Troubleshooting/testing an electric motor

[mrWizard]

I've got a 1975 Cushman 898110 cart, and am trying to see if the motor works.

I've got continuity (~.5 ohms) between A1&A2, and between S1&S2. I tried hooking the motor up to a 12V battery by shorting S1&A2, hooking S2 to the positive terminal and A1 to the negative. However, I just got arcing where I made the connections and the motor didn't spin. Have I made some error in my connections, or is there something wrong with my motor? Can any further testing be done?

[scottyb]

There will be arcing as the motor will immediately draw all available amperage when a direct connection is made. Use a battery disconnect switch to make the final connection, see pic.

[mrWizard]

That makes sense, thanks!

According to your link, the motor must be attached to the differential for safety reasons. Is it really necessary to present a load to the motor in this sort of test, or if I bolt the thing down and make sure nothing wraps around the output shaft is that sufficient? Again, thanks for the help.

[Epb]

The recommendation is leave it connected to the transaxle.

Fyi i got the spark and heat on an old motor = seized bearing in that motor. Replaced bearing and all was well.

Originally Posted by Epb

The recommendation is leave it connected to the transaxle.

this is a must as there is no support for armature when out of trans-axle.
it wil self destruct if "bench tested"
if scottyb's is not clear here is one we made a few years ago
scotty is correct that a battery disconnect switch should be used

motor test

WARNING you don't want to make a big spark anywhere near the battery.

jumper cables may be used
black clip on battery negative,
red clip on motor A1 post, tap the other ends together

[tag50]

Without the diff. attached, the end of the armature has no support. If the motor is fired up in that condition, you will be in the market for a new motor.

(CTD beat me to it, darn hunt and peck typing)
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