2009 Precedent...I think I blew something!

[sethchid]

Ok guys, I replaced the fuse, got everything put back together. Still have reverse buzzer, but still no solenoid click or movement. What next???

[Sergio]

That black/yellow wire is probably the stock negative wire that comes from the controller and provides the negative to the MCOR, Speed sensor and optional Battery indicator light.

It should go to the 9-pin connector behind the dash.

Set You meter to DC volts and measure the voltage from that wire to pack positive, if You don't get +48v (pack voltage), either the controller negative path is damaged or the sonic weld is damaged.

If that is the case, you may be able to connect that black/yellow wire to pack negative to back feed the negative to both the MCOR and Speed sensor.

The current return path does not need to be provided by the controller for either of those functions.

Edit: The correct pin on the IQ controller 16-pin connector where the negative originates is pin #13.

[sethchid]

The black/yellow to pack (+) is 13.8v, I checked it to pack (-) as well and I'm getting 34.8v. Pack voltage is 49.6v

[Sergio]

Does that black/yellow wire go to the 9-pin connector?

If your fluke meter has a low impedance setting (Lo-Z), use it for this measurement.

[sethchid]

Mine doesn't have that, it's a 1587 (1000V meggar). Yes it goes into the 9 pin connector, comes out connector as a white/black stripe. I hooked on to it behind the dash and started ohming it out. I get continuity from it to the top row of the 16 pin connector, 4th from the left (black/white stripe)

[Sergio]

That is it!

That is pin#13, the controller negative path has been damaged by the short.

Put a jumper from that black/yellow wire to pack negative, it should re-store the negative path to the MCOR and Speed sensor and hopefully fix the problem.

[sethchid]

BINGO!!!! Thanks guys for all the help

[sethchid]

One other issue I guess. As soon as I put the jumper on the pack negative the solenoid makes contact. Anything I can do to remedy this?

[Sergio]

Is the cart working?

Here is the bottom line:

Fuses are designed to prevent wires from catching fire, not to protect equipment, they take too long to open.

When the short first occurred, all of the current went through pin #13 on the controller and it took out the circuitry in that side of the controller.

Once that happened and until the fuse opened, the only other path for the current was through the MCOR into the +5v controller output.

It is hard to tell if anything else got damaged, but the controller should not be providing negative to the solenoid until it sees the MCOR close and throttle applied.

It also does not make sense You could get the reverse buzzer to go off before since it gets its power from the other side of the fuse that was blown, that is why I was wondering if there was any other wire modifications made to the cart.

[sethchid]

Yes, the card works. But as soon as I hook the negative wire up, the solenoid closes. I bought the cart from a construction company. There's no telling what was modified