn” on the battery post or any connections there , just the solenoid. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. |
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01-26-2020, 01:58 PM | #2 |
Gone Wild
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Aiken, SC
Posts: 13,005
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Re: Slightly burned solenoid
Not sure what solenoid that is but might be getting warm due to burnt contacts. What rating is it? Also, you have your fuse connected incorrectly. Your heavy blue wire needs to be connected where the white wire is.
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01-26-2020, 02:44 PM | #3 |
Techno-Nerd
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: West Virginia
Posts: 19,654
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Re: Slightly burned solenoid
In picture-1, I cannot tell if the top of the solenoid has heat damage, or if the distorted area is goop that has leaked out of the blue cable. If it is leaked goop, the heat damage appears to be limited to the solenoid's battery side large terminal and connections, mostly the two smaller ring terminals.
I'd replace both of the smaller ring terminals along with the discolored nut and washers, and thoroughly clean the cable lug and the large terminal's contact area. Then use some conductive grease like NO-OX-ID when reassembling the connections. Looks like the root cause might have been a poor connection between the ring terminal on the red wire that feed J1 Pin-5 and the beeper. There are a few milliamps of current flow through that wire whenever the Run/Tow switch is in the Run position, but that shouldn't overheat it unless the connection was very poor, or there was something drawing more than the normal amperage. (If the beeper is disconnected, make sure the loose wire isn't touching anything...) Also, if you are turning 23" tall tires from a 36V battery pack, you're doing a double whammy on the motor's amp draw. 1. The slower the motor spins, the more amps it can draw and the taller the tires, the slower the motor spins for any given speed. 2. It takes the same amount of Watts to move the cart regardless of what the battery pack voltage is. Watts = Volts X Amps, so it takes 28A from a 36V battery pack to produce 1kW while it takes 24A from a 42V pack and 21A form a 48V pack. Making matters worse, the amount of heat generated by amps flowing through resistance increases exponentially (W = I² X R) to the increase in amps. That means that a 7A increase through 1Ω increases the heat generated by 49W. ---------- Also noticed that only the charger is connected to the 250A fuse. Typically, the B+ cable to the solenoid is connected to it and the charger is connected via a 50A or 60A fuse. |
01-26-2020, 04:12 PM | #4 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Aug 2018
Location: Summerville, SC
Posts: 67
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Re: Slightly burned solenoid
Thanks guys. I just replaced both ring connectors and washers and nut. I also moved the large cable to the end of the 250 fuse from the + battery post.
Johnnie, I kind of understand your amp draw explanation. Would a larger motor help? |
01-26-2020, 05:16 PM | #5 | |
Techno-Nerd
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: West Virginia
Posts: 19,654
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Re: Slightly burned solenoid
Quote:
2. If you kind of understand it, you are doing better than most cart owners. Give it some time, it'll soak in and you'll say, "How could something so simple have seemed so complex.". 3. Probably not, might make things worse. In general terms a larger motor (one with more low end torque) will draw more amps than the stock PDS motor, but I don't believe the amp draw of the motor was the cause of the burnt terminal. (I suspect it was poor contact) The 23" tires causes the motor to draw more amps and if they are the low pressure type (<10PSI max inflation pressure) additional amps are being drawn. In a nutshell, the tall tires are going to eventually going to cause the stock PDS motor to fail, so a larger motor is something to plan for. There are two ways of lowering the amps flowing through the cables, connection, contacts, controller and motor. 1. Replace the 23" tires with shorter ones. 2. Up the battery pack voltage to 42V or 48V. The sweet spot for a stock PDS motor is 42V, but a larger motor may very likely like 48V battery. What voltage to go to depends on what cart is used for and how it is used. |
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04-11-2020, 12:46 PM | #6 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Aug 2018
Location: Summerville, SC
Posts: 67
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Re: Slightly burned solenoid
Following up. Ive replaced the burnt terminals and ring connectors three times now. Still getting hot on the controller side of solenoid. It’s not hot during charging. It only gets hot if I run it for a while. I’m not an electrician by any means so I’m totally lost now on what to do next. How would making it a 42 volt system prevent the melting of connections? Any advice would be very welcomed. Thanks guys and Happy Easter.
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04-11-2020, 02:13 PM | #7 |
Over This Interview Is...
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: AZ
Posts: 17,449
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Re: Slightly burned solenoid
If you have taken the lid off the solenoid & cleaned/replaced the contacts, but problem returns, the issue is the lid is distorted, or one of your wires still has poor connection.
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04-12-2020, 10:14 AM | #8 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Aug 2018
Location: Summerville, SC
Posts: 67
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Re: Slightly burned solenoid
i may be way in over my head here now...distorted solenoid? I'm going to check one other connection and see it that helps. Also going to replace the connections one more time (running out of wire to splice). If it still gets hot I may get a new/beefier solenoid. Would that help?
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