Gots power, clicks but no go - Taylor Dunn B-248

[PDSoCal]

Hi,

I was fortunate in that someone gave me this 1989 Taylor Dunn burden cart. It's built like a tank and looks to be in good shape, except I can't get it to move on its own. Unfortunately for me, I don't know a thing about golf carts, let alone this industrial model. So I'm hoping someone here can get me pointed in the right direction.


I've got a small nursery and this would be a perfect utility vehicle for me. I have two goals, obviously the first is to get it to run and second, put knobby tires on it so it can handle the dirt.

So far I've cleaned the batteries, charged them and get a full 6 volts out of each one.
After cleaning


As you can see from the photo of the dash, the hour meter is missing and charge level indicator has been replaced. I've already replaced the keyed ignition switch (they lost the key), and will replace the other two.
Under the dash


Under the front seat is the F/R switch mechanism and something mechanically attached to the accelerator pedal.

Close up of the accelerator switch.


Here's the back end



and a few close ups

I think this is the solenoid


So this is what happens:
When the key is in the ON position, brake off, in either reverse or forward and the accelerator pedal is pushed, I can hear a click at the solenoid and thats all that happens. No motion.

Any suggestions on troubleshooting? I have a millimeter, and need to get a continuity tester to figure out where the small gauge wires go. There are several under the dash just hanging. I'm assuming they go to the hour meter and wouldn't effect performance.

Also at the solenoid there are three wires that are cut. The cuts look to be old, they are indicated with the little red dots.


I wonder if they were cut because of the missing guages on the dash. This is the main reason I want to get a continuity tester, find out where these go. Any ideas on their purpose?

Thanks for looking at this post, and any suggestions will be most appreciated.

Pat

[Captain Michael]

Try not to assume anything. Start with the basics and make sure you have full voltage where it should. It will help as others join in to have the following info:
Each battery voltage - fully charged
Total battery voltage - fully charged

Check all of those "cut" wires and determine where they go and if connected on the other end and to what.

The theory is that the f/w switch tells a solenoid to close when the throttle is pressed. The solenoid allows voltage to flow toward the motor thru the controller. Just start at the beginning and eliminate what is working.

Hope this helps until somebody with more experience joins in.

[PDSoCal]

Originally Posted by Captain Michael

Try not to assume anything. Start with the basics and make sure you have full voltage where it should. It will help as others join in to have the following info:
Each battery voltage - fully charged
Total battery voltage - fully charged

Check all of those "cut" wires and determine where they go and if connected on the other end and to what.

The theory is that the f/w switch tells a solenoid to close when the throttle is pressed. The solenoid allows voltage to flow toward the motor thru the controller. Just start at the beginning and eliminate what is working.

Hope this helps until somebody with more experience joins in.

Thanks for the reply.

Each battery reads exactly the same, 6.3v. Checked all cells, fins are covered.


And combined, 37.9v


Tomorrow I'll trace all the loose wires.

Does it narrow it down any when the solenoid clicks when the accelerator is depressed, but no go?

[GLEEMO]

Yes I'm sure it does but U have several solenoids,
I'm assuming the main is clicking , but the first speed solenoid is not .
Do U have the Model number ?

NM its a B-248 ??

[PDSoCal]

Originally Posted by GLEEMO

Yes I'm sure it does but U have several solenoids,
I'm assuming the main is clicking , but the first speed solenoid is not .
Do U have the Model number ?

NM its a B-248 ??

I've seen the model number stated as "B2-48" or "B-248". It's a 36v.

Here's the schematic of the solenoid. Is this it in its entirety?


Thanks, Pat

[GLEEMO]

I thought the b-248 came in both 36 and 48 volt models ?

Where is the rest of the schematic ?

[clizbe1]

1st! Check the service battery and make sure terminals are cleen and is holding a FULL charge.

[PDSoCal]

Hit my frustration threshold (and way past the in over my head point) and scheduled a mobile tech from Cart Mart to come by and tell me whats wrong with it.

I think it's the accelerator module because I'm not getting a voltage reading when from one of the magnetic switches in the module when the accelerator pedal is depressed. Plus I found lots on comments that TD accelerator moduals have a high failure rate. THe switches are the red and black things:


I'll post the results of the service call.

[PDSoCal]

Well, I was wrong. It's the "PMC" controller. Tech shorted across the terminals and wheels started spinning. So now I gotta get it rebuilt. Part is a TD part #62-205-00. A new replacement part is around $800. This is the guy that don't work:



Anybody have a recommendation on who to have do the rebuild? I found a couple of sites online that claim to do rebuilds, PLCCenter.com and PSI-Repair.com? Any experience with either?

I also found out that the forward reverse switch is not a TD part, somebody put it in later. In the process I think that they cut the wires on the solenoid to accommodate the R/F switch. If it works why fix it.

Thanks

[barngal]

Hi Pat, wondering if you got your TD running? Did you have it worked on professionally?
I have one I haven't got started up yet, just wondering how yours went
thanks!