2000 EZGO TXT Series - Upgrades for speed

[jmatlock88]

If I am replacing the motor and controller, am I better off converting this cart from a Series configuration over to AC or PDS?

[jmatlock88]

Originally Posted by kernal

The Alltrax SPM controller was what was available when Nuke built his cart. It is an old model now and the current version is called the SR. More performance, better packaging (smaller that the SPM) etc. There are some package deals here: https://www.cartsunlimited.net/alltrax-sr-series--.html

Thanks, Kernal. What I am seeing is the SR48600 and a 400 solenoid for $669. I would then buy the SW202 separately since I already have the 2ga cables on order.

[jmatlock88]

Spline count for the motor?

[kernal]

Originally Posted by jmatlock88

Spline count for the motor?

19 as I recall

[kernal]

Originally Posted by jmatlock88

If I am replacing the motor and controller, am I better off converting this cart from a Series configuration over to AC or PDS?

I would seriously consider converting to sepex in this situation. You would need the wiring harness (control wires, the little ones). The mechanical F/R switch is eliminated. Less cables altogether (the big ones), XCT line of Alltrax with much more customization including different settings for youthful or other common sense challenged operators, Equivalent motors (price) produce more speed etc.
Note: Nobody has produced and sold "series" carts since about 2008. AC is significantly better but $$$ for conversion.
(PDS precision drive system is EZGO speak for sepex carts. In Club Car speak its IQ or Excel. I forget what Yammies call it.

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by kernal

I would seriously consider converting to sepex in this situation. You would need the wiring harness (control wires, the little ones). The mechanical F/R switch is eliminated. Less cables altogether (the big ones), XCT line of Alltrax with much more customization including different settings for youthful or other common sense challenged operators, Equivalent motors (price) produce more speed etc.
Note: Nobody has produced and sold "series" carts since about 2008. AC is significantly better but $$$ for conversion.
(PDS precision drive system is EZGO speak for sepex carts. In Club Car speak its IQ or Excel. I forget what Yammies call it.

With the PDS version of the XCT controllers, you can RPM limit the motor to a safe level.

Believe me, it isn't fun to slid to a stop from 33+ MPH after the motor explodes.

[jmatlock88]

Thanks for the feedback again.

I am leaning toward Option 3: Upgrade to a Plumquick 36V Sorcerer motor and keeping my 36 volt pack and stock controller. I think 20-22mph and
30% more torque is going to be adequate and cost effective. When we start getting to the $2000 mark, it seems to me like it would make sense to just purchase a PDS cart and upgrade that.

For future proofing, when I replace the battery pack in 2024, I can upgrade to 48V and then find a used stock 48V controller and charger. <-I need to make sure the Sorcerer motor can work with 48V.

To give you guys a chance to talk me out of this approach, I wanted to give some more details of my use case.

• 80% of the time is neighborhood streets, level terrain.
• I have back seat kit, so there will be 4 passengers regularly.
• Occasionally I might pull 4 kids around the neighborhood in a small trailer "hay ride" style.
• I might load some tools, bags of soil or mulch in a trailer or on the bed and pull that around the yard.
• I occasionally drive in 6" to 1' tall grass but on level terrain.
• Average length of a trip is 2 miles.

[kernal]

Originally Posted by jmatlock88

Thanks for the feedback again.

I am leaning toward Option 3: Upgrade to a Plumquick 36V Sorcerer motor and keeping my 36 volt pack and stock controller. I think 20-22mph and
30% more torque is going to be adequate and cost effective. When we start getting to the $2000 mark, it seems to me like it would make sense to just purchase a PDS cart and upgrade that.

For future proofing, when I replace the battery pack in 2024, I can upgrade to 48V and then find a used stock 48V controller and charger. <-I need to make sure the Sorcerer motor can work with 48V.

To give you guys a chance to talk me out of this approach, I wanted to give some more details of my use case.

• 80% of the time is neighborhood streets, level terrain.
• I have back seat kit, so there will be 4 passengers regularly.
• Occasionally I might pull 4 kids around the neighborhood in a small trailer "hay ride" style.
• I might load some tools, bags of soil or mulch in a trailer or on the bed and pull that around the yard.
• I occasionally drive in 6" to 1' tall grass but on level terrain.
• Average length of a trip is 2 miles.

Well, this changes everything for me. The cart pictured is a 2000 model with series drive. (Mechanical F/R switch). It has the same size tires as on yours. We operated this cart for years with out issue in an area with hills and frequently hauling 3-4 adults for ~ 6-800 lbs of weight. Also, this is a factory built 4 pax cart so it's heavy before adding people and it still had the factory 6 ga cables. It would make 17mph with driver and it slowed on hills, of course, but would still hold 10-12 mph even when loaded. Optimum conditions, mind you, and performance would suffer slightly with aging batteries. I have no doubt this cart would do everything you described except for the top speed.
So, lets compare this cart with yours as there are some differences probably. Being a factory built 4 pax cart, it came with a 400amp Curtis controller, a heftier solenoid and a 1.87KW motor. Your cart probably has a 250amp plus or minus Curtis controller, a barely adequate solenoid and a 1.49KW motor. The difference in motors is approx 1000 rpm and 1/2 horse power. When operating correctly your cart should make 12-14 mph easily. The difference in speed between yours and mine is the MOTOR. The 400amp controller in my cart is there to support the motor. The ampacity of the controller in a "series" cart does not affect speed accept to support things that due add speed like motors, final drive ratio, more volts etc.
Anticipation a change to 48v, I changed the controller to a 400amp Alltrax purely for the 48v capability and swapped the solenoid for one capable of 36 and 48v. As expected, no change in performance yet. That was years ago and these are still in place today-- reliable. Changed to 48v eventually and all that was needed was the batteries, charger and resister on the solenoid.
Now to your situation I offer this opinion based on experience: The first thing to do is determine the health of your battery pack. We would like to know the brand, model,rated capacity and anything you know or don't know about them.You will need a digital multimeter (volt meter). Charge the batteries. Let the charger reach automatic cut off. Wait about 12 hours and take the pack voltage with the meter. Should be 38.2v. Next hook the meter to the pack main + and - and drive the cart observing what the voltage sags to under hard acceleration or going up a hill if you have one. Report the finding here. Physical age of the batteries can be misleading as new batteries can be ruined in months. Goal= Determine the health of your cart before releasing cash to modify it. Then determine what you really need to get to your goal. For example a 600amp controller is WAY overkill for you intended use.

One last thing. The F/R switch. The one in my cart is original except it has heavy duty buss bars (about $14)in it. Something I can't prove I really needed. Yes the mechanical switch can be a weak point and problematic but lets prove that it is an issue for you first. Keep in mind that when going to 48v there is actually less stress on the switch that at 36v. 48v requires less amps to do the same work.

[jmatlock88]

My first post described the use case as a "neighborhood cart". Maybe that was not descriptive enough and the expanded description helped.

My first post also has the Batteries brand and model and age:
36V T-105 Trojan 05-12-2018
I will perform the battery health checks and report back to you.
From talking with the previous owner, the cart ran slow when he bought it and also after he had the batteries professionally replaced in May 2018. The cart was also garage kept. Visually the batteries are clean, zero corrosion, terminals and cables in good condition.

Plumquick called me back this morning to consult, and I did place the order with them. He confirmed that the motor would work great with 48V pack and a stock 48V controller or an aftermarket controller.

The final configuration is now on order and will be as follows:

• $655 New Plumquick 36V PQ36-422 motor
• $180 36/48 Heavy Duty Solenoid from Plumquick
• $152.47 Upgrade 2ga 13pc wire set
• $159.99 36/48 Curtis/Albright 400 Amp Reversing Contactor
• $30.99 F&R dash switch
• $0 Keep the existing 36V Trojan T-105 pack
• $0 Keep the stock 36V controller
• TOTAL $1178.45

Future: Upgrade to 48V system when batteries need replaced.

[cgtech]

When you do the swap to 48v, dont waste time, money & effort on a "stock 48v controller", step up to an alltrax. The stock controller is pretty weak, especially with a upgraded motor.