What did I kill?

[klubber]

Originally Posted by Jack Daniels

My charger connects directly to the battery. It’s the extreme team set up.

OBC still needs to be bypassed. Talk to Blake at Extreme

[Jack Daniels]

Originally Posted by Mooncarter

Did you test the cart with the new batteries before you installed the charger?

Yes, everything has been working perfectly for a couple of months prior to this. I had been using the non sealed charger off board, swapped for the sealed charger on board. Had been good for a few days, but then I was getting the charger mounted and tidying up the wiring because I thought I was done. Flipped that switch to run as I thought I was complete, putting the seat back on, etc and heard the pop.

[movin-on]

Time to test controller inputs...
With the black lead of your meter on pack negative..

Pin #6 - Green Wire +48v once you press the go pedal. Mcor micro switch

pin #5 - Light Blue wire +48v... OBC lockout

Pin #10 - Tan Wire +48v with Key switch on

Pin #9 - Gray wire +48v with tow/run switch in run

Pin #16 - Blue +48v when F/R in forward

Pin #8 - Brown +48v when F/R switch in reverse

If you are getting + 48v at all of those pins the controller is bad

[Jack Daniels]

Originally Posted by movin-on

Time to test controller inputs...
With the black lead of your meter on pack negative..

Pin #6 - Green Wire +48v once you press the go pedal. Mcor micro switch

pin #5 - Light Blue wire +48v... OBC lockout

Pin #10 - Tan Wire +48v with Key switch on

Pin #9 - Gray wire +48v with tow/run switch in run

Pin #16 - Blue +48v when F/R in forward

Pin #8 - Brown +48v when F/R switch in reverse

If you are getting + 48v at all of those pins the controller is bad

Ok I was finally able to test all of these pins. I turned the key switch on and had the cart in run for all tests. I was getting at least +48v on all. I do believe the last two, blue and brown, were opposite. I got voltage on the blue when in reverse and on the brown when forward.

[Tom47]

Is it possible that the new charger is hooked up incorrectly, for example negative to positive, and positive to negative?

If so, you would still see the 48 volts as described above but may have shorted the solenoid coil (not sure if it would) or the controller (which is more likely).

Check to confirm the hookup is correct before checking the components.

[Jack Daniels]

Originally Posted by Tom47

Is it possible that the new charger is hooked up incorrectly, for example negative to positive, and positive to negative?

If so, you would still see the 48 volts as described above but may have shorted the solenoid coil (not sure if it would) or the controller (which is more likely).

Check to confirm the hookup is correct before checking the components.

Yes charger is correct. When it happened I had already run a few cycles just fine. I was tidying up all the wiring and flipped the run/tow switch while the charger was running when whatever got killed was killed.

[Tom47]

Originally Posted by Jack Daniels

Yes charger is correct. When it happened I had already run a few cycles just fine. I was tidying up all the wiring and flipped the run/tow switch while the charger was running when whatever got killed was killed.

That explains a lot. The problem has to be in the tidying up of the wiring. I would back everything up to see where something may have pulled loose. Hopefully you will find something in the wiring circuits that didn't directly affect and major (expensive) components.

Good luck with this one.....

[movin-on]

Put your meter on the two small terminals of the solenoid...Key on in forward and press the go pedal....You should have pack voltage at the terminals...If you do the solenoid is probably bad..

[Jack Daniels]

Originally Posted by Tom47

That explains a lot. The problem has to be in the tidying up of the wiring. I would back everything up to see where something may have pulled loose. Hopefully you will find something in the wiring circuits that didn't directly affect and major (expensive) components.

Good luck with this one.....

Wiring seems to be fine. The cart was moving not long before I plugged it in and was properly charging when I flipped the switch. I guess I know now now to mess with the run/tow switch during a charge, but I would hate for this to happen again once components are replaced. Blake at Extreme Team didn't seem concerned about whether the OBC was bypassed or not.

I will check the solenoid this evening.

[Tom47]

Originally Posted by Jack Daniels

Wiring seems to be fine. The cart was moving not long before I plugged it in and was properly charging when I flipped the switch. I guess I know now now to mess with the run/tow switch during a charge, but I would hate for this to happen again once components are replaced. Blake at Extreme Team didn't seem concerned about whether the OBC was bypassed or not.

I will check the solenoid this evening.

I'm not aware of a problem switching the run/tow switch during charging although I have never done that. Mine is always in run and I only switch to tow if I am working on it. Maybe switching during charge is something to be careful about.

Does anyone else here have more information about this being a problem?