Secondary sheave

[makobuggie]

I tried to take my sec sheave off and it wont move, i noticed you have to hook up a pully to it, the problem is the center pully bolt is to long to get in there, im thinking a shorter bolt? Should it work? I thought it would slide off, thanks.

[sho305]

No its on a taper, it is smaller than the primary and has a little half moon key in it. If its been on there a long time they pop off harder. Use a puller on the bolts. If you really have to you can put the nut on tight and back off a turn, then get about a 3/4 rod and a 3lb and hit the inside sheave between the ramps in the meaty part. Be careful and rotate it, hit it hard lol. When it comes off however you do it, it will fly off and the spring go flying if it can. A stock spring is not that much pressure, aftermarket spring is much more pressure. Don't use the sheaves whatever you do, they are weak and can only be handled by hand or very carefully.

[slonomo]

I actually cracked the inner sheave hitting it with a soft faced hammer. Don't recommend that, although I know it has worked for you Sho. I actually had to weld two bolts together to get the 6mm bolts to be long enough. Once I did that and tightened the puller down it popped right off. Yeah leave that center nut on but loose, that will prevent that spring from making the outer sheave fly off.

[spriddle]

Best way I've found to get these off is to soak the shaft area with a penetrating oil, put some pressure on the sheave wether it be with a puller like a steering wheel puller or tie straps and then smack it with a rubber mallet.

[sho305]

Originally Posted by slonomo

I actually cracked the inner sheave hitting it with a soft faced hammer. Don't recommend that, although I know it has worked for you Sho. I actually had to weld two bolts together to get the 6mm bolts to be long enough. Once I did that and tightened the puller down it popped right off. Yeah leave that center nut on but loose, that will prevent that spring from making the outer sheave fly off.

No no, I said never use the sheave to get it off they break very easily. I would never hit one with a pencil even. I used a rod on the back side on the hub below where the belt runs, they are thick where the ramps are and do not seem to break there, plus it is against the outer sheave there. I hit right at the bottom of the ramps and no other place, iirc between the ramps is the only part of the 'hub' of it you can get on to. Much better to use a puller but I had to get one off my cart and didn't have a puller available. I had to lay under the rear bumper and rod against the trans just to get in there, it was a pain. Since I did it I'm just saying it is possible but not recommending it.

I'm sorry if I was not clear on not using any force on the sheaves (thinner part the belt runs on). Maybe I should just stop posting that procedure.

However if the sheave was worn bad they don't shift well anyway, and it is a great excuse to buy a cut sheave they work great will be getting one for mine. The sheaves get thinner as they wear and eventually get holes in them and one I did the whole outside of the sheave broke off while he was driving it. It ran really bad at that point he was just going next door, it would not go over 15mph or so either, was chewing up the belt too. it also had holes in the clutch through to the weight area. Parts were on order so he didn't care lol.

A taper needs to come apart with a puller, or a sharp blow can pop them off.

[spriddle]

Dang Sho, just what kind of info you giving here...

Everyone please be careful in your reading so you completely understand what these guys are saying. Don't half read it, read it at least twice! Most of these guys have done this numerous times and no way anyone here wants anyone damaging their cart or especially getting hurt. Safety first and foremost!

[spriddle]

And, let me add, thank you Sho for all the time and knowledge you put in to helping the members here. It is deeply appreciated buddy.

[sho305]

Good people like carts right, lol, so of course I would help them out on here. I have a photo I think, let me look around when I get a minute. Yeah sometimes hard to explain in words and sometimes I have to type fast and run. I'm sure you can use a mallet on them if you are careful but what is the definition of careful with different people. Its weak cast aluminum I've worked with it a lot but many have not.

Ideally you would hit the center puller bolt after it was tight except there is not much room in there, and you would hit it with a metal hammer the shock wave would go right into the taper.

I do know there are a lot of sheaves out there worn that should be replaced. When I rebuilt that G9 that broke the sheave it had not shifted right for some time. I put both alum sheaves on it the other side were steel and not worn. You would not believe how nice and smooth it shifted with all the new stuff on it working properly, and how it would hit the right rpm like it is supposed to. A new cart lifted may not be perfect for offroad, but they run pretty good and utilize what power they have fairly well. Many old carts run poorly because the CVT is worn/dirty/etc. But you work with the budget you have.

[98kicker]

BE CAREFUL one of my guys (his first time) took the bolt off with the rear end out of the cart tapped it with a small hammer and it flew off and hit him in the chest he wasn't hurt and it was funny he learned a valuable lesson but those things are dangerous

[spriddle]

Originally Posted by 98kicker

BE CAREFUL one of my guys (his first time) took the bolt off with the rear end out of the cart tapped it with a small hammer and it flew off and hit him in the chest he wasn't hurt and it was funny he learned a valuable lesson but those things are dangerous

Try installing a torque spring and have that slip off after you have it compressed. Those things can be dangerous!