Secondary sheave

[sho305]

Here we go, the infamous grease zerk and the hub where I struck mine with a 3/4 rod. This is a G1, but same for G9/2.

[yamarancher]

Just get the correct puller and they come right off. put the spring in a vise and compress about 3/4 and put 3-4 zip ties on it and put it back on. works every time here !

[slonomo]

Originally Posted by sho305

No no, I said never use the sheave to get it off they break very easily. I would never hit one with a pencil even. I used a rod on the back side on the hub below where the belt runs, they are thick where the ramps are and do not seem to break there, plus it is against the outer sheave there. I hit right at the bottom of the ramps and no other place, iirc between the ramps is the only part of the 'hub' of it you can get on to. Much better to use a puller but I had to get one off my cart and didn't have a puller available. I had to lay under the rear bumper and rod against the trans just to get in there, it was a pain. Since I did it I'm just saying it is possible but not recommending it.

I'm sorry if I was not clear on not using any force on the sheaves (thinner part the belt runs on). Maybe I should just stop posting that procedure.

However if the sheave was worn bad they don't shift well anyway, and it is a great excuse to buy a cut sheave they work great will be getting one for mine. The sheaves get thinner as they wear and eventually get holes in them and one I did the whole outside of the sheave broke off while he was driving it. It ran really bad at that point he was just going next door, it would not go over 15mph or so either, was chewing up the belt too. it also had holes in the clutch through to the weight area. Parts were on order so he didn't care lol.

A taper needs to come apart with a puller, or a sharp blow can pop them off.

Sorry Sho, gotcha man!