Ezgo TXT Alltrax Controller Not Turning On

[Viperguy]

I’ve got an 07 Ezgo TXT series cart that I recently converted to 48v. I installed an Alltrax SR48500 controller, 400amp solenoid and SW202 reversing contacter. I’m having an issue with the controller not powering on when the key switch is turned on. I’ve gone through the wiring according to Scotties diagram and everything looks good. Going through checking voltages, there’s power through the key switch and the green wire into the pedal micro switch. However, there’s nothing in the red wire coming out of the micro switch and into the solenoid and KSI input on the controller. When the pedal is at rest, it reads 0V but with the pedal fully depressed, it’s 14V. I replaced the pedal micro switch but still have the same issue. There’s power on both the B+ and B- of the controller as well. Any help is greatly appreciated, thanks!

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by Viperguy

I’ve got an 07 Ezgo TXT series cart that I recently converted to 48v. I installed an Alltrax SR48500 controller, 400amp solenoid and SW202 reversing contacter. I’m having an issue with the controller not powering on when the key switch is turned on. I’ve gone through the wiring according to Scotties diagram and everything looks good. Going through checking voltages, there’s power through the key switch and the green wire into the pedal micro switch. However, there’s nothing in the red wire coming out of the micro switch and into the solenoid and KSI input on the controller. When the pedal is at rest, it reads 0V but with the pedal fully depressed, it’s 14V. I replaced the pedal micro switch but still have the same issue. There’s power on both the B+ and B- of the controller as well. Any help is greatly appreciated, thanks!

The controller in a series drive EZGO cart does not power up until the pedal is pressed.

There has to be battery pack voltage on The RED push-on jack (KSI) to power up the controller and the red wire to it is in parallel with the solenoid coil.

Also, 14V on the KSI wire is very low. Should be battery pack voltage, 50.9V when charged.

[scottyb]

Line 1 of this instructions says to remove the red and blue wire from the old F&R forward micro switch ( driver's side) and splice them together. This splices routes battery pack power to the keyswitch. As JB says, the pedal must be depressed before the controller comes on

[Viperguy]

Ok, thanks for the replies. I didn’t realize it was supposed to stay off until the pedal is depressed. I do have the blue and red wires spliced together and am getting full pack voltage on the green wire into the pedal micro switch. Not sure why it’s only 14v coming out of it on the red wire though.

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by Viperguy

Ok, thanks for the replies. I didn’t realize it was supposed to stay off until the pedal is depressed. I do have the blue and red wires spliced together and am getting full pack voltage on the green wire into the pedal micro switch. Not sure why it’s only 14v coming out of it on the red wire though.

Bad pedal switch contacts or bad in-line connector on the end of the gray cable coming out of the pedal box.

That connector causes all sorts of trouble, so many people replace it with individual butt-splices or solder joints. Use marine grade (adhesive filled) shrink tubing to waterproof the connections.

[Viperguy]

I do still have that connector in the circuit. I’ll go ahead and replace it with separate connections and see if that solves it. Thanks for the help!

[Viperguy]

So after getting rid of the single connector and replacing with individual connections for the pedal wires, I’m still having the same issues. More specifically with the pedal at rest and the FR rocker in either neutral or forward/reverse, I get 52.1V on the green wire and 0V on the red. With the pedal fully pressed and the rocker in neutral, there’s 14V on the green and 14V on the red. However, with the rocker in either forward or reverse and the pedal pressed, there’s only .2V on both the green and red wire. Any ideas what could be causing this? Thanks!

[JohnnieB]

The cause is most likely excessive resistance in the KSI wiring.

Check the voltage on the small wire coming out of the charge receptacle.

If your cart still has a reed switch, bypass it.

[Viperguy]

I actually have the 3 prong 48V receptacle with small blue wire coming out connected to the blue key wire. I’m getting the same voltage reading on the blue wire at the receptacle as the green wire at the pedal micro switch in every scenario mentioned above. Is there something else that might be causing the resistance?

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by Viperguy

I actually have the 3 prong 48V receptacle with small blue wire coming out connected to the blue key wire. I’m getting the same voltage reading on the blue wire at the receptacle as the green wire at the pedal micro switch in every scenario mentioned above. Is there something else that might be causing the resistance?

The blue wire is the voltage source for the solenoid activation circuit. It connects to the electronic equivalent of the reed switch and if the voltage on the blue wire is 14V in N and drops down to 0.2V when in F or R, you've got two repair choices.
1. Replace the triangular charge port. (It is filled with potting compound and not repairable)
2. Connect the blue wire to B+.